It has begun.

[SnikPlosskin]

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/IMG_2531_zps51cedc9a.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/IMG_2548_zps7b85a27e.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/IMG_2530_zps9c001a5c.jpg

[VetteBoy1979]

Good luck. Thread should be epic.

[MrPeabody]

Are you painting the whole car? Did the insurance come through on it?

[SnikPlosskin]

Are you painting the whole car? Did the insurance come through on it?

Painting the entire car. Insurance came up with $4,500 so far. I'll be doing a lot of the work myself but working with a super experienced painter. No idea how I'll pay for it.

But feck it. It will be done.

[Bill]

Painting the entire car. Insurance came up with $4,500 so far. I'll be doing a lot of the work myself but working with a super experienced painter. No idea how I'll pay for it.

But feck it. It will be done.

You might be able to get Red.....just give him plenty of notice, and a poorly constructed pvc/tarp structure. It should be fine.

:D

[MrPeabody]

Painting the entire car. Insurance came up with $4,500 so far. I'll be doing a lot of the work myself but working with a super experienced painter. No idea how I'll pay for it.

But feck it. It will be done.

Are you going to put the rear wheel wells back to stock? Sticking with the silver? (best color for Corvettes, IMO. Both of mine were silver.) Looks good on any generation.

[CertInsaneC5]

Good luck. Thread should be epic.

:iagree: :waiting:

[Chuck A]

very cool, indeed

[DukeAllen]

You might be able to get Red.....just give him plenty of notice, and a poorly constructed pvc/tarp structure. It should be fine.

:D

Does Red use brush or roller? :D

[JRD77VET]

Good luck Pete. With fresh paint, it will look even better :yesnod:

Jeff

[SnikPlosskin]

Are you going to put the rear wheel wells back to stock? Sticking with the silver? (best color for Corvettes, IMO. Both of mine were silver.) Looks good on any generation.

Silver it is. I hope we can do the fenders. Still working out the details. I'm also doing the door wells.

And while I'm there:

Rebuild heater ducting
install windshield squirters
repair a bad hold in the cluster mount
tighten everything
new throw out bearing
rebuild headlight buckets with halogen bulbs
new weatherstripping
remount and align doors
rebuild vent window regulators
new tires (softer, taller tires)
clean the hell out of everything
fix crazy brake lines under hood.
realign and mount deck lid
polish bumpers and stainless

[SnikPlosskin]

Down the road if I can afford it I'd like to put factory side exhaust on. But I think I need shorty headers. I suppose I'll sell my hooker ceramic coated headers. My understanding is that you need the pipe to go straight down to the factory exhaust.

Mine go under the car, around an S curve and then into the side pipe.

[SnikPlosskin]

very cool, indeed

It's a sickness. I was over it for about a decade. But as soon as I started taking the car apart, Improvement Fever has struck me.

Plus it gives me something to do besides starve to death while I wait for surgery.

I work a little, get out of breath, rest, repeat. :yesnod:

I may do the fender wells myself if the painter lets me. I kind of dig doing fiberglass work.

[Stangkiller]

Good luck. Thread should be epic.

:iagree: yup what he said

[markids77]

Do not, repeat do not sell any guns or guitars to finance this. You will regret it later.

[Chris Fowler]

I expect that car to be beautiful before I buy it off of you. :yesnod:

[MrPeabody]

It's a sickness. I was over it for about a decade. But as soon as I started taking the car apart, Improvement Fever has struck me.

Plus it gives me something to do besides starve to death while I wait for surgery.

I work a little, get out of breath, rest, repeat. :yesnod:

I may do the fender wells myself if the painter lets me. I kind of dig doing fiberglass work.

Working on cars can be great therapy, both mental and physical.:yesnod:

[Fasglas]

Does Red use brush or roller? :D


http://whitetrashrepairs.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/6642.jpg

[Kerrmudgeon]

Down the road if I can afford it I'd like to put factory side exhaust on. But I think I need shorty headers. I suppose I'll sell my hooker ceramic coated headers. My understanding is that you need the pipe to go straight down to the factory exhaust.

