Anyone fix their microwave ?

[Grey Ghost]

Over the range/under cabinet type mount. The door latch broke a couple of yrs. ago and I fixed that part. Now, it powers up, rotates, etc...but, no heat. Is it a failure with a common part and how tough to replace ? Thanks.

[RonC5]

Mine did that, I unscrewed the 4 screws holding it to the cabinet and replaced it with a new one. The couple hundred for a new one made my choice easy.

[onedef92]

I need to replace the entire door frame bezel on mine. It's cracked. Not sure if it's a one-piece assembly or if the bezel can be purchased seperately.

[lefthander]

Sounds like the magnetron is gone. Cheaper to just buy a new one.:)

[Grey Ghost]

I need to replace the entire door frame bezel on mine. It's cracked. Not sure if it's a one-piece assembly or if the bezel can be purchased seperately.

Appliance Parts at RepairClinic. 125 Brands. 365 Day Returns. (http://www.repairclinic.com/)

or

I might be able to remove my old one if it fits yours. Freebie.

[onedef92]

Appliance Parts at RepairClinic. 125 Brands. 365 Day Returns. (http://www.repairclinic.com/)

or

I might be able to remove my old one if it fits yours. Freebie.

Thanks. That's the link I've been looking for. Mine is a black Whirlpool. Don't have make/model numbers handy, though.

[Bucwheat]

As cheap as they are now I would buy new. I replaced mine years ago (over the stove model) well I put down a packing blanket to keep from damaging the stainless stove,I kept smelling something burning while working,then smoke broke out under the blanket,I must have bumped the burner knob and I lit that blanket up.Real hard to get that burnt smell out of the house.:lol:

[onedef92]

As cheap as they are now I would buy new.

Seems like the door assembly was $125 plus shipping. You might be right....

[Grey Ghost]

Seems like the door assembly was $125 plus shipping. You might be right....

My inside door frame (Maytag) just pops out with a flat blade screwdriver. Worth a try, if they have the replacement part for cheap.

[onedef92]

My inside door frame (Maytag) just pops out with a flat blade screwdriver. Worth a try, if they have the replacement part for cheap.

I will look at that link this weekend and give it a go. Mine appears to be glued on. Is the handle bolted/screwed in place, too?

[lspencer534]

Consider this, too: Even the same brand and size may not fit in your cutout. If you have a trim kit, it almost certainly won't fit. Manufacturers have a bad habit of changing designs every few years. For instance, I had a 27" GE that I had to replace. I bought another 27" GE that would fit, although the exhaust vent was moved from the bottom to the side.

The trim opening kit had to be enlarged 1/8". That cost me another $100 to have a sheet metal shop do. I tried to file it down, but an hour of filing took off nothing. That stuff is hard. A new trim kit costs almost as much as a new microwave.

My error. My microwave is 30".

[onedef92]

Consider this, too: Even the same brand and size may not fit in your cutout. If you have a trim kit, it almost certainly won't fit. Manufacturers have a bad habit of changing designs every few years. For instance, I had a 27" GE that I had to replace. I bought another 27" GE that would fit, although the exhaust vent was moved from the bottom to the side.

The trim opening kit had to be enlarged 1/8". That cost me another $100 to have a sheet metal shop do. I tried to file it down, but an hour of filing took off nothing. That stuff is hard. A new trim kit costs almost as much as a new microwave.

Will keep that in mind. Also, is it safe to assume the electrical outlet is in the cabinet the microwave is bolted to or wired directly into the house wiring?

[Grey Ghost]

I will look at that link this weekend and give it a go. Mine appears to be glued on. Is the handle bolted/screwed in place, too?

Is yours cracked on the inside or outside ? I may have misunderstood it to be the inside.

[mrvette]

Standard range/cook top area is 30" and so over the top M/W's are 30" wide, putting one in place of a range hood is typically not a good idea as it hangs WAY to low, needs be 17" min off the range surface.....

any Certified Kitchen Designer/CKD that puts a 27" cabinet width above a cook surface is in fact against national fire code, which is somewhat of a comic in that the adjacent cabinets can catch on fire just as easy.....

We have an island range with large range hood up high, Linda can watch TV and share in family life while cooking dinner....large open space concept....no dining room eat in kitchen flows into main living room, :seasix:

M/W's these daze are cheep, even the wall hung variety....I built a deep open shelf and fancy cabinet design to hold our M/W nice and up about 15" off the counter top on the end run....so we have a counter top model....150 bux 1200 watt unit....

I remember the old LITTON INDUSTRIES unit we bought back in the early 80's paid like 800 bux for the thing, I had to put a control panel in it, and a Magnatron tube.....it quit heating up fast and so lost power....no more 20 second coffee....

:shots::seasix:

OH< one more thing, do NOT attempt to fix/replace your doors....

they are a radiation shield and as such if messed up, you can get yourself spread with M. Waves and do yourself mucho bad harm.....

back decades ago a buddy from the Navy told of some ET chief and a Cook getting into it over something, the ET guy was working on the ship's radar, the cook over rode the safety, and turned on the radar, and killed the guy....dead before he hit the deck......

[lspencer534]

Will keep that in mind. Also, is it safe to assume the electrical outlet is in the cabinet the microwave is bolted to or wired directly into the house wiring?

You will likely just have a plug-in inside right behind the microwave.

[Mirroredshades]

I bought mine in 1980. Never had a single issue. I Do get a funny twitch sometimes when i stand to close but who knows.

:funny:

[onedef92]

Is yours cracked on the inside or outside ? I may have misunderstood it to be the inside.

The outer door frame is cracked on mine. :yesnod:

[lspencer534]

I bought mine in 1980. Never had a single issue. I Do get a funny twitch sometimes when i stand to close but who knows.

:funny:

Microwaves have gremlins. I bought mine in 1990 (since replaced) and plugged it in. I had no intention of turning it on becasue there was a bag of screws inside it to secure it to the cabinet. I broke for lunch and came back to find that all the screws had been zapped.

[onedef92]

Standard range/cook top area is 30" and so over the top M/W's are 30" wide, putting one in place of a range hood is typically not a good idea as it hangs WAY to low, needs be 17" min off the range surface.....

any Certified Kitchen Designer/CKD that puts a 27" cabinet width above a cook surface is in fact against national fire code, which is somewhat of a comic in that the adjacent cabinets can catch on fire just as easy.....

We have an island range with large range hood up high, Linda can watch TV and share in family life while cooking dinner....large open space concept....no dining room eat in kitchen flows into main living room, :seasix:

M/W's these daze are cheep, even the wall hung variety....I built a deep open shelf and fancy cabinet design to hold our M/W nice and up about 15" off the counter top on the end run....so we have a counter top model....150 bux 1200 watt unit....

I remember the old LITTON INDUSTRIES unit we bought back in the early 80's paid like 800 bux for the thing, I had to put a control panel in it, and a Magnatron tube.....it quit heating up fast and so lost power....no more 20 second coffee....

:shots::seasix:

OH< one more thing, do NOT attempt to fix/replace your doors....

they are a radiation shield and as such if messed up, you can get yourself spread with M. Waves and do yourself mucho bad harm.....

back decades ago a buddy from the Navy told of some ET chief and a Cook getting into it over something, the ET guy was working on the ship's radar, the cook over rode the safety, and turned on the radar, and killed the guy....dead before he hit the deck......

The door is intact. It's the plastic outer door frame on mine that is cracked and in need of replacement. Are you saying I should not attempt to replace the door assembly with a new one? It contains the shield, too.

[Grey Ghost]

The outer door frame is cracked on mine. :yesnod:

Ah...OK. I had a counter top version that lasted for years. Then remodeled the kitchen with new cabinets. I replaced it with the over the range style. They just don't make stuff to last like they use to.

[onedef92]

Ah...OK. I had a counter top version that lasted for years. Then remodeled the kitchen with new cabinets. I replaced it with the over the range style. They just don't make stuff to last like they use to.

My Mom had a Sears countertop model that lasted 20 years. She finally got rid of it because she had to; they simply stopped carrying parts for it. Part of the blue L.E.D. display went out and became erratic so you couldn't tell what cook mode/time remaining, etc.. was entered.


http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/ac123/rtaylor188/NEW/radarange.jpg

Those old-school Amana Radaranges were bulletproof, too. Cold and starkly utilitarian in their chrome and stainless steel appearance, they would nuke the feck out of anything in short order!

[mrvette]

The door is intact. It's the plastic outer door frame on mine that is cracked and in need of replacement. Are you saying I should not attempt to replace the door assembly with a new one? It contains the shield, too.

OD, long as you damn sure what you doing, fine....

there is a reason these things are all metal lined all over, and that door in an integral safety device, that is why so many catches and switches on the latch side....got kids?? hate to hear of any funky off the wall shit happening....

150-250 bux and save yourself the effort....


:kimblair::seasix:

[onedef92]

OD, long as you damn sure what you doing, fine....

there is a reason these things are all metal lined all over, and that door in an integral safety device, that is why so many catches and switches on the latch side....got kids?? hate to hear of any funky off the wall shit happening....

150-250 bux and save yourself the effort....


:kimblair::seasix:

I, of course, defer to your infinite wisdom and experience. Honey, looks like we're gettin' a new microwave! :yesnod:

[mrvette]

I, of course, defer to your infinite wisdom and experience. Honey, looks like we're gettin' a new microwave! :yesnod:

Rather limited I"d say, in all honesty.....but I have sailed on a few canoes, and fixed a bunch of shit, and when my MW went out.....curbside and another one took it's place.....like TV sets, from decades ago, worth fixing, but today??? NO.....pitchittronics has taken over.....thank you CHINA!!!!!!


:issues::rofl:

[cdw54321]

Check with Maytag, the magnetron may still be covered under warranty. My GE (magnetron only) was covered for 10 years. I called them up, gave model # and had one sent out. Replacement was not too difficult, more of a pain getting it down.

[Bill]

Over the range/under cabinet type mount. The door latch broke a couple of yrs. ago and I fixed that part. Now, it powers up, rotates, etc...but, no heat. Is it a failure with a common part and how tough to replace ? Thanks.

It's low on dilithium crystals.

[Grey Ghost]

Check with Maytag, the magnetron may still be covered under warranty. My GE (magnetron only) was covered for 10 years. I called them up, gave model # and had one sent out. Replacement was not too difficult, more of a pain getting it down.

Thanks ! I'm thinking it is 4-5 yrs. old. It is a stainless steel model. Kinda' expensive when I bought it.