3K RWHP Z06 Wreck @ 190mph - Sulphur Springs, TX

[Uncle Meat]

He may have a bit too much power. :D

NAW! Just not enough tire is all!

U.M.

3,000 horsepower Z06 catches some air at 190 mph - YouTube

[Olustee bus]

So much pure stupidity in that video.

[Datawiz]

Looks like he needs a few more aero bits to keep that thing on the ground.

[RonC5]

That wasn't as bad as one would expect.

[Bill]

I wonder how many minutes that engine will last until it grenades?

[Hoog]

Looks like the guy didn't know where what he was after...was.

[RedLS1GTO]

So you get it rolling and then dump 2K+ horsepower to a short wheelbase car....

Golly gee, I never would have expected that it would just blow the tires off and end up going a direction that you didn't want it to go.

At least they did a good job with the chute. :rofl:

Idiots.

[racer313g]

"Can Joe drive it or I drive it, I don't know"

Guess that question was answered pretty quick....:slap:

[island14]

Wile E. Coyote: Wile E. Rocket Ride Online Game (http://www.dan-dare.org/FreeFun/Games/CartoonsMoviesTV/WileECoyote.htm)

:D

[69camfrk]

"Can Joe drive it or I drive it, I don't know"

Guess that question was answered pretty quick....:slap:

I'll take "They can't drive it" for a thousand Alex!!!:lol:

[Strats-N-Vettes]

So much pure stupidity in that video.



:iagree:

[boracayjohnny]

Spend 3 years building a car only to put skinny tires on the wheels and an amateur driver in the seat...

:iagree::Jeff '79:

See him digging above and behind his head and then actually turning his head and looking for the handle? Yea, that's another of the many well thought out parts of the car/driving the car.

I also agree with Tim, Wile Coyote like a mofo.

[markids77]

Hey, any landing you can walk away from is good, right?

[boracayjohnny]

Hey, any landing you can walk away from is good, right?

:lol:

That mofo used up his winning lottery ticket chances for the next, oh I don't know, 100 years. :D

[69camfrk]

Not that I'm an engineer by any stretch, but some folks don't have a concept of basic physics. And as already said, they obviously have never watched drag racing. Speed, air flow, high/low pressures, well they invite an object to fly. Hell, I could put a jet engine on a bi plane and it would haul ass for a minute right before the structure failed. Those guys were waaaay too focused on horsepower, but no way to keep it on the ground. Dummies....

[8Up]

sitting way too high not to catch air. you dont need 3000 hp to go 190 in those cars. But if you're going to, you better do something other than just pour a bunch of horses in the engine and hope for the best. Must have had money to burn is all I can think. Didnt say what he expected his top speed would be or what he was trying to reach, kind of matters if you dont plan on eating the trees at the end of the runway.

[ApexOversteer]

The quest for the 300mph street car standing mile is going to destroy the sport of mile racing when they start killing drivers and spectators...

[boracayjohnny]

Right?! You're watching this thinking, "Did you spend every minute of that build on the engine? Did you not turn on ESPN to watch 10 minutes of drag racing and realize how incomplete the rest of that build was?"

Exactly. I'm more of a pro racer than that guy because I've watched three NHRA races on tv. :D

[Mirroredshades]

Mad props for driving it back to the pits after that.

:cert:



Looks like the guy didn't know where what he was after...was.


Yeah, um, well. Reaching behind you for something you cant find, then turning around to look for it, at 190, is maybe not the best setup.

Move the controls to the dash, within reach of the driver, for whatever the hell he was trying to do.


:slap:

[Mirroredshades]

:iagree::Jeff '79:

See him digging above and behind his head and then actually turning his head and looking for the handle? Yea, that's another of the many well thought out parts of the car/driving the car.

I also agree with Tim, Wile Coyote like a mofo.



It looks like when he turned all the way around to look in the trunk, he yanked the steering wheel which caused the wreck. Car might have been fine if not for the poor placement of the controls.

[Chuck A]

very insane, indeed

[Fastguy]

Car goes where eyes go.

Never will you see controls in a race car behind the driver's head, ever.

[RedLS1GTO]

Yeah, um, well. Reaching behind you for something you cant find, then turning around to look for it, at 190, is maybe not the best setup.

Move the controls to the dash, within reach of the driver, for whatever the hell he was trying to do.


:slap:

Pretty sure he was reaching for the chute.

...that ripped itself off of the car as soon as it was released (@1:03 in the video). :rofl:

That's some quality construction right there...

[VetteBoy1979]

Dude in Houston who owns a welding company decided he had the knowledge to open a speed shop. After he had multiple other shops build and work on his car first. Similar to 75% of shops today. All hat, no cattle....but they don't mind taking your money!

[Kerrmudgeon]

Looks like he barely fit in that cockpit, never mind be able to move to grab the chute handle. Get a thinner pilot for that thing.
Every time he got on the throttle, it would spin....pretty poor planning. :drivingskid:

[BADRACR1]

The quest for the 300mph street car standing mile is going to destroy the sport of mile racing when they start killing drivers and spectators...

You notice the car passing by after he stopped?
On the positive side it stayed top up and drove away.

[island14]

Car goes where eyes go.

Never will you see controls in a race car behind the driver's head, ever.

Well we did this time! :Jeff '79:


But I agree, all controls need to be in front where you can reach them. :D


http://freeshopmanual.com/uploads/photos/Real-Racer.jpg

[Stangkiller]

Kelly is the same guy who lost that Camaro at the TX mile a while back if i'm not mistaken... That was one sick car...speed costs...how fast do you want to spend? The driver suffered a broken rib but was otherwise ok.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k7/flash2001/kpcamaro_zpsf18bc9f0.jpg

[Datawiz]

Give me a list of bolts and such that are not reusable so I can get them ordered from GM. Obviously the crank pulley bolt is a stretch bolt and needs to be replaced. What others should I be aware of?

TIA :datawiz:

[Stangkiller]

Give me a list of bolts and such that are not reusable so I can get them ordered from GM. Obviously the crank pulley bolt is a stretch bolt and needs to be replaced. What others should I be aware of?

TIA :datawiz:

Thinking you meant to start a new thread.....your entire oiling system needs to be replaced or thoroughly cleaned. This especially includes coolers and pump.

any stretch to yield bolts (if you're still using any) such as crank pulley and head bolts...i suspect you've gone to ARP for those though.

[Datawiz]

Thinking you meant to start a new thread.....your entire oiling system needs to be replaced or thoroughly cleaned. This especially includes coolers and pump.

any stretch to yield bolts (if you're still using any) such as crank pulley and head bolts...i suspect you've gone to ARP for those though.

LOL. Was supposed to be a new thread. :rofl:

New heads on the long block came installed and are ARP, so I'm good there. What about things like the oil pan, bell housing, and things like that?

[boracayjohnny]

Hey Craig, don't forget about that loose nut behind the wheel. :D

[island14]

Give me a list of bolts and such that are not reusable so I can get them ordered from GM. Obviously the crank pulley bolt is a stretch bolt and needs to be replaced. What others should I be aware of?

TIA :datawiz:

Seriously Craig.. I cant think of any bolts that cannot be reused.

Some say this... some say that.. as long as you torque it as required, no problems.

Crank pulley bolt is the least of your problems.

Rod bolts possibly can be argued, but wont apply to your deal.

:cert:

[island14]

Hey Craig, don't forget about that loose nut behind the wheel. :D

You torque that with a beer wrench. :D

[Stangkiller]

LOL. Was supposed to be a new thread. :rofl:

New heads on the long block came installed and are ARP, so I'm good there. What about things like the oil pan, bell housing, and things like that?

Craig, I don't know the specifics of the Ls7 oil pan considering it's oiling system...unless there's places for containment to get stuck, just use the shit out of break parts cleaner, to make sure it's clean.

seriously go buy a case or three of Brake parts cleaner.

Bell housing should be fine. considering this is a race car and not a street car any more, a scatter shield for safety, but not really a requirement at this point.

[Stangkiller]

Seriously Craig.. I cant think of any bolts that cannot be reused.

Some say this... some say that.. as long as you torque it as required, no problems.

Crank pulley bolt is the least of your problems.

Rod bolts possibly can be argued, but wont apply to your deal.

:cert:

I disagree...some GM bolts are torque to yield, and should not be reused, especially for racing. I expect Craig to have replaced them with ARP at this point though.

Don't forget the flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts.

Craig if you're going to pull the drive train, take a look at the torque tube bushings and bolts.

[Datawiz]

Here's how you are supposed to do it.

lHW-ogV90l0

[island14]

I disagree...some GM bolts are torque to yield, and should not be reused, especially for racing. I expect Craig to have replaced them with ARP at this point though.

Don't forget the flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts.

Craig if you're going to pull the drive train, take a look at the torque tube bushings and bolts.

Name a bolt that can't be reused and why... :island14:

Other than Possibly a rod bolt? :island14:

(and have reused them with zero problems @ over 8000 RPM)

Sometimes I thinks...thinks get thinks too much, but heck what do I know..

[Stangkiller]

Name a bolt that can't be reused and why... :island14:

Other than Possibly a rod bolt? :island14:

(and have reused them with zero problems)

Sometimes I thinks...thinks get thinks too much, but heck what do I know..

Head bolts and Crank pulley for sure. I think the clutch bolts may be too.

They are Torque to Yield (TTY) to be torqued to a specific lb-ft then stretched into place.

I know your experience is with the older SBC's that did not use TTY bolts. These TTY bolts are specifically made to be stretched once.

You can replace TTY bolts with non TTY such as ARP, those can be reused.

[island14]

These are things you should be asking your builder.

:iagree:

[Datawiz]

Head bolts and Crank pulley for sure. I think the clutch bolts may be too.

This is what the engine builder said. :yesnod:

[Y2Kvert4me]

Name a bolt that can't be reused and why... :island14:The head bolts and balancer bolt on LS engines are torque-to-yield fasteners and are to be used (stretched) only once.