Mine go under the car, around an S curve and then into the side pipe.

Factory setup is straight from the manifolds to the side like this. You'd be better running the stock 2+1/2 inch manifolds instead of shorties. No performance advantage to shortie/block huggers. Dorman makes generic manifolds that are cheap to buy. Part#674504 and 674503 LT and RT side.

http://www.gardnerexhaust.com/img/65bbcorvettesideexhaust.jpg

Check out an install.....
Installing a Side Pipe Exhaust System on a C2 Vette | CC Tech - Corvette Blog, Restoration and Repair (http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2012/05/installing-a-side-pipe-exhaust-system-on-a-c2-vette/)

[SnikPlosskin]

Factory setup is straight from the manifolds to the side like this. You'd be better running the stock 2+1/2 inch manifolds instead of shorties. No performance advantage to shortie/block huggers. Dorman makes generic manifolds that are cheap to buy. Part#674504 and 674503 LT and RT side.

http://www.gardnerexhaust.com/img/65bbcorvettesideexhaust.jpg

Check out an install.....
Installing a Side Pipe Exhaust System on a C2 Vette | CC Tech - Corvette Blog, Restoration and Repair (http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2012/05/installing-a-side-pipe-exhaust-system-on-a-c2-vette/)

No performance with headers? Surprised.

Are there mufflers inside the pipes? Or just chambers?

[JRD77VET]

No performance with headers? Surprised.

Are there mufflers inside the pipes? Or just chambers?

The 2-1/2" factory exhaust manifolds flow exceptionally well.

I have that style exhaust on my '77 as an under car system ( not side pipes) and it has a nice rumble and you'll know when you press the go pedal :yesnod:

[SnikPlosskin]

Pictures are required at all steps!

Will do. It's been slow this week. I've been in serious pain for about 18 hours a day. But I still have managed to do all the body disassembly for body work.

I have to fix the lower cowl where it curves up to the driving light. It has a terrible repair from the previous Bubba and now it is cracked. They just used a blob of bondo behind it. Idiots.

I'll cut the section out and glass it in.

Besides the crazy gash in the fender, most of the body work is scratches and dings. I'll feather those out.

I'm really pleased with the guy who will paint it. He is letting me assist with prep (which is unheard of) but I'll have to do it at his shop with his supervision.

The good news is that I know how to do it. But he doesn't know and of course he's worried about surface prep.

I think I'll do the grunt work and have him do the fine tuning. I can also mask the car and wet sand. I can spray primer and sand all day long.

I added body shims last week and the gaps are 100% better.

The big mystery is how to get the rear deck to lay flush with the car. I just don't see any adjustment points. That has bugged me from the beginning.

[SQUIRMIN VERMIN 84]

Does Red use brush or roller? :D

Fingers...

[Kerrmudgeon]

Will do. It's been slow this week. I've been in serious pain for about 18 hours a day. But I still have managed to do all the body disassembly for body work.

I have to fix the lower cowl where it curves up to the driving light. It has a terrible repair from the previous Bubba and now it is cracked. They just used a blob of bondo behind it. Idiots.

I'll cut the section out and glass it in.

Besides the crazy gash in the fender, most of the body work is scratches and dings. I'll feather those out.

I'm really pleased with the guy who will paint it. He is letting me assist with prep (which is unheard of) but I'll have to do it at his shop with his supervision.

The good news is that I know how to do it. But he doesn't know and of course he's worried about surface prep.

I think I'll do the grunt work and have him do the fine tuning. I can also mask the car and wet sand. I can spray primer and sand all day long.

I added body shims last week and the gaps are 100% better.

The big mystery is how to get the rear deck to lay flush with the car. I just don't see any adjustment points. That has bugged me from the beginning.

You should be able to adjust the height of the lid by using shims underneath the mounting brackets, and there's side adjustment in the mounts as well I believe.
So you decided not to strip the car? :( You can't see the bonding strips if you dont to check for stress cracks in the glass. I've stripped and prepped for paint 3 times on my Vettes in the past, plus I did all the glass work req'd. :thumbs:

[SnikPlosskin]

You should be able to adjust the height of the lid by using shims underneath the mounting brackets, and there's side adjustment in the mounts as well I believe.
So you decided not to strip the car? :( You can't see the bonding strips if you dont to check for stress cracks in the glass. I've stripped and prepped for paint 3 times on my Vettes in the past, plus I did all the glass work req'd. :thumbs:

I'll need to figure out how to remove those hinge assemblies. I remember I couldn't figure it out before.

I stripped the car down to the glass (using razor blades) 10 years ago removing about nine paint jobs. All the bonding strips were checked and repaired. None show currently and the car has a single paint job with very little filler or bondo.

Since its never been wrecked and because of limited funds, we won't strip it. the only real flaws it has are chips, scratches and some zebra striping from my lack of spraying experience.

We may strip the hood (it has some delamination) and the scratched fender. But that's up to the paint man.

[island14]

The only difference between a good paint job and a great paint job... is the time that was spent on the prep.

:cert:

[OldSarge]

Good luck with that, I am sure the results will be beautiful.

[87 Ragtop]

Good Luck and continue to enjoy the process as it sound like you are!! :cheers:

[SnikPlosskin]

The only difference between a good paint job and a great paint job... is the time that was spent on the prep.

:cert:

Agree. The surface that is there is pretty nice and well adhered. We used PPG system starting with epoxy sealer, then sandable primer (kp40) then color and clear.

I think we would end up with a worse surface stripping it off. We will be sanding the entire car starting with 80 grit to remove top coats and oxidized finish. Then we start filling small imperfections, sandable primer, sand, sand, sand, wet sand, color and 3-4 coats of clear.

Then sand. And sand. Did I mention the sanding?

[island14]

Agree. The surface that is there is pretty nice and well adhered. We used PPG system starting with epoxy sealer, then sandable primer (kp40) then color and clear.

I think we would end up with a worse surface stripping it off. We will be sanding the entire car starting with 80 grit to remove top coats and oxidized finish. Then we start filling small imperfections, sandable primer, sand, sand, sand, wet sand, color and 3-4 coats of clear.

Then sand. And sand. Did I mention the sanding?

80 grit sounds a bit rough for an all over sanding other than damaged areas.

Seriously, why would you want to make that much work for yourself? :island14:

I would think no need to strip it again since you did it the last time and only one coat now..

Only you know what the surface looked like before, and I can't call it from here.

But any areas that looked a bit wavy before, spend extra time blocking it a lot with primer coats.

If hard for you to see what you are doing in those areas, use another color of primer as a mist to make it easier to see the results, (Red oxide vs grey)

Getting the body ready to shoot will take quite awhile..

But getting all of the Jams ready is going to take almost long for the quality of work that I know you want to put into this car. :seasix:

One small detail that I really like, is new cad plated bolts for the door hinges, and strike plates after the paint.

It does not cost a lot... but really snaps out atcha when you open the Doors later.

What type of material for your finish will you be using?

Back when I was doing body work years ago we only had two choices, acrylic enamel (for trucks and cars no one cared about) or Lacquer, for that wet sanded after paint.. then buffed and rubbed to a mirror finish shine.

The new paints I have had very little experience with, but learned real fast that you can not apply the epoxies or base coat-clear coats.. like you did the old enamels or lacquers..

Had to wipe it off with enamel reducer real fast before it set up a few times before I got it right.. :lol:

:cert:

[island14]

And do not try to fill 80 grit sanding with primer!!!

They will come back a year or so later in the sun.. :yesnod:

[SnikPlosskin]

And do not try to fill 80 grit sanding with primer!!!

They will come back a year or so later in the sun.. :yesnod:

After a long meeting with the paint man, I realize now that I have no idea how to paint cars.

This guy is a blessing. He is going to let me work side by side with him in his shop (on my car and his drag boat) to help offset some of the labor costs.

I think it will be quite therepudic. I wish I just had the money to tell him "do it up".

:shots:

[island14]

After a long meeting with the paint man, I realize now that I have no idea how to paint cars.

This guy is a blessing. He is going to let me work side by side with him in his shop (on my car and his drag boat) to help offset some of the labor costs.

I think it will be quite therepudic. I wish I just had the money to tell him "do it up".

:shots:

I kinda wish I was there myself to help you do it man..

It would be fun, and would only cost you a few gallons of Rhum.. :lol:

We could get it ready to shoot together.. no doubt

But when it came down to the paint though, we would be better off to just let your buddy spray it, as I am not practiced enough with the new materials.

Do they even sell lacquer anymore? :lol:

Tell you what though, it is hard to beat that hand rubbed lacquer finish for the looks! :yesnod:

:cert:

[Aerovette]

How about 4 into one collector sidepipes? I had them on my 75. I loved the sound.

http://www.shop.huronspeedproducts.com/images/138634299645554326182.jpeg

[Dan Dlabay]

I bet it will look good when it's done.:seasix::cert:

[SnikPlosskin]

How about 4 into one collector sidepipes? I had them on my 75. I loved the sound.

http://www.shop.huronspeedproducts.com/images/138634299645554326182.jpeg

I prefer the factory style on the mid years although those look bad ass on a C3!

[SnikPlosskin]

I bet it will look good when it's done.:seasix::cert:

I've never really had a good paint job. My first hot rod had original paint (which was pretty flawless) and this car is the only one I've ever painted.

My paint job was OK but not very good. Had some zebra striping and some questionable surfacing here and there. We didn't remove all the trim last time so there are some transition lines (removed all the trim yesterday)

It's going to take a good six months just to find the money for it but I figure six months will come and go anyway.

Wife needs $5K in dental work and she is getting restless about not having countertops or flooring in the kitchen.

She has odd priorities.

[SnikPlosskin]

Progress.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/IMG_2591_zpsba4dcb0b.jpg

Still have to remove all that sealer and will likely pop the windshield to replace the gasket.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/IMG_2587_zpsac97a52d.jpg

It is also covered in this black shit. I think it's 3M adhesive somebody used to seal a leak.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/IMG_2588_zps86bb84fc.jpg

Rebuilding heater vent system - I left it out of the car last time.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/IMG_2593_zpsb0095b60.jpg

Going to strip and repaint both door wells.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/IMG_2592_zps174551e6.jpg

[RonC5]

I have always ran the Hedman headers with my sidepipes.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-68286/overview/make/chevrolet/model/corvette

[Kerrmudgeon]

No performance with headers? Surprised.

Are there mufflers inside the pipes? Or just chambers?

No notable perf gains with short headers, only the long tube type produce noticeable increases.

No mufflers, just pinched pipes in the original style. You can get ones that are a little quieter, and less raspy. I think it's "Allens" brand name.

Do you still have the original manifolds? Those Dormans are exact except for no GM numbers or markings on them. Cheap too. Pair for under a 100$.

[SnikPlosskin]

I have always ran the Hedman headers with my sidepipes.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-68286/overview/make/chevrolet/model/corvette

Those are sweet. Will consider.

[SnikPlosskin]

No notable perf gains with short headers, only the long tube type produce noticeable increases.

No mufflers, just pinched pipes in the original style. You can get ones that are a little quieter, and less raspy. I think it's "Allens" brand name.

Do you still have the original manifolds? Those Dormans are exact except for no GM numbers or markings on them. Cheap too. Pair for under a 100$.

Ah. No originals. Came with a set of Hooker headers from the swap meet where I bought the car like an idiot back in the day.

And I like loud.

I'm so glad I bought that car.

[mrvette]

Year 95+- I dated a gal in So. Bend Indiana, had a '63 vert.....krazy times, and I rewired her electrical system for rusted out fuse bank under the dash, back when I had a skeleton that allowed that .......

it was silver also.....so this brings back DeJaVu all over again.....



:seasix::hurray:

[Kerrmudgeon]

Ah. No originals. Came with a set of Hooker headers from the swap meet where I bought the car like an idiot back in the day.

And I like loud.

I'm so glad I bought that car.

:rofl:...spoken like a true rock star! :fastguy:

......say what?....sorry, can't hear you. :lolsmile:

[SnikPlosskin]

:rofl:...spoken like a true rock star! :fastguy:

......say what?....sorry, can't hear you. :lolsmile:

Good lord the tigglebitties in your avatar.

[SnikPlosskin]

Not sure if I shared this little modification.

Since I did a complete rewire on the car using Painless Wiring, ten years ago I did up the cluster wiring as an easy release harness.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/corvettedashwiring_zpsa9ef58ac.jpg

Instead of having a million wires going to a million places way up behind there where you can't get to it, I have consolidated all the wiring into two main plugs - headlight switch and a white multi-terminal plug.

The other side of the cluster has wires routed and secured.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/cluster-wiring_zpsca20096c.png

Now the dash pops in and out in about 10 minutes.

[Kerrmudgeon]

When I was 17 i spent the better part of a week upside down rewiring my 66. I was a lot younger and way more flexible then...:(

I remember thinking...why didn't they make it a plug in dash. :crazy:

[SnikPlosskin]

I've been maniacally working on the ride this last week fired up on medication - full of false energy.

It's like I'm having a contest as to whether my hands are rubbed down to the 'glass or the door wells.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/Sanded%20door%20pocket_zpsv6zpxjdz.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/Hand%20hammered_zpswhfkaprh.jpg

Also found some de-lamination at the bottom of the doors.

So I bought me some $35 glue

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/35%20adhesive_zpseiij1f3x.jpg

I mean "structural adhesive" and went to work making those doors right. Somebody apparently attempted to fix this door just dribbling in resin - but to actually fix it, it takes some 3M epoxy.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/bonding%20doors%201_zpsqgwwvv4h.jpg

I also pulled the interior.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/corvette%20masked_zpspwr5dsps.jpg

We washed the carpet...

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/cleaning%20carpets_zpswelifmdl.jpg

Which worked surprisingly well.

I still have to replace some of the carpet due to sun fading.

:needcoffee:

[JRD77VET]

Looking good :yesnod: Hopefully no big surprises are found

[markids77]

You can recolor the carpet quite nicely using a vinyl dye. I like VHT brand; just make sure it can dry at 60 degrees or better for at least 24 hours after application or it might remain slightly tacky for awhile.

[Kerrmudgeon]

It's like I'm having a contest as to whether my hands are rubbed down to the 'glass or the door wells.
What's up with your thumb?....it's a little swollen?...or what?

We washed the carpet...

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/ThrakkorzogPJM/cleaning%20carpets_zpswelifmdl.jpg

Which worked surprisingly well.

I still have to replace some of the carpet due to sun fading.


:needcoffee:

If the carpet's in good shape, you can dye it back to original color. You can get the right color dye from suppliers or just do what I did...use fabric dye in a pail of water. Worked great. :seasix:

[SnikPlosskin]

If the carpet's in good shape, you can dye it back to original color. You can get the right color dye from suppliers or just do what I did...use fabric dye in a pail of water. Worked great. :seasix:

Did you have to set it with heat?

[Kerrmudgeon]

Did you have to set it with heat?

I forget right now, but I just followed the directions on the dye box, used a pail instead of the washer/sink, and when its finished you rinse the crap out of it. I put mine on the driveway and used the garden hose and blasted away until it was clear. Worked like a charm and never bled on anything. :seasix: