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Sea Six
07-20-2013, 6:39pm
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD

Any issues with this truck?

It's got the 6.0L gasoline engine, with 3.73 rear which puts its GVWR at 9100 (I've seen 9300 reported in other sources). My 8800 lb dry weight 5er will be just a tad over that when it's loaded... maybe 500-600 lbs over the GVWR.

If I bought this truck, I could beef up the suspension or change the rear axle ratio to get the GVWR up into the 12,000 range, but honestly I doubt I would do either mod... considering the very limited amount of towing I will be doing per year. Max trip length will be less than 200 miles one way, and typical trip will be 25-40 miles one way.

:waiting:

DAB
07-20-2013, 6:42pm
the gvwr is the total. you have to back out the weight of the vehicle and your butt to get the payload. towing capacity is different number.

vetteman9368
07-20-2013, 6:42pm
How much? And is an early 07 (old body) or 07.5 (new body)? A 4.10 would help, but I think you would be ok. I might add an extra trans cooler, with a fan.

Y2Kvert4me
07-20-2013, 6:47pm
GVWR does not represent anything being towed. The GVWR means the truck itself, fully loaded, can weigh a max of 9100 lbs.

Towing capacity of that truck should be somewhere around 13,000 lbs.

63C2splitter
07-20-2013, 6:48pm
Here is the 2007 towing guide. I think that truck would be able to handle your load.....but, the 6.0 does not get very good mileage for a DD.

http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Trailer-Life-Towing-Guide-2007.pdf

Stangkiller
07-20-2013, 6:57pm
That could do it...the 6.0 won't be a beast, but it'll get the job done. An air leveling system could be installed for cheap (sub $300) and make sure it's got the coolers (trans and oil). I'd recommend the air leveling for any truck though.

Sea Six
07-20-2013, 7:11pm
GVWR does not represent anything being towed. The GVWR means the truck itself, fully loaded, can weigh a max of 9100 lbs.

Towing capacity of that truck should be somewhere around 13,000 lbs.

:funny:

Oh.


:seasix:

Sea Six
07-20-2013, 7:12pm
How much? And is an early 07 (old body) or 07.5 (new body)? A 4.10 would help, but I think you would be ok. I might add an extra trans cooler, with a fan.

Made in Feb '07. That looks like it's right smack-in-the-middle of the production run. Maybe a month or two into the last half.

Sea Six
07-20-2013, 7:14pm
Here's the link to the ebay ad: It's a $9500 buy-it-now.

Chevrolet : Silverado 2500 Regular Cab in Chevrolet | eBay Motors (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Regular-Cab-/161067165249?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&forcev4exp=true#ht_38003wt_1178)

MrPeabody
07-20-2013, 7:29pm
It looks like it will do the job for you. The only negative thing I see is the regular cab. I'm assuming that's not a problem for you, but it affects resale a lot. On a dealer's lot, they are extremely difficult to sell. Use that to your advantage when negotiating a price.

From what I remember selling Chevy trucks, the 2500HD has the same frame as the one ton, just not configured as a dually. It probably has the Towhaul feature, which is very nice to have. It's more than just a button that eliminates the overdrive. It changes the brain of the transmission to shift differently to compensate for the load.

RED-85-Z51
07-20-2013, 7:30pm
0% feeeback on a seller that is a used car dealer? Ehhh

Looks clean, it will be underwhelming...but comfortable. The 6.0 in a 3/4 ton, is to me, alot like the 350 in a 3/4 ton n the older body styles...it can tow it, doesnt mean its not going to do it well. The 6.0 is popular though.

RED-85-Z51
07-20-2013, 7:32pm
It looks like it will do the job for you. The only negative thing I see is the regular cab. I'm assuming that's not a problem for you, but it affects resale a lot. On a dealer's lot, they are extremely difficult to sell. Use that to your advantage when negotiating a price.

From what I remember selling Chevy trucks, the 2500HD has the same frame as the one ton, just not configured as a dually. It probably has the Towhaul feature, which is very nice to have. It's more than just a button that eliminates the overdrive. It changes the brain of the transmission to shift differently to compensate for the load.

This one is not an HD..its a regular 2500, basically..a Heavy Halfton...or 1500HD..

MrPeabody
07-20-2013, 7:36pm
This one is not an HD..its a regular 2500, basically..a Heavy Halfton...or 1500HD..

They are calling it an HD in the vehicle description in the ad, and the OP also called it an HD. There is a difference, OP needs to find out if it is or isn't. It does have HD badging in the photo in the ad.

RED-85-Z51
07-20-2013, 7:39pm
They are calling it an HD in the vehicle description in the ad, and the OP also called it an HD. There is a difference, OP needs to find out if it is or isn't. It does have HD badging in the photo in the ad.

Oh okay, I see the badge after I blew up the photo. All I saw in the ad was "Hd tow package" and in my experience, thats just their way of saying..it was a light hookup on the back bumper, and a receiver hitch..lol.

Sea Six
07-20-2013, 7:43pm
What's the deal with the "factory built-in brake controller?"

I've never heard of it.

RED-85-Z51
07-20-2013, 7:47pm
Power on the Vortec 6000 was 300hp/360tq....

Later 6.2 Liter versions made 403hp/415tq

The old 5700 made 255hp/330tq

Whereas the diesels are making 500tq, and the big blocks are like 440tq...

6 Liter, to me, has no business in front of a big load, but thats just me..your mileage may vary wildly...i know they get shitty mileage towing, worst than a big block.

MrPeabody
07-20-2013, 7:47pm
What's the deal with the "factory built-in brake controller?"

I've never heard of it.

IIRC, they came with a port already under the dash for one. And the controller was in a plastic bag in the glove box. All part of the factory tow package. I have no idea how good they are, but at least you know it's not something Bubba wired up while he drank a 12-pack.

RED-85-Z51
07-20-2013, 7:48pm
What's the deal with the "factory built-in brake controller?"

I've never heard of it.

On previous models, if you wanted to tow a trailer with electric brakes, you had to buy and install a controllr box under the dash, that taps into the brake lights...when you push the pedal, the lights come on like normal, but it activates the box, which sends 12v to the trailer brakes...activating them.

On that truck, it has that box installed already.

Sea Six
07-20-2013, 7:48pm
IIRC, they came with a port already under the dash for one. And the controller was in a plastic bag in the glove box. All part of the factory tow package. I have no idea how good they are, but at least you know it's not something Bubba wired up while he drank a 12-pack.

... which is what I was planning to do.


:beer:

MrPeabody
07-20-2013, 7:49pm
... which is what I was planning to do.


:beer:

It's OK, you can still drink the 12-pack.:shots:

Sea Six
07-20-2013, 7:50pm
:hurray:

JRD77VET
07-20-2013, 8:01pm
What's the deal with the "factory built-in brake controller?"

I've never heard of it.

My '01 2500 LT Suburban with a 6.0L has the factory tow package. Part of it includes a trans temp guage, trans cooler, the tow/haul mode and ( in 01 ) a factory pigtail to hook up the brake controller.

To hook up the brake controller,plugged the wire connector into the underdash fusebox, pulled the fuse from the dummy location and put it in the correct spot ( under the hood ) and it worked perfectly.

The tow/haul mode works similar to a shift kit. It holds gears longer to maximize the torque of the engine. When towing on hills, it also holds a certain gear instead of shifting back and forth. It also reduces fuel mileage.

