Revisiting my tractor cranking problem...

[lspencer534]

It's a Ford 3-cyl. diesel with about 50 hp. I bought it new several years ago; it has <700 hours on it. It's had an easy life since it's just used as a big lawn mower. Late last Summer it wouldn't crank; battery checked out okay, as did solenoid and starter.

Dealer said he found a corroded ground cable where it grounds to the engine. Over the Winter I cranked the engine several times to keep the battery charged and the engine excercised. Two weeks ago, same problem: Wouldn't crank, no solenoid clicks, nothing. The battery checked out bad at 8.4 volts after charging.

Called the dealer, they replaced the battery, and it cranked right up. The reason I took it to the dealer is so they could check out anything else that might be causing the problem; they said they found nothing else. Yesterday I wanted to mow, and it wouldn't crank--no clicking, lights burned brightly. I tried 5-6 times with no success. I finally held the key in the 'start' position. After about 10 sec. I got a bump from the starter, then nothing. I tried again with the same result. On the third try I got a weak starter response, but enough to start the engine.

After I finished mowing, I cut it off. Tried to crank it again, nothing. This morning it started right up. WTF is going on? I think it's possessed. I'm considering euthanasia.

[Doug28450]

Should have purchased a Chevrolet tractor.

[lspencer534]

Should have purchased a Chevrolet tractor.

I'm just glad I didn't buy a Chrysler tractor....

[Doug28450]

I'm just glad I didn't buy a Chrysler tractor....

Yeah, they start, but they have bad transmissions.

Oh...

By the way...

I've got nothing to help.

[Bill]

Tractile disfunction is common among males of a certain age.

[Bill]

Electrical short?

[lspencer534]

Electrical short?

That's what I was thinking, but the strong start this morning kinda killed that idea. I also thought it might have been a bad neutral start switch, but logic says that they operate or the don't; that is, no weak starts, it either starts or it doesn't. I'm open to ideas.

[OddBall]

Short of being a short, or a kill switch somewhere...I got nothing.
Perhaps Red knows.

[OddBall]

Have your measured voltage's from point to point, looking for voltage drops?

[Grey Ghost]

Short of being a short, or a kill switch somewhere...I got nothing.
Perhaps Red knows.

:yesnod: I was thinking of that pressure switch on the seat (if it has one). Possible ign. switch. If it has spade type connectors on the ign. switch and ANYWHERE else...I would hit the terminals with a bit of sandpaper. Things can get corroded pretty quickly...even if stored inside. And, if the spade type. Just a touch more crimp by pliars on the connector to make sure they are TIGHT.

[lspencer534]

Have your measured voltage's from point to point, looking for voltage drops?

I have not measured, but I will. Thanks!

[lspencer534]

:yesnod: I was thinking of that pressure switch on the seat (if it has one). Possible ign. switch. If it has spade type connectors on the ign. switch and ANYWHERE else...I would hit the terminals with a bit of sandpaper. Things can get corroded pretty quickly...even if stored inside. And, if the spade type. Just a touch more crimp by pliars on the connector to make sure they are TIGHT.

No pressure switch on the seat, just a neutral start switch. I have a feeling I'm going to have to find the problem myself since the dealer seems ineffective. The ignition switch is going to be very hard to get to, but I think you're right: It needs checking.

[Sea Six]

Larry, do you want to know what I think is wrong with it (and how to fix it)?





:beer:

[lspencer534]

Larry, do you want to know what I think is wrong with it (and how to fix it)?





:beer:

No!

[Marc]

:rofl:

[lspencer534]

:rofl:

You know him too, huh?

[Ol Timer]

Tractile disfunction is common among males of a certain age.

Yup, my crank is broke, too.

[JRD77VET]

No pressure switch on the seat, just a neutral start switch. I have a feeling I'm going to have to find the problem myself since the dealer seems ineffective. The ignition switch is going to be very hard to get to, but I think you're right: It needs checking.

Since you're going to be checking each and every connection, I suggest getting some electrical grease to coat those connections after you clean them.

A gentle squeeze of the push clamps with a pliers to tighten up the connectors as Grey Ghost suggested is a good idea too.

[lspencer534]

Since you're going to be checking each and every connection, I suggest getting some electrical grease to coat those connections after you clean them.

A gentle squeeze of the push clamps with a pliers to tighten up the connectors as Grey Ghost suggested is a good idea too.

Good idea! :seasix:

[Sea Six]

No!

:sadangel:

[xXBUDXx]

Neutral safety switch. Been there and saddle broke that horse. :seasix:

[Kerrmudgeon]

check the connections at the solinoid, on a Ford it's usally on the firewall someplace. It's probably that or the switch itself, pretty common problem on a Ford . :yesnod:

[CP]

It's a Ford 3-cyl. diesel with about 50 hp. I bought it new several years ago; it has <700 hours on it. It's had an easy life since it's just used as a big lawn mower. Late last Summer it wouldn't crank; battery checked out okay, as did solenoid and starter.

Dealer said he found a corroded ground cable where it grounds to the engine. Over the Winter I cranked the engine several times to keep the battery charged and the engine excercised. Two weeks ago, same problem: Wouldn't crank, no solenoid clicks, nothing. The battery checked out bad at 8.4 volts after charging.

Called the dealer, they replaced the battery, and it cranked right up. The reason I took it to the dealer is so they could check out anything else that might be causing the problem; they said they found nothing else. Yesterday I wanted to mow, and it wouldn't crank--no clicking, lights burned brightly. I tried 5-6 times with no success. I finally held the key in the 'start' position. After about 10 sec. I got a bump from the starter, then nothing. I tried again with the same result. On the third try I got a weak starter response, but enough to start the engine.

After I finished mowing, I cut it off. Tried to crank it again, nothing. This morning it started right up. WTF is going on? I think it's possessed. I'm considering euthanasia.

What do children in Asian countries have to do with your mower??:rofl:

[RED-85-Z51]

If its a typical ford with an external solenoid, and NOT a solenoid shifter mounted to the starter itself, id try a new solenoid....

Basically all a solenoid is, is a case, with 2 contacts up top hooked to 2 2 large posts...the bottom of the solenoid is an electromagnet with a piston in the center, at the top of the piston is a plate. When you turn the key to START, power is sent through the windings of the magnet (the small spade terminal) and it pushes the piston and contact plate up, shorting the 2 large posts together, thus sending battery voltage to the starter.

If you have 12v at the small spade when you turn the key, but no CLICK...its a bad solenoid. If there is no 12v...then you have a wiring or switch issue.