Not something you see everyday!
 

‘72 on a Used car lot.

350 automatic someone can surely sink some time and money on!

But would it be worth the time and money if there's no sentimental value attached to it?

Exactly. Very easy to sink 30-50k into that car (pain alone would be most of 30k) that would be worth about 30k at the end of the day. You should do something useful for a change and find out the asking price. Zeek would.

No

Don't try to lowball them. They know what they have.

You love to hate me don’t you, you just can’t avoid anything I type!!!:lol:

This car is not a money maker, even if it was free! But like my thread title says this is not something you see every day!

:rofl:

So you’re suggesting I send in Zeek first?:confused5::rofl:

I would only consider if the headlamps still pop up!!

I wouldn't consider it if it was free and came with a BJ from a hot porn star.

She would be picking headboard splinters off her forehead for months if I met up with her!!

The rolls is the real money pit :yesnod:

That year the brakes alone would bankrupt 75% of people on joes monthly stipance .

If that was the offer, I would at least take it for a test drive.

Which one? :D

LT-1 hood... wonder if its still in there (or ever was)?

I will tell you what i see every day multiple threads that you do.

Either BB or LT-1 had that hood. According to the VIN, it’s a small block.

Whichever was cheapest, or free!!

:iagree:

Texting can be harmful while driving in downpours!!!!

Just for shits and giggles, what is the asking price?

I’ve completely resorted a ‘72. Learned volumes! Lost 10k but drove it 24k miles as a daily. Took it around Lowe’s Motor Speedway, etc. All in all, it was great, but this car looks like it has some serious rust problems. That alone, makes me pass, at any price.
There were several Rolls on the lot.
The owner of the lot wasn’t there, shop kids could not answer…

Talk about being upside down after restoring a C3 turd. :rofl:

I'm betting that the original engine is long gone.

Is the birdcage rusty?

I worry.

:iagree:

Don’t worry. It will all work out in the end. If only your end would arrive….:D


Yes rust at the A pillar to windshield lower frame. Shoulda got a pic…. Doors were locked and the hood was half stuck. Couldn't even check for the trim tag…

If frame is good, I'd pay $7k

Well if it was a real LT1, I would look at it closely.

Another notorious rust area is the birdcage area around the T-tops.

See post 19 I think it was.

The letter, “K” in the 5th digit of the VIN Tag on the “A” Pilar indicates small block. If the cars was an LT-1 you'd expect to read “L”. And iirc a Big Block reads “W”. (Without checking the book). Here I struggled to get a picture….

You'd save a lot of grief simply setting fire to the 7k.


Rickles DELIVERS with a viable photo. I take back all the bad things I said about you. You ROCK. :seasix:

Time to pull the plug on this one. :angel:

Wasn't there a LT1 emblem on the hood from the factory?

It's Philadelphia. That's what all cars in that shithole city look like.

Not enough info really…..couldn’t see shit…..
A decal only would differentiate the BB (w/454 metal letters) vs. the LT-1
That’s a pretty ignorant statement. Some of the best cars ever found were in garages within Philadelphia. City limits:yesnod:

If body has no damage and frame is good, this could be made a decent driver for under $15k in repair/restoration.

VB Dance Party!!!!!!!



Admit it....how many H-Town peeps went to Numbers back in the day? Sam's Boat? Club 6400? J. Larkins, for the Clear Lake set?

Looks like a parts car to me.

Nope. Decal.....

Body damage no biggie. Fiberglass is easy to repair; the car in my avatar had 27 stress cracks in the body, less the hood which was so bad I replaced it... for $60.00. If that car has a solid frame and cage I could turn it into a nice driver for 10K or less. Probably take me 5 years, just like my last one.

Appears to be quite the inventory. Both the Vette and the Rolls next to it look rougher than a night in jail.

I was skeptical, until I saw it had original side pipes. Now I AM IN!

[QUOTE=LATB;2241210]Looks like a parts car to me.[/QUOT

:iagree:EXACTLY

Put another 35k in it and you just spent 42k for a 30k car

I don't know to do bodywork, so, any body repair would be expensive for me.
I can do everything mechanically as well as interior restoration. I have done it before on C3's. If car isn't matching numbers, I go with custom aftermarket stuff for the restoration. I have a ton of C3 parts in my garage from all the C3's that I owned. I know every part on those cars and how to work on them.

If you can't do your own work and if you go for a high end paint job.

I'm not usually going for show car finish. I like a nice, presentable paint job, fresh interior and reliable powertrain. I don't restore to factory specs. Many aftermarket parts available. I would never spend the money to do a frame off restoration. There are cheap ways to fix up a C3 and expensive ones.

Girl on top moar bettah.

:iagree:
Paint & chrome & wheels = 10K
Interior and misc =10K
Engine & engine bay & suspension/brakes/exhaust etc = 10K
Contingency =5K

I got my old show car '72 up north yet, just outside expensive Wash DC ....and in that region, prices are a good bit higher than elsewhere....but in the early 90's the car was only 20 years old, and was an old show car.....so well taken care of for about 7500 bux, convertible too boot.....with hardtop.....

So over the last ~30 years it has endured two very minor accidents....one of which I actually made money on....and got the entire car repainted GREEN metallic......yes the rugs show wear and age now, but the plastic looks decent....and so there is NOTHING STOCK from wheels through roof....except the chrome bumpers.....I may have as much as 15k into it, but that's the total......not bad for a DD lasting some 32? years.....

The '81 that I had for three years had nut sack brown plastic interior. Remove, clean, matching rattle can paint made it all look brand new. The key to painting textured plastic is to apply a single very thin coat....

You can get chinese rear bumpers for very little..
Rechroming on front bumper should be under $1k
Unless dash is cracked, it can be refurbished.
Carpet can be found pretty inexpensive. I usually get 80 - 82 type seats for cheap on ebay and get the foam recovered with vinyl covers.
If gauges are broken, I'd go with autometer gauges. I can make them fit.. They also look great.. Had Autometer Phantom gauges in my race C3 and they looked awesome. If the car is not matching numbers, no reason not to go slightly custom on the interior. I don't see spending more than $3k on the interior total and it would be very nice.
Chevy crate engines are fairly inexpensive and I could drop it in myself. Same goes for transmissions. Chevy parts aren't too expensive.
You can get C3 calipers for cheap at Advance Auto Parts. Not a big expense.
$1600 for stainless sidemount headers and side pipes.

Suspension can be fixed up for under $2k.. New fiberglass rear spring, front springs and shocks. Trailing arm rebuild.


My total if body is good:
$4k paint
$1.5k chrome
$2k interior
$2k suspension
$200 brakes
$1600 exhaust (stainless sidepipes)
Engine and transmission are a questionmark because if the car is running and driving, it may be possible to clean up the engine and use the current engine and transmission. You can pick up a crate engine pretty cheap if you don't need 400+ Horsepower. Tons of TH350 and TH400 transmissions on Ebay.. Not a major expense unless you want to build your car for performance. For a driver, you don't need to spend $$$$ on engine and transmission.

Home built "my way"
Complete drive train and suspension $5k
Body, paint, refurb original rallys, weatherstripping $1500
Interior $1500
Tires, fluids, incidentals $1k
Miles of smiles for less than a used Subaru.

200 screaming horses!!!

I’m not doing any of that.