{ How To } Reloading center fire pistol ammo
 

EDIT
Before starting with cartridge of choice, SORT by both caliber and then by primer size.
.38 and .357 are the same diameter and only differ in length. Do NOT load .38 caliber cases to .357 loads.
.45 acp can have either small or large primer pockets

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Here's step by step instruction ( with pics ) on how to load center fire ammo. I'm doing .357 plinking ammo . The press is a single stage RCBC Rock Chucker, part of the Master Kit I got about 17 years ago.

No cliffs, details are too important to skim over. Also, safety glasses would be good to wear at all times.


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Above is the once fired cases, a set of reloading dies and in the orange case, shell holders.

Notice the titanium ring on the left die. If you have titanium nitride or carbide insert resizing dies, you do NOT have to lube the cases for resizing.

Pick the correct size shell holder ( from the chart and place that in the press ram. Screw in the resizing die until it almost touches and resize you cases.

Check for overall length after resizing. Trim and deburr if necessary.

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Next step is to make a slight bell in the case opening. All you need is just enough for the bullet to start. The left and middle cases are belled while the right case is resized only.

Also during this time, check your cases for any defects ( cracks etc ).
If in doubt, throw it out :yes: ( like the case below- the end looks funny and it got tossed)

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Using a primer pocket brush, clean the primer pocket to remove any burnt residue from the previous primer.

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Above is the easiest way I've found to load the primer tool. Open pack to the required amount ( I usually do no more than 50 primers myself ), place the tray over it and while holding them together, turn it over. Remove primer package and make sure all are facing the correct way ( explosive primer compound UP ).
( note-these are large pistol primers which are not correct for .357 cases-- I primed some .44 mag cases )

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After you have verified the correct powder, weight of charge for the bullet weight, throw and adjust the charge until it weighs correctly on the scale.

I have found the best way to get a more consistent charge on my powder throw is to "click" the handle twice ( lightly ) where it picks up the powder charge.

I put the primed, bell case under the powder throw and place a charge. I check ever 10th charge on the scale. If it varies , I dump those previous 10 and do it again.

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I always work from one tray to another. My primed, belled cases are in the blue tray. I pick one up, place it under the powder throw, place and charge and it goes in the wooden tray. This way if they are handled, they get powder. :thumbs:

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Look into each and every case for the same powder level. If it doesn't look right, dump the powder back in the powder throw and do it again. A missing/light charge could lodge a bullet in the barrel and the next round fired could blow up the gun. A double charge could blow up the gun in your hands. Neither is a good thing :nono:

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Now you will be seating bullets. The main die section height controls the crimping of the bullet and the threaded portion controls the bullet height ( and overall length)

Too much crimp with smash/crinkle the case and not enough crimp will let the bullet move in the case. In the case of a revolver, too light a crimp will allow the bullet during the firing of the other rounds and it may jam the cylinder ( keep it from turning )

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Here we are after loading 50 rounds

Be safe, have fun and enjoy
Jeff

Jeff,

How much does it cost to get started from scratch? Say, 9mm to start.

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:D

I started with a RCBS single stage press "starter kit" and added a few extras as I went along.

Here's the RCBS starter kit I began with on sale for $300
Cabela's: RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit

To that you would need to add a set of carbide dies ( brand new $45-$70 depending on caliber ), a set of shell holders ( $5-$7 for one ) plus powder ( $20-$30 a pound ) plus empty cases and bullets .
Primers----you need primers too.

The master kit has pretty much everything you'd need except those items listed which are specific to you. Dies , shell holders plus other items can be purchased used at some of your local gun shops.

Dies usually do not wear out but take a bright light with you to look for scratches in the inside of the die. Any scratches in the die will transfer to the case and could cause a weak point.

If you are strictly a pistol guy, a Dillon Progressive reloader would be a good investment.

Thanks. So how much per round would it cost to reload, assuming I got the brass for free?

There are 7000 grains in one pound of powder.
AA #7 powder is $18 a pound

Small CCI pistol primers are $32 per 1000

Berry's plated bullet ( cheaper than premium bullet--lead with copper plating )
$22 per 250

So a middle of the book load uses 8 grains of that powder at a cost of .02

A primer would be just over .03

a bullet would be just under .09


.14 a round with free brass and your time

Pays for itself pretty dang fast!

Hey, Jeff,

Great minds think alike. I just came upstairs from the man cave where I loaded 150 rds of .38 spl with another 150 in the tumbler awaiting my ministrations.

In the last 45 days, I've handloaded 600 .45 Colt and 200 .44 Mag Personnel Suppressor DeLuxes, and 1,100 various .30-06 Sprg, .308 Win, .25-06 Rem and .223 Rem. Handloading really makes the shooting hobby more complete.

