got the green light to do a cam swap in the vette. shopping questions

[Montehall]

Going with a Lunati 10120701LK. This cam is 213/219 at .050, .454/.468 on the lift, and it is cut on a 112 LSA with a 108 intake centerline.
I'm still using stock 1.5 rockers, I'll have to tally my final budget before I decide on going up to 1.6 rollers.
It comes with lifters.

So far, I know I'll also need:
Assembly Lube; I was going to get the Lucas Oil stuff
Gasket for the intake manifold, water pump, and?

What else?

[MrPeabody]

Why do you do this to yourself?

J/K. Best of luck with the project. Sorry I have no technical advice to contribute. My last cam project was in 1969.

[VITE1]

I'd reach out to EG . He does this stuff for a living.

[69camfrk]

What are your other mods gonna be? I'm assuming it is an LS engine. Just a cam is great, but if you are significantly increasing lift/duration, etc. the cam is a waste unless you can provide the air flow.:seasix:

[Steve Austin]

Thats a very mild street cam. It will work well in a near stock motor. If you are looking for a big jump in power that you can feel, you may be let down. Gears in the diff will give you some bang for the buck. If you want some power you can feel, it takes the whole a cam and heads and compression package.

[CertInsaneC5]

What they said. ^^^ Just a Cam is not going to cut it. If the heads won't flow for what you are doing, as well as the exhaust. Don't bother. Specs are needed here.

Not saying, not to do it. But we need current engine specs to give you real advice. :cert: :waiting:

[Montehall]

Carb converted 84 with a gm crate 350 out of an RV
Otherwise stock

VEHICLE INFORMATION
Vehicle Year: 1984
Vehicle Make: Chevrolet
Vehicle Model: Corvette
Vehicle Weight: 3020 lbs
Vehicle Transmission: Manual
Transmission Stall Speed:
Vehicle Transmission Model: 4+3 Doug Nash Vehicle Gear Ratio: 3.07 Tire
Height: 255/50/16 Vehicle Intended Use: Street Performance Vehicle
Requires Inspection: No

ENGINE INFORMATION
Engine Year: 1996
Engine Manufacturer: GMgoodwrench 10066036 Engine Factory Cubic Inches:
350 Engine Current Cubic Inches: 350 Engine Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Piston Bore Diameter: 4"
Connecting Rod Length:
Crankshaft Stroke: 3.47"
Desired RPM Range From: 1000
Desired RPM Range To: 5500

INDUCTION
Intake Manifold Type: GM Cast Iron 4bbl
Ported Cylinder Heads: No

CYLINDER HEADS
Cylinder Head Manufacturer: GM
Cylinder Head Material: Cast Iron
Head Runner Volume: 76cc
Intake Valve Size: 1.94
Exhaust Valve Size: 1.5
Ported Heads: No
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1
Adjustable Valvetrain: No
Maximum Valve Lift Capacity:

FUEL DELIVERY
Fuel Delivery System Type: Carbureted
Fuel Injector Or Carb Size: 800cfm qjet
Fuel Type: Pump Gas Unleaded
Fuel Octane Rating: 87

POWER ADDERS
Super Charger: No
Super Charger Type: Centrifugal
Supercharger Boost Amount:
Turbo Charger: No
Turbo Charger Count: One
Turbo Charger Size:
Turbo Boost Amount:
Nitrous: No
Nitrous Amount:
Nitrous Stages:

CURRENT SETUP
Current Cam Manufacturer: GM
Current Intake Duration: 194
Current Exhaust Duration: 202
Current Advertised Intake Duration:
Current Advertised Exhaust Duration:
Current Intake Valve Lift: .383
Current Exhaust Valve Lift: .401
Current Lobe Separation: 112

[69camfrk]

With that info, I don't think the money spent will be worth it. You can have a lopey cam, but, that is as far as it goes. It won't give you much of a seat in the pants kick. I don't know how much research you have done, but I would google it. Of course you may have already, and see what kind of combinations have worked for people to get gains you can actually feel. There are so many good cylinder heads out there that don't cost a fortune, it is definitely something you want to look into.

[CertInsaneC5]

It's a truck engine. Without good flowing heads, that cam is useless. The exhaust will likely need upgraded as well.

[Rob]

That 112Lsa will give it a nice lope but if you want to put some power on the ground make sure you put on some long tubes and a good intake to get the air in there.

[Montehall]

It's a truck engine. Without good flowing heads, that cam is useless. The exhaust will likely need upgraded as well.
I have dual exhaust with headers. Car had those when I got it...