The balancer bolt is notorious for loosening on these engines. On Corvettes, the steering rack is about 1" directly in front of the balancer, so when that bolt backs out, the rack tube usually becomes damaged. This is not an item to mistorque or arbitrarily decide a stretched bolt can be re-used to save $5.

The stock GM bolt is fine to use, so long as the incremental torquing procedure is followed exactly, and is only torqued once. For $30, the ARP balancer bolt is a suggested upgrade, it simply torques to 240-250lbs/ft and is reusable.

As for the heads, ARP studs are the way to go. Since the heads are already on this engine, I'll assume they won't be removed prior to use. Or maybe he ordered it with studs, I didn't go back to look at the build sheet on it.

:cert:

[Datawiz]

The head bolts and balancer bolt on LS engines are torque-to-yield fasteners and are to be used (stretched) only once.

The balancer bolt is notorious for loosening on these engines. On Corvettes, the steering rack is about 1" directly in front of the balancer, so when that bolt backs out, the rack tube usually becomes damaged. This is not an item to mistorque or arbitrarily decide a stretched bolt can be re-used to save $5.

The stock GM bolt is fine to use, so long as the incremental torquing procedure is followed exactly, and is only torqued once. For $30, the ARP balancer bolt is a suggested upgrade, it simply torques to 240-250lbs/ft and is resuable.

As for the heads, ARP studs are the way to go. Since the heads are already on this engine, I'll assume they won't be removed prior to use. Or maybe he ordered it with studs, I didn't go back to look at the build sheet on it.

:cert:

Heads are already installed, and they used ARP on them. I'm going to order the ARP balancer bolt for sure.

[island14]

Head bolts and Crank pulley for sure. I think the clutch bolts may be too.

They are Torque to Yield (TTY) to be torqued to a specific lb-ft then stretched into place.

I know your experience is with the older SBC's that did not use TTY bolts. These TTY bolts are specifically made to be stretched once.

You can replace TTY bolts with non TTY such as ARP, those can be reused.


I was too buzzed last night to even begin to try to understand TTY bolts.

Kinda like looking up storm surge that I never heard of.. :lol:

So I just agreed with Drew on ask the builder, then they can't blame you if something goes wrong.

Hey great idea if you are in the business of selling bolts, use em just once and buy new. :D :datawiz:


Seriously, what would be the advantage if any? :island14:


We did not use head bolts.. and most racers I ever knew didn't either for high power engines.

Anytime I replaced heads on street cars I always used the same old bolts as long as they looked good after cleaning with no damage, some say you should use new, others argue that the threads on new are rough and you are better off using the old ones, and they say if you do use new, that you should always re-torque them after the engine has been up to heat.

Even that sounded kinda plausible, but when you think about it, new engines use new bolts and they don't re-torque them later at the dealer. :island14:

We did always re-check the torque on the heads on Race Cars after a first race, then if all was well just left it alone from then on.

I think a lot of problems when people replace head bolts is all the crud that gets backed down into the threads and sometimes can strip the threads out of the block. So cleaning is always important.


The Crank Pulley bolt does seem like a new bolt might be a good idea as much as they get torqued and stressed. :yesnod:

But I always re-used them and the same for clutch bolts as long as they looked good, along with Loc-Tite

Can't remember for sure but think we also wired them at the clutch.

I haven't had any come off myself, but have seen others loose a pulley off the front. :yesnod:

With the flywheel and clutch we just used a light weight flex plate for the starter, so not a lot of weight along with a small triple disk clutch that was only about 8 inch diameter.

Have seen some come loose on street cars with heavy torque converters and heavy street type flywheels though over time.. but they don't just fly off and start rattling first to warn you that somethings loose.

:cert:

[island14]

Heads are already installed, and they used ARP on them. I'm going to order the ARP balancer bolt for sure.

:iagree:

Not a place to use a cheap bolt.

Did they use studs on your heads? I was assuming they did.

[Chuck A]

wonder how come the chutes deployed but then they popped off

[boracayjohnny]

wonder how come the chutes deployed but then they popped off

Not working properly under real conditions just like many other things with this car.

[ApexOversteer]

Here's how you are supposed to do it.

lHW-ogV90l0

Posting porn again I see...

[Fastguy]

wonder how come the chutes deployed but then they popped off

The amount of force generated by the parachutes is unreal.
If not mounted properly, they can kill you. You have to look at mounting point, shroud line length and canopy size. One of the issues we had with the funny cars is wheelstanding at the top end when the chutes hit. The car goes from +5gs to -9gs in an instant. If mounted too high, the car can wheelstand and flip over, if too low, they can lift the back of the car.
We had a defective chute that had one panel made of different material than the other three panels. When it hit, it acted like a parasail and pulled the car into the air, smashing it into the guardrail at 250 mph.
It takes a lot of incremental testing to figure out the best chute setup.
This is a similar vid of what happened to our car with the faulty chute..

Jet Funny Car Crash - YouTube