Yesterday I put together three boxes of .30-06 for hunting: 1 of 168gr CT Ballistic Silvertip, 1 of Nosler 168gr Ballistic Tip and 1 of Barnes 168gr TSX. I am well and truly set for deer and elk season, though one of my pals is trying to get me to do a muzzle loader season for each. I've been toying with trying black powder for CAS, so......

Next weekend, I'm going to make some more .308 Win match loads (RL-15 and 168gr SMKs over CCI BR2 primers) and am toying with going to Camp Perry this year.

Stay tuned,

Har3.14159ry

Ohhhhh, I see .30-06 and 168 gr bullets. Do you have any RL-22 powder?

I shoot 165 BT with RL22 powder out of my Rem 760 GameMaster. Not only is it fast, it's extremely accurate. I can get just under 3/4" group out of my pump action rifle at 100 yards. ( bagged on a bench )

Do you have any Nosler reloading books?

I use RL-15 for .308 and have had great results with IMR4895 in .30-06. I made up 5 test loads with the Noslers last week to test...I got 1 ragged hole of 0.4" with IMR 4895, next best with IMR 4064 (still <1") and shyte-type results with IMR 4831 and IMR 4350. I had filled 60 cases with IMR 4831 (I've had great results out of my .25-06 with that) and dumped 'em back in the can and went with IMR 4895. I'm now down to nothing on IMR 4895, switching to H4895 and reducing loads by 0.4gr...stay tuned.

I use the Nosler 6th ed....if I can help you, shoot me a note. I also use Lyman 49th, Hornady 7th and Barnes xth (I forget but can look). I also use loaddata.com and always check my loads against two independent sources. (BTW, I use SR 4756 and HS-6 for .38 Spl). Delighted to give you cross references.

Be well.

Harry

I have Nosler editions 3 & 4. I can take a picture of the pages listing that load. It's a compressed load and shoots great ( but do NOT use it in your M1 Garand as the pressure curve is wrong for that semi automatic design )

Good Primer with nice pictures! :thumbs:

You are being very careful with the primers, and that should be noted by anyone starting out. Primers do not look like much, but they are very dangerous and should not be taken lightly. Keep them in the tray until you are ready to use them and do not put them together loosely, except in a primer tray :explode:

I like ball powder in pistols because it is easier to measure out accurately. :cheers:

Dick.:D

I was trying to hit the "thanks" button and it took me a minute to realize I already had.:rofl:

Thanks for you help via PM...scouring for some used equipment now, otherwise I'll buy new.

When I brought the rifle reloading thread back up, I saw that Uncle Pervey had thanked me plus had copied the thread to military rifle forum too :sadangel:

Ended up just buying all my reloading equipment today..couldn't wait.

I ended up with the "Kempf Kit" Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Press (highly recommended from GlockTalk)

Kempf Kit w/ Lee Classic Turret Press

It comes with a carbide set of dies, Six MTM 50 round Plastic Ammo Boxes, Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure (+ $12.95 upgrade) and the Lee Safety Primer System (Large and Small)

I also ordered their tumbler combo which comes with 3lbs of their own media concoction and a sifter.

Kinetic Bullet Puller
A set of .40S&W/10mm Carbide Dies
Extra 4 Hole Turret

$373.73 to my door.

I also ordered a electronic caliper and digital scale from Amazon...I cheaped out a bit there, but they had a solid 4 star rating with multiple reviews. When money permits I will upgrade those.

Those were $41.18 shipped.

So now I just need to find some bullets, primers, powder and keep saving some brass up. My dad and I are going to be build a reloading bench as well.

I'm excited.

Congrats :seasix:

You mentioned a bench, here's a "paint" drawing I drew up for another person who wanted to build their own bench but didn't have an overabundance of room. It's based on my bench which is 6'6" long and 30" deep. I have a smooth solid core door as my top. Since a comfortable working height is important, I build mine so it's about 3" below my belt.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...o/DCP_1660.jpg


The paint drawing of a shorter bench
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The red uprights are 4x4's, the green are 2x4's laying flat and brown are 2x4's upright.

The flat 2x4s are screwed into the top of the 4x4s and the upright 2x4s make the outer frame. Another set of 2x4s are screw into the insides of the 4x4s and covered with plywood to make a shelf.

By having the 2x4's flat with the top surface, you can attach the benchtop from underneath so you do NOT have any crevices to trap gunpowder.

The shelving is made from 5/4 x 8 white pine and attaches to each end of the 2x4s below the table level. The center support just sits there.

Make sure you put a plate under your press to make sure it's secure
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g/DCP_4787.jpg

Probably going to develop this bench...there is a link in the beginning of where he got the plans and modified it to his needs

DIY Ammunition Reloading Bench

The only suggestion is to add an addition bracing/board in the center of the opening so make the top even more stable.

If you start single stage reloading military brass,you will have to swag the primer pockets. You need a sturdy table for that. ( swag means to form the primer to a specific size , to remove the primer pocket crimp the military mandates. )