The car is a good driver, I'm just looking to get a little bit more out of it without making it too harsh

Heck the current setup drove from Houston to Buffalo without an issue

[Rob]

Might go ahead and change out the springs while you are in there as well as a new thermostat.

[Montehall]

The next step up seems like a big jump

Lift:*.468''/.489''Duration:*262 Deg /268 DegLSA:*112 DegRPM Range:*1400-5800


The other was recommended to by the Lunati techs

[Montehall]

Would i see more for the money by swapping the rockers for 1.6 rollers instead of a new cam?

[Steve Austin]

I dont think your heads will make power beyond 5200 RPM. The bigger cam will sound more racey but probably not make much more power, if any. That cam will work better with more compression. :cert:

[69camfrk]

With a RV motor, it should have some heavy duty parts, but to make it all work, will require a number of things. Don't just do the cam. You will be like WTF after all the work.

[CertInsaneC5]

With a RV motor, it should have some heavy duty parts, but to make it all work, will require a number of things. Don't just do the cam. You will be like WTF after all the work.

:iagree:

[Montehall]

to be fair, it's not an RV engine.... it was a GM Goodwrench 260HP (http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Performance/GM-Goodwrench-350ci-260HP-Engine-Packages/752506/10002/-1) crate motor that was put in an RV.
The dude paid for the engine swap, but the RV rotted out, and he sold me the whole thing for $300. Engine only had 6000 miles on it when I swapped it into the vette.

He's our neighbor in Indiana.

I just saw that the exact same engine is available from Chevy Performance with a only a different cam and is 290hp Chevrolet Performance 12499529, Chevrolet Performance 350ci/290HP Engine & Package | Chevrolet Performance (http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12499529/10002/-1) which is what had me going for just a cam

I appreciate the advice... my wife already bought me that cam and stuff from JEGS, I'll just return and spend some money fixing up the interior or something.

[CertInsaneC5]

Go fast stuff is never cheap. I wanted to do the same thing you were thinking about. Just a cam. On a LS1 motor. I thought I was going to get off with about 1k in parts/labor. Then there is the tune. Another $300.

Wasn't satisfied with the power boost. New heads 5K. Another tune. $300.

Long story short. 30K later. I got want I wanted. Then the recession hit. Hope to be able to race it this year. :cert:

[69camfrk]

to be fair, it's not an RV engine.... it was a GM Goodwrench 260HP (http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Performance/GM-Goodwrench-350ci-260HP-Engine-Packages/752506/10002/-1) crate motor that was put in an RV.
The dude paid for the engine swap, but the RV rotted out, and he sold me the whole thing for $300. Engine only had 6000 miles on it when I swapped it into the vette.

He's our neighbor in Indiana.

I just saw that the exact same engine is available from Chevy Performance with a only a different cam and is 290hp Chevrolet Performance 12499529, Chevrolet Performance 350ci/290HP Engine & Package | Chevrolet Performance (http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12499529/10002/-1) which is what had me going for just a cam

I appreciate the advice... my wife already bought me that cam and stuff from JEGS, I'll just return and spend some money fixing up the interior or something.

Just my .02, but I think you are making a wise decision. My motto is, "Money buys speed, so how fast can you afford to go"? The crate motor I has a cast crank, pistons, etc. and the heads have small valves. The only redeeming point is that it is a 4 bolt main block. That said, if you want the car to rock, just start building a motor a piece at a time until it comes together. There are many combinations out there that won't completely break the bank, but get you down the road in a hurry.:seasix:

[Kerrmudgeon]

Better to return the stuff, because you'll be really disappointed in any gains you make with the current setup. Intake and carb would be the first things i'd be swapping out. If you did that AND a new roller cam you'd see a big seat of the pants difference. :thumbs:

[Montehall]

are we positive that I'll not see a useful gain? the box is sitting here in my living room... just wanted to make one more check before I sent it back... and pay for return shipping

[Stangkiller]

are we positive that I'll not see a useful gain? the box is sitting here in my living room... just wanted to make one more check before I sent it back... and pay for return shipping

Cam only without heads, exhaust and intake? Yes probably only minimal gains. Hell when I went cam only in the coupe I went from 348 to 378rwhp, and I already had a full exhaust and intake, more noticeable than the power was the car was quite a bit louder after the cam, I suspect most of that power pick up was as much due to the tune as it was the cam.

