Crown Molding install

[Bob CTS]

Got a question on how to install this stuff. When you run a piece that runs horizontal to the roof trusses and there is not one in the corner to nail to how do you secure the top of the molding? The ceiling is a California knock down so the molding will sit flush against the ceiling. The bottom of the molding is easy since you can catch each stud.

One last question, should I cope the corners or miter them? Advantage of either?

[LATB]

hire a professional carpenter

we know the tricks of the trade. :D

[LATB]

although...for some barn bucks...

I'll give you the trick.

[Bob CTS]

hire a professional carpenter

we know the tricks of the trade. :D

That would get me out of this job alot sooner, but is out of the question, it is the last thing on the punch list for the bathroom remodel, got alot of the baseboards done, just thinking ahead on the molding.

[LATB]

That would get me out of this job alot sooner, but is out of the question, it is the last thing on the punch list for the bathroom remodel, got alot of the baseboards done, just thinking ahead on the molding.

see post #3 :D

[Bob CTS]

although...for some barn bucks...

I'll give you the trick.

sure, not sure how I get them to you.

[78SA]

see post #3 :D

He only has 815. :rofl:

[carlton_fritz]

see post #3 :D
If you go to the bar thread you can get more background of the situation and probably tell him for free.

[cdg2000c5]

Hell, just nail it as close to the corner as possible and fill the small gaps with putty

[carlton_fritz]

sure, not sure how I get them to you.
Click game room at the top. Look for transfer cash on the top right of the game window. Enter my name and the amount.:leaving:

[LATB]

sure, not sure how I get them to you.

we can figure that out later...

here is the scoop:

1st, yes cope the corners. one reason...corners are never perfect 90 degrees and miters open up even w/ paint.

run one piece full...cope the next into it...

DO NOT nail the end of the full piece...let it float...the mitre piece will lock it in place.

[LATB]

next:

when nailing...like you posted...nail the bottoms and the tops where you find ceiling joists (or truss joists)

the bottom always has a nailer for drywall in the corner.

yes, because of the "reach" on the ceiling of the crown...if the crown is 5" or larger...you probably will miss the ceiling drywall nailer...

don't worry about this.

let it float. the coped piece will hols it in place

[LATB]

3rd lesson:

when measuring the piece to be coped...measure wall to wall, not crown to wall.

and cut the piece to be coped a hair longer...this will allow you to "spring" the coped piece into the full run piece already nailed up there...

this "spring" will hold the corner together, even with only botton nails in the corner.

[Bob CTS]

we can figure that out later...

here is the scoop:

1st, yes cope the corners. one reason...corners are never perfect 90 degrees and miters open up even w/ paint.

run one piece full...cope the next into it...

DO NOT nail the end of the full piece...let it float...the mitre piece will lock it in place.

So nail the first full piece with ends flush to wall then work CCW or CW around the room.

Okay that is great info, because I know those corners are not perfect, that about the nail locations? Especially along the top when there is no truss or wood behind the ceiling. Also this will be a small crown molding, only about 2-3" wide. and will be at 45*. Am I to assume that you cut the piece to be coped at 45* then use a coping saw to cut the profile?

I coped the baseboards but those were flat up against the wall so I was not fighting angles.

[LATB]

next trick:

before installing any pieces...

cut a small piece square both ends...say 6 or 8 inches long...

on the corner (wall) hold the crown in place and move it to the exact placement as if one side is wall...and one side is ceiling...finfing the correct "balance" or proportion.

for example...a 5" crown will project approx 2 and 1/4 inches along the ceiling...and approx 3 and 1/4 inches down the wall.

find the "perfect "balance" by holding it in the corner of ay wall...and mark each edge to achieve this dimension.

then...mark the ceiling and wall in the corners and a few spots along the "run"

this will give you referance...to keep the crown properlly installed and it will help you maintain proper inside corners.

[PortDawg]

Got a question on how to install this stuff. When you run a piece that runs horizontal to the roof trusses and there is not one in the corner to nail to how do you secure the top of the molding? The ceiling is a California knock down so the molding will sit flush against the ceiling. The bottom of the molding is easy since you can catch each stud.

One last question, should I cope the corners or miter them? Advantage of either?

PM Lutzdog...He's does this kind of stuff all the time...

[LATB]

So nail the first full piece with ends flush to wall then work CCW or CW around the room.

Okay that is great info, because I know those corners are not perfect, that about the nail locations? Especially along the top when there is no truss or wood behind the ceiling. Also this will be a small crown molding, only about 2-3" wide. and will be at 45*. Am I to assume that you cut the piece to be coped at 45* then use a coping saw to cut the profile?

I coped the baseboards but those were flat up against the wall so I was not fighting angles.

correct on the coping method. as I posted...measure wall to wall...the long point of the 45* cut being the measurement point. then cope.

with 2 or 3 inch crown...you may find sufficent ceiling nailers at the corners.

but a experienced trim carpenter never nails the top of the non coped piece in the corner...let it float...the mitred piece will automatically position the non coped end.

