A Few Final Questions Before I Install The Motor...

[StaticCling]

Looking like a target date of Monday to drop the new engine in. :ohnoes:


After struggling with the piece of SHIT plastic clutch alignment tool, I went to NAPA and bought the steel rod type tool with different pilot bushing adaptors...after that, the transmission slipped right in with little effort. Shit you not, the Autozone clerk didn't even know what a clutch alignment tool was. :kick:

I was worried about my Prothane motor mounts, but I verified they are correct for my application via their website, so good there. New rubber trans mount sits up considerably higher than the old one, but I am assuming it's fine because the old one was mashed down and deteriorated from age.

Lastly, clutch fork position. When the trans is installed, it's normal for the throwout to be touching the arms on the pressure plate? There isn't a great deal of movement in the clutch fork when everything is assembled fyi.

Por Favor in Advance, and thank you for all the help on this guys. :)

[MrPeabody]

Statistically, there's a pretty good chance that Autozone clerk can't even drive a stick.

[Jeff '79]

No answers for you!!!


Until we get pics of your wife.


:ball:

[mrvette]

Been a LONG time, but I had a similar shituation with some stick shift vehicle and so the bellhousing allowed me to get at the clutch PP bolts into the fly....so I cheated and left them all loose enough that the clutch was more or less in position, but not TIGHT......so when slipping the dick in it took just a tug one way or another to ram it home.....then to tighten up the nutz and be secure......I can't remember the car, but it made me wonder as to why not just cut out the bottom of any stick shift bellhousing like an typical GM auto trans.......not like it's securing anything.....

:issues::cert:

[SnikPlosskin]

Looking like a target date of Monday to drop the new engine in. :ohnoes:


After struggling with the piece of SHIT plastic clutch alignment tool, I went to NAPA and bought the steel rod type tool with different pilot bushing adaptors...after that, the transmission slipped right in with little effort. Shit you not, the Autozone clerk didn't even know what a clutch alignment tool was. :kick:

I was worried about my Prothane motor mounts, but I verified they are correct for my application via their website, so good there. New rubber trans mount sits up considerably higher than the old one, but I am assuming it's fine because the old one was mashed down and deteriorated from age.

Lastly, clutch fork position. When the trans is installed, it's normal for the throwout to be touching the arms on the pressure plate? There isn't a great deal of movement in the clutch fork when everything is assembled fyi.

Por Favor in Advance, and thank you for all the help on this guys. :)

Not sure on the throwout bearing. It doesn't seem like it should make contact with the pedal not engaged. Try flipping it over (not sure if that makes a difference).

I have a pretty stout clutch and I don't remember the fitment of the bearing - but it just seems wrong for it to rub with the pedal out.

Hopefully someone can chime in and clarify.

Oh, those plastic alignment tools are CRAP. Years ago I made one from the shaft of an M21. Waaaaaay better.

[StaticCling]

Oh, those plastic alignment tools are CRAP. Years ago I made one from the shaft of an M21. Waaaaaay better.

I tried to source an old 26 spline input shaft from the shop that rebuilt my Muncie, but they didn't have one. You aren't the only one that has suggested this. It's the best way if you can do it. Next time I'm scrounging, I'm gonna be on the lookout for one. :yesnod:

The dust boot kind of limits the clutch fork movement. I verified that I installed it correctly via the AIM manual, I would imagine if I took it out, it would move more freely. Considered leaving it out for this reason.
FYI, the engine is still on the pallet, I am assembling everything on the floor and will be dropping it in as a unit.

[StaticCling]

Been a LONG time, but I had a similar shituation with some stick shift vehicle and so the bellhousing allowed me to get at the clutch PP bolts into the fly....so I cheated and left them all loose enough that the clutch was more or less in position, but not TIGHT......so when slipping the dick in it took just a tug one way or another to ram it home.....then to tighten up the nutz and be secure......I can't remember the car, but it made me wonder as to why not just cut out the bottom of any stick shift bellhousing like an typical GM auto trans.......not like it's securing anything.....

:issues::cert:

That's a method I considered. Sliding the trans in with the Bell OFF to just verify alignment. Using the input shaft of the trans itself as the alignment tool. Certainly possible, and relatively easy with the motor out of the car. I still bought the 30 dollar NAPA tool and it worked great.

[Kerrmudgeon]

The throw out brg shouldn't ride on the clutch fingers, but just clear it. Like I said before you may need an adjustable pushrod for that clutch configuration. Pedal play is adjusted under the dash as well. Rubber boot shouldn't be a problem...it'll loosen up (squish) after a while.
Love to hear that thing run after all your work. :bigears:


Did you insert the yoke in the back of the trans and turn it slightly when you tried to push it into the clutch/bellhousing? A tiny turn and they usually slip right in...

[StaticCling]

The throw out brg shouldn't ride on the clutch fingers, but just clear it. Like I said before you may need an adjustable pushrod for that clutch configuration. Pedal play is adjusted under the dash as well. Rubber boot shouldn't be a problem...it'll loosen up (squish) after a while.
Love to hear that thing run after all your work. :bigears:


Did you insert the yoke in the back of the trans and turn it slightly when you tried to push it into the clutch/bellhousing? A tiny turn and they usually slip right in...

:yesnod:


I might try removing that boot and see what I am getting as far as clutch fork movement. I'm using a standard throwout bearing with a standard 1.5 inch GM pivot ball in the Bellhousing. The setup isn't radically different than stock. The throwout certainly self corrected on the fork as I slid the trans in. Still, the bearing is touching the fingers...I can tell when I move the fork back and forth...

Again, the engine and trans are on the floor. No transmission linkage, z bar etc are attached yet...

[69camfrk]

If I can remember it by morning, I will send you some pics off my '72. Setup should be exactly the same.:seasix:

[Kerrmudgeon]

:yesnod:


I might try removing that boot and see what I am getting as far as clutch fork movement. I'm using a standard throwout bearing with a standard 1.5 inch GM pivot ball in the Bellhousing. The setup isn't radically different than stock. The throwout certainly self corrected on the fork as I slid the trans in. Still, the bearing is touching the fingers...I can tell when I move the fork back and forth...

Again, the engine and trans are on the floor. No transmission linkage, z bar etc are attached yet...

Bearing shouldn't RIDE on the clutch fingers. You need a minimal clearance with no pressure on the clutch. This is a Ford application but it's the same thing....check, there's clearance when clutch is out....

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/attachments/34915d1322331764-clutch-works.png

[mrvette]

with all the mess ASSembled I always check for clarence by flipping the clutch fork back and forth, and with a quiet enough exhaust, you can hear the thrown out bearing whirr and go silent, using a stethoscope

:seasix::hurray:

[StaticCling]

I'm almost positive it's that clutch fork boot that's pushing the fork against the pressure plate fingers. I'm going to take it off and see what happens when I slip in the trans.

I'm also wondering if the input shaft of the trans moves the bearing backwards and allows for the clearance needed. Right now, the trans is on the floor, and I'm just looking at the bearing touching the fingers (without trans in)

[69camfrk]

Hope these pics help!

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j17/69camfrk/009_zpsc9e42f10.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j17/69camfrk/015_zps79d1f5e1.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j17/69camfrk/014_zps592847ee.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j17/69camfrk/013_zpsd222107b.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j17/69camfrk/012_zps71ea5383.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j17/69camfrk/011_zps35404252.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j17/69camfrk/010_zpsae4b5814.jpg

[StaticCling]

Thanks for the pics James. :cert:

I definitely have my boot installed correctly.

[StaticCling]

Well, I removed the clutch fork boot and that is definitely what is pushing the release bearing against the pressure plate arms. I'm going to attempt trimming it a bit later.

With the boot gone, I have freeplay with the fork.