[Montehall]

Cam only without heads, exhaust and intake? Yes probably only minimal gains. Hell when I went cam only in the coupe I went from 348 to 396rwhp, and I already had a full exhaust and intake, more noticeable than the power was the car was quite a bit louder after the cam, I suspect most of that power pick up was as much due to the tune as it was the cam.
the exhaust is true duals with headers. but yeah, intake is a cast iron Qjet and heads are stock 76cc

[Kerrmudgeon]

the exhaust is true duals with headers. but yeah, intake is a cast iron Qjet and heads are stock 76cc

See if you can swap the cam for an intake/carb setup and get the thing breathing better. Those headers are stopped up at the top end right now. If you get the charge in and out faster, you'll notice the difference.:drivingskid:

[Montehall]

fine... you guys win.
back it goes.

[Fastguy]

fine... you guys win.
back it goes.

You are working on a typical small block Chevy, there isn't a lot of mystery to the combo as it has been built thousands of times.
The Q -Jet IF TUNED PROPERLY is an awesome carb, but you are going to have a hard time finding a decent spread bore aluminum intake.
The cam is a good idea AFTER the intake and carb have been replaced.
That motor would be fine with Holley 600 vacuum secondary on an Edelbrock airgap intake. You can get the combo kits for around $500. You can buy those Summit brand cam kits for around $100 that come with cam and lifters. You'll also want to replace the timing chain set while you are in there.

[Montehall]

problem is I can't fit an air gap without cutting a hole in the hood. Even an 1101 makes the air cleaner contact the hood. the current GM stock intake has the air cleaner bolt rubbing a hole in the hood.

[mrvette]

I would stay away from ANY aftermarket cams.....I dunno who ground/supplied them but anything from TPIS Chaska Minn. is junk.....lasts about a year then get THIS shit.....I had a intermittent rough idle....mostly rough as a cob, then once in a while smooth as silk.....at higher RPM it was seemingly fine....DPFI L98 back then.....

how in living HELL a CAM can give an intermittent rough idle is just a mystery....

BUT when changing to a stock L98 cam the entire engine settled down and been fine for years now......

it's a 355 roller engine with a variety of heads trying to find the problem, and finally went with stock L98 #113 currently has a LT1 on top with HEI in back....off a ~94 so yeh, it's modified.....

:issues::issues::issues: I battled that damn idle problem for some 5 years....damn junk aftermarket crap......:issues::leaving:

[Kerrmudgeon]

Post up a pic of your air cleaner. You definitely need a drop base Corvette style cleaner to get it low enough for the hood. AND, if the stud in the carb is too long and rubbing a hole in the hood, change the stud. It just unscrews.

Here's a pics of a drop base so you can see. You should have one already, but notice the stud doesn't have to be any longer that to stick out of the lid a few threads for the wing nut to go on......
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm77/Braswell_Carb/AirCleaner2.jpg

[Fastguy]

Unfortunately, a drop base is what I had to run on my big block 70, along with a banjo fitting. If the air gap won't fit, there are a ton of shorter intakes. I ran an Offenhauser on my 75 and even used the factory air cleaner.

[Fastguy]

I would stay away from ANY aftermarket cams.....I dunno who ground/supplied them but anything from TPIS Chaska Minn. is junk.....lasts about a year then get THIS shit.....I had a intermittent rough idle....mostly rough as a cob, then once in a while smooth as silk.....at higher RPM it was seemingly fine....DPFI L98 back then.....

how in living HELL a CAM can give an intermittent rough idle is just a mystery....

BUT when changing to a stock L98 cam the entire engine settled down and been fine for years now......

it's a 355 roller engine with a variety of heads trying to find the problem, and finally went with stock L98 #113 currently has a LT1 on top with HEI in back....off a ~94 so yeh, it's modified.....

:issues::issues::issues: I battled that damn idle problem for some 5 years....damn junk aftermarket crap......:issues::leaving:

Far more likely that you had a bad electrical connection that was corrected upon re-assembly than having the only known case in the history of automobiles of an intermittent cam.

[Steve Austin]

I vote with the send it back gang. The heads you have are killing the power. :cert:

[Montehall]

Post up a pic of your air cleaner. You definitely need a drop base Corvette style cleaner to get it low enough for the hood. AND, if the stud in the carb is too long and rubbing a hole in the hood, change the stud. It just unscrews.

Here's a pics of a drop base so you can see. You should have one already, but notice the stud doesn't have to be any longer that to stick out of the lid a few threads for the wing nut to go on......
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm77/Braswell_Carb/AirCleaner2.jpg
it's just a 14 or 9 inch round filter, 2 inch height
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/C4/2011-03-12_14-07-18_717.jpg

[The_Dude]

fine... you guys win.
back it goes.

My '80 had the stock 350 with headers, Edelbrock Performer and a Comp 268H cam and it ran much better than stock. If you already have headers, an Edelbrock Performer is pretty cheap and will fit under the hood just fine.