CW or CCW is your choice.

you will end up with the final piece having coped on both ends, because the 1st piece is non coped and run wall to wall

[Bob CTS]

next trick:

before installing any pieces...

cut a small piece square both ends...say 6 or 8 inches long...

on the corner (wall) hold the crown in place and move it to the exact placement as if one side is wall...and one side is ceiling...finfing the correct "balance" or proportion.

for example...a 5" crown will project approx 2 and 1/4 inches along the ceiling...and approx 3 and 1/4 inches down the wall.

find the "perfect "balance" by holding it in the corner of ay wall...and mark each edge to achieve this dimension.


then...mark the ceiling and wall in the corners and a few spots along the "run"

this will give you referance...to keep the crown properlly installed and it will help you maintain proper inside corners.

Excellent, thank you so much for the help, that helps clear up my concerns and glad I was going down the right road in thought.

[LATB]

another trick...

when cutting the material...

think of the bottom of the mitre saw as the ceiling, and the fence of the saw as the wall.

sounds crazy I know...do it and you will see...it is actually easier.

[LATB]

Excellent, thank you so much for the help, that helps clear up my concerns and glad I was going down the right road in thought.

no problem

just don't over think the nailing...it takes a lot less nails than you think.

and there is nothing wrong with blind nailing into sheetrock on an angle to keep a piece in place until you find wood or the next piece is "sprung" into place.

also...sometimes, when necessary, I'll use a 10 or eben a 12 penny finish nail...and go right into the middle of the crown and into the corner of the ceiling/wall, where you know ther is a top plate drywall nailer.

be careful with this because you are nailing into the "hollow" of the crown and it can split/crack...but with 2 or 3 inch...not a biggie.

[Bob CTS]

correct on the coping method. as I posted...measure wall to wall...the long point of the 45* cut being the measurement point. then cope.

with 2 or 3 inch crown...you may find sufficent ceiling nailers at the corners.

but a experienced trim carpenter never nails the top of the non coped piece in the corner...let it float...the mitred piece will automatically position the non coped end.

CW or CCW is your choice.

you will end up with the final piece having coped on both ends, because the 1st piece is non coped and run wall to wall

CW or CCW I guess depends on the fact that my mitre saw has the table that will slide/rotate both ways, but the blade will only tilt to the right: = /

Awesome, do you have a preferred fastner? I used both, pneumatic finish nailer and the old fashion hammer for the baseboards. Can't remember the length of the nail I have, just wondering what gauge and length you like to use.

[Bob CTS]

another trick...

when cutting the material...

think of the bottom of the mitre saw as the ceiling, and the fence of the saw as the wall.

sounds crazy I know...do it and you will see...it is actually easier.

I understand because everything is 'backwards' so to speak of.

[JRD77VET]

another trick...

when cutting the material...

think of the bottom of the mitre saw as the ceiling, and the fence of the saw as the wall.

sounds crazy I know...do it and you will see...it is actually easier.

The above quote should be printed and kept at the miter box. It's save you a couple of extra cuts ( from what I read in a book :leaving: )


I went nutz putting fancy corner moulding in my kitchen in my former house before we sold it. The kitchen was the back porch( way back ) and the main house was built in 1876. Square? :rofl: I was lucky the walls were vertical

[Bob CTS]

no problem

just don't over think the nailing...it takes a lot less nails than you think.

and there is nothing wrong with blind nailing into sheetrock on an angle to keep a piece in place until you find wood or the next piece is "sprung" into place.

also...sometimes, when necessary, I'll use a 10 or eben a 12 penny finish nail...and go right into the middle of the crown and into the corner of the ceiling/wall, where you know ther is a top plate drywall nailer.

be careful with this because you are nailing into the "hollow" of the crown and it can split/crack...but with 2 or 3 inch...not a biggie.

Great tip, thanks many again.
Bob

[LATB]

CW or CCW I guess depends on the fact that my mitre saw has the table that will slide/rotate both ways, but the blade will only tilt to the right: = /

Awesome, do you have a preferred fastner? I used both, pneumatic finish nailer and the old fashion hammer for the baseboards. Can't remember the length of the nail I have, just wondering what gauge and length you like to use.

I use hand drives on crown in small areas. on long runs, I use hand drives to get in place...then I may use an air gun w/ trim nails to "nail off"

use #4's on the bottom...and #6 or 8's on the top. again...don't over nail. if you are painting...the caulk actually holds in in place also. (but I still nail the shit out of it)

I usually go Cw around the room...but each case is a little different. sometimes there's a FP or something that dictates the run.

[LATB]

I understand because everything is 'backwards' so to speak of.

:yesnod:

[Bob CTS]

The above quote should be printed and kept at the miter box. It's save you a couple of extra cuts ( from what I read in a book :leaving: )


I went nutz putting fancy corner moulding in my kitchen in my former house before we sold it. The kitchen was the back porch( way back ) and the main house was built in 1876. Square? :rofl: I was lucky the walls were vertical

I know about the vertical part, I did his floor and it is level, one wall is off a tad on vertical. He bought these really (shall I say crappy vanities) and when placed up against the wall the front of the vanity was damn near a half inch off the floor. Did not want to return them so I planed the bottom at an angle so they sit flush against the wall, real PITA there.

[LATB]

Great tip, thanks many again.
Bob

no problem Bob

I've run hundreds of miles of the stuff...

now...when you get into oak or cheery...that's not getting painted...

or multiple layers of "built up" crown...

it's a whole different animal. You can't bang it to fit and caulk it to match. :rofl:

[Bob CTS]

I use hand drives on crown in small areas. on long runs, I use hand drives to get in place...then I may use an air gun w/ trim nails to "nail off"

use #4's on the bottom...and #6 or 8's on the top. again...don't over nail. if you are painting...the caulk actually holds in in place also. (but I still nail the shit out of it)

I usually go Cw around the room...but each case is a little different. sometimes there's a FP or something that dictates the run.

Excellent, thanks for the nail intels. It is paint grade so white caulk here I come. :yesnod:

[Bob CTS]

no problem Bob

I've run hundreds of miles of the stuff...

now...when you get into oak or cheery...that's not getting painted...

or multiple layers of "built up" crown...

it's a whole different animal. You can't bang it to fit and caulk it to match. :rofl:

Boy I bet the Cherry is real pretty. I was in an executive board room years ago for an interview and everything was Cherry, it was done very nice, maybe a touch excessive.

[LATB]

running crown is one of my favorite things to do in a home...and it pays well.

depending on the crown...ceiling heights...and amount...paint or stain...

I can get up to $10.00 a foot...just for labor. :yesnod:

I did some last fall...with a buddy...5" crown installed and painted...labor & materials...we got $27.00 per foot. we installed & painted (3 coats) 160 feet in 2 days.

:dance:

[LATB]

Boy I bet the Cherry is real pretty. I was in an executive board room years ago for an interview and everything was Cherry, it was done very nice, maybe a touch excessive.

several years back...I did a large man room/office/den...

paneled walls...base boards...chair rail...crown...beamed "egg crate" ceiling...doors...windows...

all in cherry...we were in that one room for over a month. loved it!!!

[Bob CTS]

running crown is one of my favorite things to do in a home...and it pays well.

depending on the crown...ceiling heights...and amount...paint or stain...

I can get up to $10.00 a foot...just for labor. :yesnod:

I did some last fall...with a buddy...5" crown installed and painted...labor & materials...we got $27.00 per foot. we installed & painted (3 coats) 160 feet in 2 days.

:dance:

:dance: Lots of ladder work sounds like.

[Bob CTS]

several years back...I did a large man room/office/den...

paneled walls...base boards...chair rail...crown...beamed "egg crate" ceiling...doors...windows...

all in cherry...we were in that one room for over a month. loved it!!!

sounds like the board room I was in. It was very nice and I bet alot of time was spent installing it.

[LATB]

:dance: Lots of ladder work sounds like.
yes and I'm not getting any younger...but the pay was too much to walk from. 2 grand for 2 days...I'm there :D
sounds like the board room I was in. It was very nice and I bet alot of time was spent installing it.
that one we rented scaffolding.

[mrvette]

Boy I bet the Cherry is real pretty. I was in an executive board room years ago for an interview and everything was Cherry, it was done very nice, maybe a touch excessive.

Ha, should see those K st NW DC. law offices.....them guys are proud of them, ....

:)

[VatorMan]

running crown is one of my favorite things to do in a home...and it pays well.

depending on the crown...ceiling heights...and amount...paint or stain...

I can get up to $10.00 a foot...just for labor. :yesnod:

I did some last fall...with a buddy...5" crown installed and painted...labor & materials...we got $27.00 per foot. we installed & painted (3 coats) 160 feet in 2 days.

:dance:

Our carpenter had us paint the crown molding before he put it up.

[LATB]

Our carpenter had us paint the crown molding before he put it up.

a coat or 2 is OK before install...but final coat should be applied after install. It covers joints, miters and the caulk/nail hole putty. just gives a smoother more professional finish.

many crown profiles are now available primed from the yard.

I prefer to work with unpainted wood...so does my saw blades. :D

[MrPeabody]

Stop watching HGTV and you will no longer think you need crown molding.:takdir:

[Aerovette]

Do what my jackwad builder did and get a nail gun and shoot as many nails per square foot as possible and any angle imaginable, and fill the holes with caulk.