The only (minor) concern with that truck is the milage. But for your limited use it shouldn't be a problem. I would insist on a short warranty just to make sure you're not getting snookered. He's been registered on ebay since sept 2012 but has zero feedback.

MrPeabody
07-20-2013, 8:05pm
My '01 2500 LT Suburban with a 6.0L has the factory tow package. Part of it includes a trans temp guage, trans cooler, the tow/haul mode and ( in 01 ) a factory pigtail to hook up the brake controller.

To hook up the brake controller,plugged the wire connector into the underdash fusebox, pulled the fuse from the dummy location and put it in the correct spot ( under the hood ) and it worked perfectly.

The tow/haul mode works similar to a shift kit. It holds gears longer to maximize the torque of the engine. When towing on hills, it also holds a certain gear instead of shifting back and forth. It also reduces fuel mileage.

The only (minor) concern with that truck is the milage. But for your limited use it shouldn't be a problem. I would insist on a short warranty just to make sure you're not getting snookered. He's been registered on ebay since sept 2012 but has zero feedback.

I can't remember, did it come with an actual brake controller or just the pigtail? I was selling these trucks in '01.

And that's a good description of the Towhaul feature. On the Fords and Dodges, that button on the end of the shift lever just cancelled the overdrive. This does much more.

JRD77VET
07-20-2013, 8:08pm
I can't remember, did it come with an actual brake controller or just the pigtail? I was selling these trucks in '01.

And that's a good description of the Towhaul feature. On the Fords and Dodges, that button on the end of the shift lever just cancelled the overdrive. This does much more.

Mine had the pigtail in the back "glovebox". I can tow in OD with mine :seasix: ( states so in the manual, I checked )

MrPeabody
07-20-2013, 8:10pm
Mine had the pigtail in the back "glovebox". I can tow in OD with mine :seasix: ( states so in the manual, I checked )

Correct. I did not mean to imply that you couldn't tow in overdrive.

JRD77VET
07-20-2013, 8:13pm
Correct. I did not mean to imply that you couldn't tow in overdrive.

In my '90 suburban ( 1500 w/ 5.7 ) towing in OD would have let all the magic smoke out of the transmission. :willy:

Always check to see what the manufacturer has written in the manual :yesnod:

Stangkiller
07-20-2013, 8:29pm
Man that regular cab sucks for driving around, but that truck should do the job.

btw it's the new body style not old.

FasterTraffic
07-20-2013, 8:45pm
What's the deal with the "factory built-in brake controller?"

I've never heard of it.

It's required if you want to pull tandem trailors, like a boat and a pair of Sea-Doos.

vetteman9368
07-20-2013, 10:44pm
This one is not an HD..its a regular 2500, basically..a Heavy Halfton...or 1500HD..

All 2500's are HD's. the 6.0 motor is not underwhelming. It does very well. It's a little more rev happy than a 454 but it has plenty of power. Clark, I think that would be a great tow vehicle.

vetteman9368
07-20-2013, 10:49pm
Power on the Vortec 6000 was 300hp/360tq....

Later 6.2 Liter versions made 403hp/415tq

The old 5700 made 255hp/330tq

Whereas the diesels are making 500tq, and the big blocks are like 440tq...

6 Liter, to me, has no business in front of a big load, but thats just me..your mileage may vary wildly...i know they get shitty mileage towing, worst than a big block.

You could not be more wrong.

My dad had an 02 2500 6.0. It towed our 40' enclosed race car trailer just fine, got 8-9mpg doing it. Got 15 unloaded. For comparison, the 2000 3500 454 got 7mpg, and aside from the dual wheels didn't pull it any better. His 2005 duramax dually gets 10-11mpg and pulls like a beast. It also gets 17-19 unloaded.

RED-85-Z51
07-20-2013, 10:52pm
All 2500's are HD's. the 6.0 motor is not underwhelming. It does very well. It's a little more rev happy than a 454 but it has plenty of power. Clark, I think that would be a great tow vehicle.

Seems like Isee alot of them badged ONLY as "2500" and they are equipped only with the 6.0, automatic, 2wd....

Similarly, the GMT400's had Lightduty 2500's and HD 2500's...

GMT800's i dunno...never liked any of em...

RED-85-Z51
07-20-2013, 11:14pm
2005 2500hd duramax (http://pensacola.craigslist.org/cto/3948133112.html)

Sea Six
07-21-2013, 5:28am
Power on the Vortec 6000 was 300hp/360tq....

Later 6.2 Liter versions made 403hp/415tq

The old 5700 made 255hp/330tq

Whereas the diesels are making 500tq, and the big blocks are like 440tq...

6 Liter, to me, has no business in front of a big load, but thats just me..your mileage may vary wildly...i know they get shitty mileage towing, worst than a big block.

This one's 353hp and 373 ft-lbs. I think it will be adequate for what I want to do.

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 9:20am
This one's 353hp and 373 ft-lbs. I think it will be adequate for what I want to do.

So go buy it and find out for sure...lol:D

vetteman9368
07-21-2013, 11:08am
So go buy it and find out for sure...lol:D

Stick to small engines RED. Leave the big truck discussion to those of us with real world practical experience with them.

Sea Six
07-21-2013, 5:06pm
I'm up here in TN to look it over tomorrow!

I took a sneak peek when I drove in an hour ago. It looks like it will work.


:hurray:

Bill
07-21-2013, 6:16pm
It's OK, you can still drink the 12-pack.:shots:

:iagree:

It'll be a long ride home....need something to make the time pass.....might as well drink.

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 6:27pm
Stick to small engines RED. Leave the big truck discussion to those of us with real world practical experience with them.

Ive driven 6.0's, 5.7's, 7.4's, Dmax's, 6.5TD's, Cummins TD's, and the 6.0 has always been underwhelming, even compared to a 5700, underwhelming...

Hell, Ive got 2 Big blocks and a small block...The small block has power, and can tow, but the BB's just do the same work so effortlessly...:cert:

RedLS1GTO
07-21-2013, 7:10pm
Ive driven 6.0's, 5.7's, 7.4's, Dmax's, 6.5TD's, Cummins TD's, and the 6.0 has always been underwhelming, even compared to a 5700, underwhelming...

Hell, Ive got 2 Big blocks and a small block...The small block has power, and can tow, but the BB's just do the same work so effortlessly...:cert:

According to the last 6.0 bash thread, your experience with them consists of 1 f**ked up truck with a f**ked up load that had it sitting on the blocks in the rear.

Saying it is "underwhelming even compared to a 5700" is 100% pure crap. And yea, I say that as someone who has tens of thousands of miles towing with both a 6.0 and a 5.7.

The 6.0 is more than capable of towing anything within reason.

JRD77VET
07-21-2013, 7:18pm
Ive driven 6.0's, 5.7's, 7.4's, Dmax's, 6.5TD's, Cummins TD's, and the 6.0 has always been underwhelming, even compared to a 5700, underwhelming...

Hell, Ive got 2 Big blocks and a small block...The small block has power, and can tow, but the BB's just do the same work so effortlessly...:cert:

Lets see, I had a 5.7 in my '90 Suburban and my '01 Suburban has the 6.0L.

The 6.0L is much,much better than the 5.7 was for towing.

Towing the same boat with the same amount of stuff up to the exact same lake in Canada , taking the exact same route. Spring time with the 5.7 and fall with the 6.0L, the 6.0L was much better.

polarbear
07-21-2013, 7:58pm
Ive driven 6.0's, 5.7's, 7.4's, Dmax's, 6.5TD's, Cummins TD's, and the 6.0 has always been underwhelming, even compared to a 5700, underwhelming...

Hell, Ive got 2 Big blocks and a small block...The small block has power, and can tow, but the BB's just do the same work so effortlessly...:cert:

:iagree:

The problem isn't with the 6.0's stated HP and torque. The problem is the transmission that shifts according to a torque management program. That's a nice way of saying the 6.0 has enough power to shred the transmission unless a computer program steps in and dials back the power so the transmission can shift... and live. Forget about the advertised HP and torque- the ECM will make sure you never actually see or feel those numbers.

None of this is what you want to hear if you're looking for a tow rig. The 6.0 is better than the 5.7 was for towing- but that really isn't saying much. I wouldn't pick either for towing more than about- say- 5,000 lbs or so. Keep in mind, we have mountains here in any given direction, so any towing you do will tax whatever reserves the truck may have.

Fastguy
07-21-2013, 8:05pm
Not sure how the GM trans works but on my F250, the engine sort of shuts down between shifts to keep it from slam shifting. Every LS based truck I have driven has felt pretty strong.

vetteman9368
07-21-2013, 8:19pm
:iagree:

The problem isn't with the 6.0's stated HP and torque. The problem is the transmission that shifts according to a torque management program. That's a nice way of saying the 6.0 has enough power to shred the transmission unless a computer program steps in and dials back the power so the transmission can shift... and live. Forget about the advertised HP and torque- the ECM will make sure you never actually see or feel those numbers.

None of this is what you want to hear if you're looking for a tow rig. The 6.0 is better than the 5.7 was for towing- but that really isn't saying much. I wouldn't pick either for towing more than about- say- 5,000 lbs or so. Keep in mind, we have mountains here in any given direction, so any towing you do will tax whatever reserves the truck may have.

They sell tuners for $279

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 8:23pm
Torque Management sucks hard...A tuner told me tha7 even as far back as the 96-97 models had it, although not as pronounced at later versions, and it did serve a purpose, but...really gave the power output a kick in the dick.

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 8:30pm
Dont get me wrong, the 6.0 is a good engine, many people praise their reliability even with alot of miles, people in general dislike their mileage, towing and unloaded, as compared to previous small blocks....

polarbear
07-21-2013, 9:40pm
They sell tuners for $279

Yes they do. They also sell replacement transmissions for about $5,000 for that truck- and that's what it'll likely cost you if you use the tuner and load up a 10K trailer behind the thing. Note my comment before that the 6.0 has more than enough power to grenade that transmission without electronic intervention. In other words, the tranny isn't strong enough for the intended usage- pure and simple.

I can't emphasize strongly enough how inapropriate that truck's setup is for the intended use the OP stated.

So what works that isn't a diesel? Ford V10- 3V design only ('05 or newer) would be a good start. Actually, that's about where the gas-powered choices stop too.

vetteman9368
07-21-2013, 9:51pm
Yes they do. They also sell replacement transmissions for about $5,000 for that truck- and that's what it'll likely cost you if you use the tuner and load up a 10K trailer behind the thing. Note my comment before that the 6.0 has more than enough power to grenade that transmission without electronic intervention. In other words, the tranny isn't strong enough for the intended usage- pure and simple.

I can't emphasize strongly enough how inapropriate that truck's setup is for the intended use the OP stated.

So what works that isn't a diesel? Ford V10- 3V design only ('05 or newer) would be a good start. Actually, that's about where the gas-powered choices stop too.

My personal experience contradicts that, but whatever.

Stangkiller
07-21-2013, 9:53pm
My personal experience contradicts that, but whatever.

Those 3v v10s don't have as problematic of a valve train as the v-8's do that?

vetteman9368
07-21-2013, 10:00pm
Those 3v v10s don't have as problematic of a valve train as the v-8's do that?

I've not heard much good about them as tow vehicles. I know they SUCK in an RV. I'd venture that there are twice as many 6.0 2500HDs on the road as there are V-10 fords.

Oh-yaa
07-21-2013, 10:04pm
Was sold today at 4:27 pm pst. Did you buy it?

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 10:27pm
Dodge V10 was better than the Ford V10, my opinion. also, sad to say..the Dodge automatic was probably better than the Ford offering...

Not saying a 6.0 wont pull the load...but, in my opinion, if MPG is the same or similar...why not have more power than you need, rather than just enough?

vetteman9368
07-21-2013, 10:36pm
Dodge V10 was better than the Ford V10, my opinion. also, sad to say..the Dodge automatic was probably better than the Ford offering...

Not saying a 6.0 wont pull the load...but, in my opinion, if MPG is the same or similar...why not have more power than you need, rather than just enough?

If you're insinuating an older 454 pulls better, then you're wrong.

polarbear
07-21-2013, 10:49pm
My personal experience contradicts that, but whatever.

I'd be curious to know what you're towing and where. My recomendations for... say, Indiana (where you can see six states over the horizon) would be quite a bit different than for what we do here locally.

In my '90 suburban ( 1500 w/ 5.7 ) towing in OD would have let all the magic smoke out of the transmission. :willy:

Always check to see what the manufacturer has written in the manual :yesnod:

I had a customer get the transmission so hot on a '97 Suburban that the breather tube fused shut, then shot tranny fluid onto the exhaust, and burnt to the ground. Brand new Suburban, his wife driving (towing in O/D), on Christmas Eve no less.

Those 3v v10s don't have as problematic of a valve train as the v-8's do that?

No- the V10's shared that problem with the V8 until the switch to the 3V configuration in late '04.

I've not heard much good about them as tow vehicles. I know they SUCK in an RV. I'd venture that there are twice as many 6.0 2500HDs on the road as there are V-10 fords.

Yes, they do suck gas. But I honestly can't remember the last time I sold a gas truck (Chevy, Ford or Dodge) to tow anything larger than a decent sized ski boat. That market is almost exclusively diesel- and there are some damned good reasons for it.

*Commercial fleet manager for 30+ years with a dealer group that handled all three makes. I actually do have a little experience with this- like a few 10's of thousands of units in the field over the years. :seasix:

Dodge V10 was better than the Ford V10, my opinion. also, sad to say..the Dodge automatic was probably better than the Ford offering...

Not saying a 6.0 wont pull the load...but, in my opinion, if MPG is the same or similar...why not have more power than you need, rather than just enough?

Dodge cancelled the V10 so long ago (a decade at least) because of lack of interest.

Ford's Torqueshift is almost a clone to the Allison- it's a solid transmission. Dodge didn't really "fix" their Automatics until they switched to the Aisan unit in '07(?).

My other issue with this truck is that....


wait for it...


(flame suit on)


it's a Chevy. Ford and Dodge had much stouter chassis configurations back then than GM did (not true today, however). I've always been a fan of GM 1500 trucks (owned a few myself), but the HD book was written by Ford and Dodge.

C5Nate
07-21-2013, 10:51pm
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD

Any issues with this truck?

It's got the 6.0L gasoline engine, with 3.73 rear which puts its GVWR at 9100 (I've seen 9300 reported in other sources). My 8800 lb dry weight 5er will be just a tad over that when it's loaded... maybe 500-600 lbs over the GVWR.

If I bought this truck, I could beef up the suspension or change the rear axle ratio to get the GVWR up into the 12,000 range, but honestly I doubt I would do either mod... considering the very limited amount of towing I will be doing per year. Max trip length will be less than 200 miles one way, and typical trip will be 25-40 miles one way.

:waiting:



It will do the job just fine.

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 10:51pm
If you're insinuating an older 454 pulls better, then you're wrong.


The 454 makes more torque, at a lower rpm...

410 lbf·ft (560 N·m) at 3200 rpm



The 6.0 makes less torque, at a higher rpm.

375 lb·ft (508 N·m) at 4400 rpm

Now, if you like to rev the tits out of your engine to get to peak torque, thats fine. If Im in 3rd gear pulling 8000lbs, turning 2500 rpms, im just under peak output, rolling into the throttle and coming out of TCC lockup will put me near my peak, pull out..pass, or go up an incline..no downshifting, no flooring it, no drama and added stress to the trans and rearend.

I hate pulling with my 5.7 (200hp/300tq), I can be in 3rd..and go up in incline, it jumps from 2000 to 3500 on the downshift..and holds that speed all the way up the hill...its not hurting anything, but..its added and undo stress, if I just had a touch more power.

Anyone got a stock power curve for the Vortec 6000 and 7400?

polarbear
07-21-2013, 10:58pm
The 454 makes more torque, at a lower rpm...

410 lbf·ft (560 N·m) at 3200 rpm



The 6.0 makes less torque, at a higher rpm.

375 lb·ft (508 N·m) at 4400 rpm

Now, if you like to rev the tits out of your engine to get to peak torque, thats fine. If Im in 3rd gear pulling 8000lbs, turning 2500 rpms, im just under peak output, rolling into the throttle and coming out of TCC lockup will put me near my peak, pull out..pass, or go up an incline..no downshifting, no flooring it, no drama and added stress to the trans and rearend.

I hate pulling with my 5.7 (200hp/300tq), I can be in 3rd..and go up in incline, it jumps from 2000 to 3500 on the downshift..and holds that speed all the way up the hill...its not hurting anything, but..its added and undo stress, if I just had a touch more power.

Anyone got a stock power curve for the Vortec 6000 and 7400?

Now compare those numbers to a '04 duramax.

310HP @ 3000 rpm
520 ft/lb torque @ 1600 rpm. (Currently at 765 ft/lb torque @ 1600 rpm)

There's the simple answer to why diesel is the pulling motor of choice.

http://www.duramaxdieselspecs.com/duramax-timeline.html

C5Nate
07-21-2013, 11:02pm
it's a Chevy. Ford and Dodge had much stouter chassis configurations back then than GM did (not true today, however). I've always been a fan of GM 1500 trucks (owned a few myself), but the HD book was written by Ford and Dodge.


I have never heard of any frame related issues with the GM's, never.

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 11:05pm
Now compare those numbers to a '04 duramax.

310HP @ 3000 rpm
520 ft/lb torque @ 1600 rpm. (Currently at 765 ft/lb torque @ 1600 rpm)

There's the simple answer to why diesel is the pulling motor of choice.

Duramax Diesel Timeline (http://www.duramaxdieselspecs.com/duramax-timeline.html)

No doubt, the power from the diesels is awesome...but the price of upkeep, and the massive initial cost, as well as the crippling repair costs, drives people away that are not into severe hardcore towing...or tractor pulling/drag racing.

polarbear
07-21-2013, 11:08pm
I have never heard of any frame related issues with the GM's, never.

I was referring to the entire chassis setup, not the frame. I had two customers with cab-over campers (one on a Chevy duallie) trade for Ford F350 single-wheel trucks because of stability issues at freeway speeds. I should note both were 4X4's (IFS, I suspect, was part of the issue).

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 11:14pm
Could have been the increase in COG with the camper, on an already taller 4X4 truck? Ive never experienced a stability issue or heard of anyone having a stability issue with an IFS GM truck, excluding badly lifted trucks.

polarbear
07-21-2013, 11:16pm
No doubt, the power from the diesels is awesome...but the price of upkeep, and the massive initial cost, as well as the crippling repair costs, drives people away that are not into severe hardcore towing...or tractor pulling/drag racing.

upkeep: more oil, more frequent changes.

initial cost- no argument there

repair costs:. Serious? Low upkeep/maintenance costs and superior durability are the key selling points to the older diesels. That, and they'll almost double the mileage you can get on a larger V8 gasser. Now build a diesel up, add a tuner and a lift, and yeah.... it's gonna cost. But for normal users? (Exclude a Ford 6.0 from this generalization- that's a separate issue entirely).

C5Nate
07-21-2013, 11:18pm
I was referring to the entire chassis setup, not the frame. I had two customers with cab-over campers (one on a Chevy duallie) trade for Ford F350 single-wheel trucks because of stability issues at freeway speeds. I should note both were 4X4's (IFS, I suspect, was part of the issue).


Guess nobody looked at the tires which is usually culprit for any stability issues on any truck?

C5Nate
07-21-2013, 11:21pm
upkeep: more oil, more frequent changes.

initial cost- no argument there

repair costs:. Serious? Low upkeep/maintenance costs and superior durability are the key selling points to the older diesels. That, and they'll almost double the mileage you can get on a larger V8 gasser. Now build a diesel up, add a tuner and a lift, and yeah.... it's gonna cost. But for normal users? (Exclude a Ford 6.0 from this generalization- that's a separate issue entirely).

:iagree:


Except more frequent on the oil changes. I run Mobil Syn in mine and change out every 10k miles. Over 200k on mine now and no issues. The first 6 oil changes I had the oil analyzed. The charts showed that it could probably go another 3-5k.

Changed all spin on filters at 10k, fuel, transmission, engine oil.

RED-85-Z51
07-21-2013, 11:40pm
upkeep: more oil, more frequent changes.

initial cost- no argument there

repair costs:. Serious? Low upkeep/maintenance costs and superior durability are the key selling points to the older diesels. That, and they'll almost double the mileage you can get on a larger V8 gasser. Now build a diesel up, add a tuner and a lift, and yeah.... it's gonna cost. But for normal users? (Exclude a Ford 6.0 from this generalization- that's a separate issue entirely).

To me, the last reliable Diesel was sold in Early 98, Cummins 6BT..mechanical everything. too much electronics on current/modern diesels...but, im old school.

polarbear
07-22-2013, 1:13am
Guess nobody looked at the tires which is usually culprit for any stability issues on any truck?

My first suggestion. Seriously though- good trucks, but put a big camper on top and hang a decent sized boat off of the back, and there really is a difference. A few years ago, I used to say if we lived in perfect, a HD truck would be a Ford SD with a Duramax/Allison combination. And Toyota would assemble it.:rofl:

vetteman9368
07-22-2013, 7:39am
I'd be curious to know what you're towing and where. My recomendations for... say, Indiana (where you can see six states over the horizon) would be quite a bit different than for what we do here locally.



I had a customer get the transmission so hot on a '97 Suburban that the breather tube fused shut, then shot tranny fluid onto the exhaust, and burnt to the ground. Brand new Suburban, his wife driving (towing in O/D), on Christmas Eve no less.



No- the V10's shared that problem with the V8 until the switch to the 3V configuration in late '04.



Yes, they do suck gas. But I honestly can't remember the last time I sold a gas truck (Chevy, Ford or Dodge) to tow anything larger than a decent sized ski boat. That market is almost exclusively diesel- and there are some damned good reasons for it.

*Commercial fleet manager for 30+ years with a dealer group that handled all three makes. I actually do have a little experience with this- like a few 10's of thousands of units in the field over the years. :seasix:



Dodge cancelled the V10 so long ago (a decade at least) because of lack of interest.

Ford's Torqueshift is almost a clone to the Allison- it's a solid transmission. Dodge didn't really "fix" their Automatics until they switched to the Aisan unit in '07(?).

My other issue with this truck is that....


wait for it...


(flame suit on)


it's a Chevy. Ford and Dodge had much stouter chassis configurations back then than GM did (not true today, however). I've always been a fan of GM 1500 trucks (owned a few myself), but the HD book was written by Ford and Dodge.

I drag race, I'm also a contractor. I rub shoulders every day with people who buy 3/4-1 ton trucks and use the crap out of them. Dodge wrote a book HD trucks alright, it's called "how to sell a cummins engine, wrapped in a pile of crap". I know no one who has bought a dodge and been happy with it over the long haul. I have several friends who have had fords and have traded for duramax trucks. The fords are pretty good trucks, they have a huge cab. That's something GM should have done. Ford's mistake has been playing musical diesels, as opposed to evolving a platform that worked well. Aside from the early injector issues, the duramax has been a very problem free platform. As to the stability issue you speak of, we pull a 40' enclosed race car trailer that tips the scales at close to 13k lbs loaded, and I have never once had a stability issue. As a matter of fact with the 05 duramax dually, you can just about forget that it's behind you.

RedLS1GTO
07-22-2013, 8:05am
Dodge wrote a book HD trucks alright, it's called "how to sell a cummins engine, wrapped in a pile of crap".

:rofl:

C5SilverBullet
07-22-2013, 9:21am
That truck is right down the road from Dixie.

C5SilverBullet
07-22-2013, 9:22am
This one is not an HD..its a regular 2500, basically..a Heavy Halfton...or 1500HD..

Not only do they not make a non HD 2500, but then there is this...

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$T2eC16FHJH4FHegt3csVBR5DCGjS6g~~_4.JPG

Superstreet
07-22-2013, 9:39am
upkeep: more oil, more frequent changes.

initial cost- no argument there

repair costs:. Serious? Low upkeep/maintenance costs and superior durability are the key selling points to the older diesels. That, and they'll almost double the mileage you can get on a larger V8 gasser. Now build a diesel up, add a tuner and a lift, and yeah.... it's gonna cost. But for normal users? (Exclude a Ford 6.0 from this generalization- that's a separate issue entirely).



:iagree:


Except more frequent on the oil changes. I run Mobil Syn in mine and change out every 10k miles. Over 200k on mine now and no issues. The first 6 oil changes I had the oil analyzed. The charts showed that it could probably go another 3-5k.

Changed all spin on filters at 10k, fuel, transmission, engine oil.

:iagree: I have an '02 Duramax CC dually 4x4 and run full synthetic in the crankcase and the transmission. Other than the usual preventative maintenance,I have had no issues or repairs.

The initial cost of a diesel is more,but you can get your money back out of it.

Stangkiller
07-22-2013, 2:44pm
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt228/stangkiller17/Randomness/null_zpsb39e6e3f.jpg

And there it is! 51' of pure white towing power.

bradc6
07-22-2013, 2:45pm
:hurray:

MrPeabody
07-22-2013, 2:51pm
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt228/stangkiller17/Randomness/null_zpsb39e6e3f.jpg

And there it is! 45' of pure white towing power.
Damn, you could carry a lot of free candy in a van like that.:lol:

FasterTraffic
07-22-2013, 3:00pm
And there it is! 45' of pure white towing power.

That picture is like putting the Bat signal out for mrvette.

Oh-yaa
07-22-2013, 3:01pm
:rofl:

Originally Posted by vetteman9368
Dodge wrote a book HD trucks alright, it's called "how to sell a cummins engine, wrapped in a pile of crap".

I wish someone would explain the "pile of crap" comments regarding the Dodge. I have one and not sure what to look for.
It's a 2002 with the Cummins, no rust, everything works as it should from the front turn signals to the trailer harness plug. Has only needed normal maintenance so far. It did require a lift pump and injector pump because the previous owner had it sitting for so long the tank sludged up and it ran dry a couple of times.
I had a 95 Yukon that liked more maintenance items than the Dodge so far. It also ate a transmission at about 70,000 miles.
Seems if reasonable normal maintenance is provided any truck should last quite a while. Unless you live in rust prone areas, then nothing is going to survive.

Sea Six
07-22-2013, 3:01pm
52'

Stangkiller
07-22-2013, 3:02pm
52'

Damn, my first guess was 50' then i edited it to 45' after figuring 20' for the van and 25 for the trailer.

RED-85-Z51
07-22-2013, 3:04pm
Originally Posted by vetteman9368
Dodge wrote a book HD trucks alright, it's called "how to sell a cummins engine, wrapped in a pile of crap".

I wish someone would explain the "pile of crap" comments regarding the Dodge. I have one and not sure what to look for.
It's a 2002 with the Cummins, no rust, everything works as it should from the front turn signals to the trailer harness plug. Has only needed normal maintenance so far. It did require a lift pump and injector pump because the previous owner had it sitting for so long the tank sludged up and it ran dry a couple of times.
I had a 95 Yukon that liked more maintenance items than the Dodge so far. It also ate a transmission at about 70,000 miles.
Seems if reasonable normal maintenance is provided any truck should last quite a while. Unless you live in rust prone areas, then nothing is going to survive.

I liked my 98 Ram, and I have a ton of customers who drive 12 and 24 valve cummins dodges, and they wouldnt have anything but that truck.

Oh-yaa
07-22-2013, 3:04pm
52'

So you did end up with it. Congrats!

Yamma
07-22-2013, 3:16pm
52'

Good to see you are still awake after I kept you up late last night drinking high gravity beers. :D

RED-85-Z51
07-22-2013, 3:16pm
Damn, my first guess was 50' then i edited it to 45' after figuring 20' for the van and 25 for the trailer.

For real, My 3500/Ex-Cab, long bed, with 16 foot trailer rolls out at like 44 feet, and its....a handful.

Stangkiller
07-22-2013, 3:38pm
Some better pictures....
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt228/stangkiller17/Randomness/null_zps15d213ff.jpg

Am I the only person wondering how many tennis balls Molly's got in her mouth at the bottom of this picture?
I'm also beginning to think this van will haul past anything except every other gas station, and candy stores that is. :leaving:
http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt228/stangkiller17/Randomness/null_zps49311dfd.jpg

justind
07-22-2013, 4:05pm
That is a damn van. :D

RED-85-Z51
07-22-2013, 4:47pm
That feeling when you realize you are trying to pull off and your tongue jack is still down...

MrPeabody
07-22-2013, 5:06pm
For real, My 3500/Ex-Cab, long bed, with 16 foot trailer rolls out at like 44 feet, and its....a handful.

Childs play. A real man like NNialateher would add a boat behind it.

Frizzle
07-22-2013, 5:08pm
Originally Posted by vetteman9368
Dodge wrote a book HD trucks alright, it's called "how to sell a cummins engine, wrapped in a pile of crap".

I wish someone would explain the "pile of crap" comments regarding the Dodge. I have one and not sure what to look for.
It's a 2002 with the Cummins, no rust, everything works as it should from the front turn signals to the trailer harness plug. Has only needed normal maintenance so far. It did require a lift pump and injector pump because the previous owner had it sitting for so long the tank sludged up and it ran dry a couple of times.
I had a 95 Yukon that liked more maintenance items than the Dodge so far. It also ate a transmission at about 70,000 miles.
Seems if reasonable normal maintenance is provided any truck should last quite a while. Unless you live in rust prone areas, then nothing is going to survive.

Weak rears... rust is a problem on dodges along the lower doors. Those are common issues. Since you live in NV it seems like

I work in industrial/commercial construction. Out of 20 work trucks you would see on the job 17 would be Ford F-250+ 2 would be GM/Chevy and 1 Would be dodge. Years of the trucks vary but you hardly ever see old Dodge trucks compared to GM and Ford.


BTW sea six looks like a nice truck :seasix:

C5Nate
07-22-2013, 5:53pm
Originally Posted by vetteman9368
Dodge wrote a book HD trucks alright, it's called "how to sell a cummins engine, wrapped in a pile of crap".

I wish someone would explain the "pile of crap" comments regarding the Dodge. I have one and not sure what to look for.
.

I have a '98 12 valve, not sure if there is enough room on this page for the list of problems. The Cummins has been pretty solid, nothing outside of what any other diesel may have but thats about where it ends. OBTW, I have the 5 spd hand shaker not the automatic thank God, but I've had issues with 5th gear on mine.

Oh-yaa
07-22-2013, 6:26pm
Still getting the 5th wheel in October? Plenty of time to get the hitch and other goodies together for towing. Don't forget to post pics when the whole setup is together.

Sea Six
07-22-2013, 7:03pm
Still getting the 5th wheel in October? Plenty of time to get the hitch and other goodies together for towing. Don't forget to post pics when the whole setup is together.

Getting it around the end of this month. He is getting it to me earlier. Hence the need for a NNNew tow vehicle. :D

Sea Six
07-22-2013, 9:50pm
Ok... got it off the trailer... first impression?








Holy CRAP! Man, the suspension in this thing is HARSH!! I bet I can run over a dime and tell if it's heads or tails.


'Course, that's what I wanted. :coolest:

For towing my new-to-me fifth wheel (and shit). :)

RED-85-Z51
07-22-2013, 10:06pm
Shouldnt be too harsh, being a 2wd 2500. Check tire pressures, and consider new shocks...

C5Nate
07-22-2013, 10:08pm
Shouldnt be too harsh, being a 2wd 2500. Check tire pressures, and consider new shocks...


:iagree:

Factory specs are around 80 psi. I run mine at 55 unless I have a load on it.

RED-85-Z51
07-22-2013, 10:10pm
Reminds me, My neighbor had, like a 2008 Lincoln Mark LT, bought it from a dealer, under 25K miles when he got it 2 years ago, clean car fax, truck was pristine and drove like a dream. He put about 40K miles on it in the past couple years...

He got hit hard the other day and the whole ass end of the truck folded up like a cheap lawn chair...

Apparently..the truck got hit hard before, and they heated and beat the frame straight, then...applied a large amount of bondo the frame, and painted it black...

He was okay, but shaken up. The truck that hit him was totalled out....and of course the Lincoln was totalled....He got 19K for it or thereabouts. Bought a 2010 Tundra 4dr, 4wd, 5.7L V8...he said hes getting about 9mpg...holy shit.

RED-85-Z51
07-22-2013, 10:12pm
:iagree:

Factory specs are around 80 psi. I run mine at 55 unless I have a load on it.

If he wants to see harsh, my K1500 has LT285/75/16's on it, at 65psi, and the front keys replaced with 2500 keys, and cranked up...speed bumps are attacked at 5mph...and any ruts are to be carefully avoided...unless you want to come off of it dukes of hazzard style. But, im used to it now, a softer ride feels funny...:D

C5Nate
07-22-2013, 10:19pm
If he wants to see harsh, my K1500 has LT285/75/16's on it, at 65psi, and the front keys replaced with 2500 keys, and cranked up...speed bumps are attacked at 5mph...and any ruts are to be carefully avoided...unless you want to come off of it dukes of hazzard style. But, im used to it now, a softer ride feels funny...:D


Hmmm, my 2500 running 285/75/16's and cranked 7 full still rides good unless I have the tires up to 80 psi. At 55-60 there is a big difference. But, I am carrying a lot more weight at 7200 wet, unloaded.

RED-85-Z51
07-22-2013, 10:44pm
The K1500 is a Reg cab, short stepside, 350...its relatively light....Its a bastard over speed bumps. Go too fast and you can feel it compress, then rebound to the jounce stops, then the tires hit the ground...

Probably still has stock Bilsteins on it up front though...I know the rears are Bilsteins still.

I dunno...everyone said my CV's would blow apart, but, Ive put a few thousand on it, and Ive had all 4 tires spinning more than once pulling out a stump...it didnt seem to mind it. My CV angle would make some people vomit..lol

RedLS1GTO
07-23-2013, 7:16am
Holy CRAP! Man, the suspension in this thing is HARSH!! I bet I can run over a dime and tell if it's heads or tails.

My '10 2500 was pretty harsh when empty as well. It wasn't terrible or unbearable, but it definitely rode like a truck and was a big change from the Yukon I had been driving. Yours is probably even a bit worse being a regular cab with less weight. That harshness seemed to translate pretty well when you loaded it up. When loaded, I was always pretty close to level, not squatting. A friend's Dodge rode much smoother empty, but squatted WAY worse when loaded with similar weight. Pick your poison I guess.


In comparison my big 3500 Denai diesel rides like a Cadillac. :cool:

C5Nate
07-23-2013, 9:58am
The K1500 is a Reg cab, short stepside, 350...its relatively light....Its a bastard over speed bumps. Go too fast and you can feel it compress, then rebound to the jounce stops, then the tires hit the ground...






In comparison my big 3500 Denai diesel rides like a Cadillac. :cool:

:yesnod: Yep, the longer the frame the better the ride. I was going for the Crew Cab long bed when I bought mine but when I took it home for the test drive, it would not fit in the garage with the '69 Z/28 in front of it but the Crew Cab standard bed did fit.

Sea Six
07-27-2013, 10:40am
:iagree:

The problem isn't with the 6.0's stated HP and torque. The problem is the transmission that shifts according to a torque management program. That's a nice way of saying the 6.0 has enough power to shred the transmission unless a computer program steps in and dials back the power so the transmission can shift... and live. Forget about the advertised HP and torque- the ECM will make sure you never actually see or feel those numbers.

None of this is what you want to hear if you're looking for a tow rig. The 6.0 is better than the 5.7 was for towing- but that really isn't saying much. I wouldn't pick either for towing more than about- say- 5,000 lbs or so. Keep in mind, we have mountains here in any given direction, so any towing you do will tax whatever reserves the truck may have.

Yes they do. They also sell replacement transmissions for about $5,000 for that truck- and that's what it'll likely cost you if you use the tuner and load up a 10K trailer behind the thing. Note my comment before that the 6.0 has more than enough power to grenade that transmission without electronic intervention. In other words, the tranny isn't strong enough for the intended usage- pure and simple.

I can't emphasize strongly enough how inapropriate that truck's setup is for the intended use the OP stated.

So what works that isn't a diesel? Ford V10- 3V design only ('05 or newer) would be a good start. Actually, that's about where the gas-powered choices stop too.

The transmission is the X16R transmission. It's rated at 452 horsepower / 520 foot-lbs of torque.

My 6.0L Vortec is rated at 353 hp and 373 ft-lbs. It does have both a transmission cooler and an oil cooler.

PolarBear, do you still think this transmission is going to be a problem?

Should I upgrade the transmission cooler? Or add a second transmission cooler (is that possible)?

Sea Six
07-28-2013, 4:08pm
Bump for transmission conflagration

Sea Six
07-28-2013, 4:09pm
Page 2!



:woohoo:

C5Nate
07-28-2013, 5:24pm
PolarBear, do you still think this transmission is going to be a problem?

Should I upgrade the transmission cooler? Or add a second transmission cooler (is that possible)?

Bump for transmission conflagration



:skia:

Sea Six
07-28-2013, 6:02pm
:skia:

PolarBear, being the one naysayer in this entire thread, had some specific comments that indicate he thinks this transmission isn't capable of towing my 8800 lb dry-weight (10,000 loaded) fifth wheel camper.

Now that I have information about my transmission, I would like to know if he still thinks I'm going to be in trouble with this rig.

:seasix:

RedLS1GTO
07-28-2013, 6:32pm
PolarBear, being the one naysayer in this entire thread, had some specific comments that indicate he thinks this transmission isn't capable of towing my 8800 lb dry-weight (10,000 loaded) fifth wheel camper.

Now that I have information about my transmission, I would like to know if he still thinks I'm going to be in trouble with this rig.

:seasix:

What's the listed rating for the '07? (I'm too lazy to look it up).

As someone generally on the pro-6.0 side of the argument after nothing but great work from mine for thousands of towing miles, I will stick with my original statement (maybe in the last thread?) that 10k might really be pushing it. The 3.73 is what scares me. My '10 did great. The most I ever had on it was about 7k or so and it did it with ease. My trans never got even close to too hot or shifted excessively ...but it also had the 4.10. Not sure how much extra strain the 3.73 will add on the trans with a big load like that.

Sea Six
07-28-2013, 6:44pm
The transmission is the X16R transmission. It's rated at 452 horsepower / 520 foot-lbs of torque.

My 6.0L Vortec is rated at 353 hp and 373 ft-lbs. It does have both a transmission cooler and an oil cooler.

PolarBear, do you still think this transmission is going to be a problem?

Should I upgrade the transmission cooler? Or add a second transmission cooler (is that possible)?



:waiting:

RED-85-Z51
07-28-2013, 10:09pm
PolarBear, being the one naysayer in this entire thread, had some specific comments that indicate he thinks this transmission isn't capable of towing my 8800 lb dry-weight (10,000 loaded) fifth wheel camper.

Now that I have information about my transmission, I would like to know if he still thinks I'm going to be in trouble with this rig.

:seasix:

No, he was not the only nay-sayer....I think I was also pretty high up there on the nay-sayer list...Im not sure what will shit the bed first...the engine, or the trans.

MrPeabody
07-28-2013, 10:13pm
:waiting:

He's not your dancing monkey. :lol:

a little joke that the PR&C crowd will get

RedLS1GTO
07-28-2013, 10:24pm
No, he was not the only nay-sayer....I think I was also pretty high up there on the nay-sayer list...Im not sure what will shit the bed first...the engine, or the trans.

Uhhhhhhh... big difference between PolarBear saying that this exact trailer might be too much weight... which is a very legitimate concern... and your blanket "all 6.0s suck" "feels like a V6" "worse than a 5.7" "won't tow a small trailer" "I drove one once and I know a guy" crap.

RED-85-Z51
07-28-2013, 10:30pm
Uhhhhhhh... big difference between PolarBear saying that this exact trailer might be too much weight... which is a very legitimate concern... and your blanket "all 6.0s suck" "feels like a V6" "worse than a 5.7" "won't tow a small trailer" "I drove one once and I know a guy" crap.

Uhhhhh, too much weight vs not enough truck is 6 of one, and half a dozen of the other...

I have driven 6.0's, loaded and unloaded, and they feel , to me, the same as a 5.7 (Vortec 5700), and they do obviously make more power. i noted my concern as, the need for the 6.0 to wind up to make its power, vs other engines making more power at a much lower engine speed. When you have 10K hooked to a truck and it downshifts on a hill, its a tremendous load on everything...do it enough and shit will break.

As I said...as far as comfort zone, id rather have a little more truck than I need, than not enough.

RedLS1GTO
07-28-2013, 10:46pm
Uhhhhh, too much weight vs not enough truck is 6 of one, and half a dozen of the other...

I have driven 6.0's, loaded and unloaded, and they feel , to me, the same as a 5.7 (Vortec 5700), and they do obviously make more power. i noted my concern as, the need for the 6.0 to wind up to make its power, vs other engines making more power at a much lower engine speed. When you have 10K hooked to a truck and it downshifts on a hill, its a tremendous load on everything...do it enough and shit will break.

As I said...as far as comfort zone, id rather have a little more truck than I need, than not enough.

Your comments had NOTHING to do with a 10k trailer being too large. Your entire argument was nothing but blanket comments about how awful the 6.0 was, how it doesn't have enough power, "felt like a damn V6" and that your friend blew up 2 transmissions towing loads well within the recommended towing capacity.

...and realized its no fun being :that guy: laboring his shit to leave a stop light on a slight incline...

...the 6.0 is out of breath going up a hill. He hooks up to his larger dump trailer...and puts some dirt or sod in it (not alot mind you) and the 6.0 is done...

The trailer with the 2K mower on it, probably weighs about 4000 total...and it gives it a work out. ...but it just lacks balls.

Ive driven his truck to feel it, and it feels likes it got a damn V6 under the hood...

You really think that this crap is same as PolarBear's comment? :skep:



I'm not about to have this same ridiculous argument... again. :seeya:

RED-85-Z51
07-28-2013, 11:13pm
When the truck is on the side of the road, hood up..with its tongue hanging out...the argument is a moot point when the end result is the same.

That said, I hope it pulls it without issue...

polarbear
07-29-2013, 7:56am
Bump for transmission conflagration

You guys are forgetting something. I live in a place that's bordered by the Cascade range to the East, the Coast Range to the West, and the Siskiyous to the South. Any towing is going to include a climb from sealevel to anywhere from 4,000-5200 ft. in about 20 miles unless I'm headed north to Seattle. Those climbs will change your opinion in a heartbeat over what's "adaquate" as a tow rig. And any naturally-aspirated motor is at a disadvantage at those altitudes. Even the big blocks feel like half the ponies got left behind in the valley.

So, back to the question at hand. Does the transmission need another cooler? Maybe not- you live in a state where you can see two oceans and six states on the horizon, if you can get above tree level. There's a transmission temp indicator built in, so you can monitor trans temperatures as you drive.

That transmission is a Hydramatic 6L80 or 6L90. It's got a good rep as far as being stout, but it's going to shift a lot under load.

Sea Six
07-29-2013, 8:40am
Thanks for getting back, PB. :seasix:

I've got the 6L80 I believe. I know the RPO code on the dash glovebox traces specifically to the X16R, which is the highest rated of the ones that make up the 6L80 designation.

Here in FL, the highest point is 345 feet. It takes about three counties to get from sea level to that point. :funny:

Y2Kvert4me
07-29-2013, 10:16am
The 6L90e is the HD version, and is what your 2500 should have.

You should have one of the following RPOs:

MYC = 6L80e
or
MYD = 6L90e


:cert:

RedLS1GTO
07-29-2013, 10:33am
You guys are forgetting something. I live in a place that's bordered by the Cascade range to the East, the Coast Range to the West, and the Siskiyous to the South. Any towing is going to include a climb from sealevel to anywhere from 4,000-5200 ft. in about 20 miles unless I'm headed north to Seattle. Those climbs will change your opinion in a heartbeat over what's "adaquate" as a tow rig. And any naturally-aspirated motor is at a disadvantage at those altitudes. Even the big blocks feel like half the ponies got left behind in the valley.

This is where the "what are you using it for" question becomes VERY important and blanket statements "this sucks" or "this is great" are completely useless.

Many times on the flat highways in Indiana I towed almost 8k lbs with a V6 Olds Bravada. Yea, obviously not the "right" vehicle for the job, but it's what I had available at the time. At 250k miles and 2 owners later, it was still on the original engine, trans, transfer case, etc and going strong. I have no doubt that it would take about a mile before it nuked itself into shrapenal with that same load in the mountains. Driving style and all sorts of things play in. If you are the guy that launches a truck like you are at the drag strip and wants to go 80mph through the mountains, your version of "adequate" is MUCH different than someone who is easier on the truck. Hence the countless examples of how some people can chew through parts and constantly break stuff while others can go forever hauling the same loads and never have a single issue. Say what you want, one of... if not THE biggest variables in truck towing reliability is the guy behind the wheel.



I decided to do some looking. For 2007, I couldn't find a tow rating for the "new style" 2500HD, 2wd regular cab long bed with the 6.0L and 3.73s in it. (Remember that the switch to the new body style happened in 2007 so there are both "new" and "old" style 2007s out there with completely different capabilities) The 4.10 version however was rated at 12,900lbs.

When I looked at the 2008 ratings, the 4.10 is still the 12,900 (so I assume the rest stayed the same). The 6.0L with 3.73s was rated at 10,400lbs total trailer weight.

http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Trailer-Life-Towing-Guide-2007.pdf

http://rvcenters.com/console/storage/documents/136364513283693.pdf

Long story short, you are WAY up at the top of what is recommended for that configuration. If it was me, I would put a set of 4.10s in it, obviously use a good weight distributing hitch, and add a trans cooler. None of those are going to break the bank and all will make your life a lot better on the road. The 6.0 itself will be just fine unless as PB said you are climbing into very high altitudes (where ANY gasser is going to have a hard time).

Sea Six
07-29-2013, 11:06am
The 6L90e is the HD version, and is what your 2500 should have.

You should have one of the following RPOs:

MYC = 6L80e
or
MYD = 6L90e


:cert:

Oops.

You're right. It's the MLD, which is the 6L90E.


:cheers:

RED-85-Z51
07-29-2013, 8:56pm
I cant wait until he hitches up and gives up his first impression/pics/vids....

polarbear
07-29-2013, 11:07pm
I'm trying to imagine this truck on any kind of incline. Our shuttle van is a '13 Chevy 3500 with the 6.0, a Tow pkg, and 3.73 gears (along with about every other available option). Put 10-12 peeps inside of it (it's a 12 pass), and it has to work to get where it's going. I won't go so far as to say it's underpowered, but it could really use an extra 50-100 HP on that steep hill coming out of downtown heading toward the west side. That's with only roughly a ton of payload. By comparison, my diesel Jetta is a race car on the same hill.

RED-85-Z51
07-29-2013, 11:50pm
I'm trying to imagine this truck on any kind of incline. Our shuttle van is a '13 Chevy 3500 with the 6.0, a Tow pkg, and 3.73 gears (along with about every other available option). Put 10-12 peeps inside of it (it's a 12 pass), and it has to work to get where it's going. I won't go so far as to say it's underpowered, but it could really use an extra 50-100 HP on that steep hill coming out of downtown heading toward the west side. That's with only roughly a ton of payload. By comparison, my diesel Jetta is a race car on the same hill.


Back years ago my dad pulled a smallish camper with a V6 Astro Van, with load levelers, etc..it pulled it fine up I65...until we hit the 1st little rolling hill then the 4.3 was taxed out, no power in Drive, it was dropping to 2nd at the slightest hint of an incline. That was like, 230ft/lbs id guess...upgraded to 330ft/lbs with the 98 ram, added about another 2000lbs of camper, and the ram pulled it well enough, but it downshifted on the same hills, and was still working hard...Its bee nyears but I think that camper was like 7000lbs, and the truck weas rated for 8100. It pulled it..but it was working.

Now, add another what...3000lbs or more...and another what..35ft/lbs?...this 6.0 is going to be in a mess if there is an incline. Imagine stopping on a hill in town at a light or something...with 3.73 gears and under 400ft/lbs..and nearly 6 tons hanging off its ass....I wouldnt want to be behind it.

Stangkiller
07-30-2013, 5:47am
Back years ago my dad pulled a smallish camper with a V6 Astro Van, with load levelers, etc..it pulled it fine up I65...until we hit the 1st little rolling hill then the 4.3 was taxed out, no power in Drive, it was dropping to 2nd at the slightest hint of an incline. That was like, 230ft/lbs id guess...upgraded to 330ft/lbs with the 98 ram, added about another 2000lbs of camper, and the ram pulled it well enough, but it downshifted on the same hills, and was still working hard...Its bee nyears but I think that camper was like 7000lbs, and the truck weas rated for 8100. It pulled it..but it was working.

Now, add another what...3000lbs or more...and another what..35ft/lbs?...this 6.0 is going to be in a mess if there is an incline. Imagine stopping on a hill in town at a light or something...with 3.73 gears and under 400ft/lbs..and nearly 6 tons hanging off its ass....I wouldnt want to be behind it.
Y'all seem to have missed the part where Clark tows it on level surface not much farther than 50miles from his home. There's no debate that this'll do a better job than the carbed 454, and for not much more money.

The additional investment required for a diesel to fit Clark's requirements was substantial. And the nice thing is this'll work for his DD, something the 454 couldn't have done.

Millenium Vette
07-30-2013, 9:29am
Y'all seem to have missed the part where Clark tows it on level surface not much farther than 50miles from his home. There's no debate that this'll do a better job than the carbed 454, and for not much more money.

The additional investment required for a diesel to fit Clark's requirements was substantial. And the nice thing is this'll work for his DD, something the 454 couldn't have done.

:iagree:

The truck will do just fine for Clark. If something does break, it can be fixed. It's not like he went out and spent $50,000 for a brand spanking new one.

:cert: