12v switched

[Munch]

Is there anywhere I can get 12v switched near the battery? Yes, I know there are all those fuses but I need a point where I could draw like 60 amps safely. I don't really need 60 amps, maybe 30 but you get the idea.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/Dr_Munch/FB.jpg

I don't suppose the BATT lead is switched.

[Y2Kvert4me]

30...60a!! You need a relay. :yesnod:

No switched ign source on the car will support anywhere near that much current. 60a will call for at least 6 ga wire.


Explain what you're doing for a more detailed answer.


:cheers:

[Munch]

I want to put a fuse panel in the battery compartment to feed all my nitrous stuff. Most importantly I have to feed 2 relays which will draw 20 amps each. I would just run my fuse block off the batt but I wanted to connect my wideband and gauge there as well and this needs to be switched. However, since I posted this thread I found a thread by cajundude that said he hooked his LC-1 to the 12v switched lead under the glove box that GM left hanging there for whatever so I may just do that. My only concern is that I need to power 2 gauges, the LC-1, the O2 heater and then my switches (minimal draw at most). I just don't want to have too much on that one lead. I was also planning to ground everything to ground strap under the battery.

[Sneaks]

Run all your noid power from the BATT post, and the rest from under the glove box. The gauges, switches, and wideband won't draw enough to even make the 12V wire under the glove box blink. Grounding your noids, and other components, to the ground strap is good. I run all the grounds for the gauges, switch panel, and Microedge to one ground wire, then run that to the ground strap.
I power two gauges, switch panel, and the Microedge off that one wire under the glove box. No worries. :thumbs:

[Y2Kvert4me]

Relays don't draw 20a. They draw milliamps on the control side to switch a high current circuit. The high-current side of the relay is almost always connected directly to battery, or close.

If you have relays, then yes, that batt terminal on the fuse panel would fit your application for the high-current side. And yes, the switched wire near the BCM will also control your relays just fine.


:cheers:

[nineTseven]

put a fuseable link inline with your large gauge wire near the battery terminal just to be safe.