A/F gauge going nuts
 

I installed a 2 gauge pod, Autometer A/F and Fuel Pressure gauges. Wired up the A/F gauge per instructions, and this things bounces all over the place like a crackhead on the rock! Sweeps from lean to rich like it was working as a disco light! Never remains in one area(lean, stoich, rich) for more than a second or two.
I checked the electrical connections, all good. Instructions say to connect the purple wire from the gauge to the PCM side purple wire of the connector. For you guys that have an A/F gauge, where is your wires connected? Red(power), black(ground) purple?????
Thanks guys!
Sneaks

mine does the same at low rpm. punch it & it should go to the current a/f reading. :cheers:

Did a search found this:

Narrow Band O2 Sensors began to appear on vehicles with the advent of fuel injection in the 1980’s. Their purpose was to monitor component degradation (i.e. fuel injectors, vacuum leaks) of vehicles as they accumulated miles. Their basic job was to let the computer know whether the vehicle was running at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 under idle (ideal ratio for gasoline engines), moderate acceleration, and cruise conditions, and if it wasn’t, to “trim” the injector pulse-width to either slightly lean or richen the engine. When the computer is paying attention to the input from the O2 sensor, the engine is operating in a “closed-loop” capacity. Under heavier acceleration or wide-open throttle the computer ignores the O2 sensor because it requires an air/fuel ratio other than 14.7:1, which is outside the design parameters of the sensor. This is known as “open-loop” operation. The sensor lets the computer know if the engine is running above or below 14.7:1 by sending voltage to the computer in a range between 0 and 1 volt, usually sweeping between the two extremes of this scale. Auto Meter’s traditional narrow-band air/fuel ratio gauges are simply a voltmeter for this signal. This can be seen by the repeated sweeping back and forth of the gauge in most idle, light throttle, and cruise conditions. To summarize, a narrow band O2 sensor is only able to tell a computer (or gauge, for that matter) whether an engine is operating above or below a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.

:squirrelrun:

Don't tell me you were too cheap to spring for the wideband.

Sneaks,

I've got a WB setup in the bottom drawer of my tool box complete with sensor.

Talk to me Johnny!

KM

good find,Wendy. :beer: I really don't care what my A/F is doing idling or cruising, but when I stomp that peddle with the juice on I will look at it [if I remember LOL] because that's when it matters. as long as I'm in the "green" I'm golden. :seeya:

The gauges came with the pod. What set-up did you go with Munch. :cheers:

Make, model, and what you want for it Kevin. Keep it up, and I'll have more of your extra parts than Damon does. :rofl:
Talk back to me brutha!
:thumbs:

Not likely.:nono::lolsmile:

What Wendy said is pretty much corrrect. :yesnod:

A 0-1volt narrowband 02 sensor is only accurate at stoich (14.7:1 afr). Outside of that point, it can tell lean or rich, but because it becomes pegged not far away in either direction, it is pretty much useless as a gauge.

A 0-5 volt wideband is generally accurate between the "wider" 10:1 and 20:1 afr window. It functions the same way, just with more resolution.

:cheers:

I'm working on it. :dance: :rofl:

AEM and you know I'll make you a deal you can't refuse.:seeya:

:rofl: I can't afford a wideband!

I will get one once I get my nitrous kit though. I have started selling off a few toys to supplement the fund so hopefully I will be fast and furious by the end of summer, just in time for the cold roads and no traction.

You just need to find the right friend with one laying in his toolbox. :rofl:

WKMCD as the "Godfather".:D

He's only half the man Marlon Brando was. Literally! :rofl: