View Full Version : FUUUU!!! My Oil Sending unit is leaking worse than I do in the shower.
DJ_Critterus
05-24-2012, 2:59pm
Dammit :banghead: There's oil all over the top of the back side of my brand new motor in the hotrod. Dammit Dammit Dammit. And that thing is a pain in the ass to get to with the way it's mounted and the distributor being in the way.
Doug28450
05-24-2012, 3:00pm
Dammit :banghead: There's oil all over the top of the back side of my brand new motor in the hotrod. Dammit Dammit Dammit. And that thing is a pain in the ass to get to with the way it's mounted and the distributor being in the way.
Will you please rewrite the in mrvetteese so that we can understand it?
xXBUDXx
05-24-2012, 3:10pm
Dammit :banghead: There's oil all over the top of the back side of my brand new motor in the hotrod. Dammit Dammit Dammit. And that thing is a pain in the ass to get to with the way it's mounted and the distributor being in the way.
Will you please rewrite the in mrvetteese so that we can understand it?
Galldanabbit. Me dun found earl. Mostly is on teh motor. Must been designed by commies. Sum bench sum bench sum bench. I DUN HATE wurkin on dem elotro spar-a-ma-bobber is in the Way!!
kingpin
05-24-2012, 3:14pm
BWAHAHAHAHAHA! Not directed at you Derj.
Oil leaks are bad. Mmmmmkay
He has an oil leak.
That's bad, he's sad.
If it's any comfort, the oil pressure sending unit in my Porsche is shot and I have to replace it--I have to lower the engine from underneath the car to get at it...
DJ_Critterus
05-24-2012, 3:31pm
Will you please rewrite the in mrvetteese so that we can understand it?
No. i don't have time to break out my mrvette translator.
On a side note, I think it's fixed. Now it's off to the store to get some more Rotella-T 30W to finish the break in.
DJ_Critterus
05-24-2012, 3:33pm
If it's any comfort, the oil pressure sending unit in my Porsche is shot and I have to replace it--I have to lower the engine from underneath the car to get at it...
Sucks to be you then, but if you can afford a Porsche, you can afford the maintenance :D Heh Heh.
I actually want to change out my oil pressure guage with one that is connected via a small tube to where the current OPsensor is. Much more accurate I would think.
mrvette
05-24-2012, 3:40pm
YOUR skinny ass young body got NO chance to keep up in a pissing contest, shower or NOT....
punk......:lol::shots::shots::hurray:
mrvette
05-24-2012, 3:44pm
If it's any comfort, the oil pressure sending unit in my Porsche is shot and I have to replace it--I have to lower the engine from underneath the car to get at it...
OH bullshit, YGTBFKM.....no WAY man,
talk of MY ballistic crap....shit man.....I B slinging wrenches clean to Stuttgart...right through their fenders.....
DJ_Critterus
05-24-2012, 4:59pm
Mother FUUUUU. still blowing oil from the top of the backside of the motor. Valve covers are dry around the seals. I wonder if i need to retighten my intake manifold or if the eva system i have going to the exhaust is drawing too much vacuum.
DJ_Critterus
05-24-2012, 5:01pm
YOUR skinny ass young body got NO chance to keep up in a pissing contest, shower or NOT....
punk......:lol::shots::shots::hurray:
Rember old fart. I am very devious and capable of unimaginable treachery even at my age. Plus i carry The Handle.
Mother FUUUUU. still blowing oil from the top of the backside of the motor. Valve covers are dry around the seals. I wonder if i need to retighten my intake manifold or if the eva system i have going to the exhaust is drawing too much vacuum.
Crankcase pressure? Do you have a vent on your valve covers or PCV to the carb.
kingpin
05-24-2012, 5:33pm
Mother FUUUUU. still blowing oil from the top of the backside of the motor. Valve covers are dry around the seals. I wonder if i need to retighten my intake manifold or if the eva system i have going to the exhaust is drawing too much vacuum.
Check the glove compartment.
Dammit :banghead: There's oil all over the top of the back side of my brand new motor in the hotrod. Dammit Dammit Dammit. And that thing is a pain in the ass to get to with the way it's mounted and the distributor being in the way.
That's what I call Part #1. It was the starting point for building the car and all other parts were assembled around it. To get to Part #1, you have to disassemble the car. :seasix:
mrvette
05-24-2012, 7:36pm
John, call me, I can maybe walk you through it, while you are over the car...
I need you to have a fresh can of carb cleaner handy and be able to cover your painted surfaces....this CAN be found....
my first suspect is a cracked or leaking oil pressure line to your dash gauge....
just a SWAG from experiences....
no got my # PM me, you got it....
easy do man....well, somewhat easy, not MY backbone....
:dance::lol::cert:
Fastguy
05-24-2012, 10:00pm
Did you use a bead of silicone on the front and rear of the manifold or the rubber gaskets? If you used the rubber gaskets, they have a 99% fail rate.
DJ_Critterus
05-24-2012, 11:00pm
Crankcase pressure? Do you have a vent on your valve covers or PCV to the carb.
I have the canisters that look like a pcv valve that go to the carb on each valve cover but they go to evac tubes welded into the collectors. They aren't leaking. i found the leak. See below.
John, call me, I can maybe walk you through it, while you are over the car...
I need you to have a fresh can of carb cleaner handy and be able to cover your painted surfaces....this CAN be found....
my first suspect is a cracked or leaking oil pressure line to your dash gauge....
just a SWAG from experiences....
no got my # PM me, you got it....
easy do man....well, somewhat easy, not MY backbone....
:dance::lol::cert:
I did just that with carb cleaner. The way my OP sensor is monted to the block is via a brass tube going to a 45deg. angle that the OP sensor mounts to. The oil is coming out from where the tube meets the block even though I have it wrapped well with pipe thread tape. My guess is the pipe is broken because I had to loosen it once and I started noticing the leak after that. I watched it tonight and saw it shooting oil from there when I rev'd the motor. So I need to fix that. I found a different OP Sensor that will fit there without the tube and will put that in with pipe thread compound tomorrow. Cross your fingers... Gene, I'm using an electric guage, too, but plan to swap that out with one that reads pressure directly from the motor via the hose line. I had one set up that I used on the test bench when we first started and tuned the motor.
Did you use a bead of silicone on the front and rear of the manifold or the rubber gaskets? If you used the rubber gaskets, they have a 99% fail rate.
No rubber gaskets. No leaks from anywhere except from what I described above. OP Sensor (two of them) are reading 75psi since I did put in a hi flow oil pump.
MrPeabody
05-25-2012, 8:01am
Yes, the oil pressure gauges with the oil line running right to them are much better, that way you can spring a leak right at the gauge and spray oil all over the interior.:seasix:
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 8:04am
Yes, the oil pressure gauges with the oil line running right to them are much better, that way you can spring a leak right at the gauge and spray oil all over the interior.:seasix:
And how often do you see that happen? Not once for me.
MrPeabody
05-25-2012, 8:26am
And how often do you see that happen? Not once for me.
It's rare, but I've seen it happen.
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 8:34am
It's rare, but I've seen it happen.
Never had an issue, but then again, I always take my time installing those things and wrap them up well.
MrPeabody
05-25-2012, 8:46am
Never had an issue, but then again, I always take my time installing those things and wrap them up well.
Then how did your current leak happen? I'm just saying shit happens, and although it never happened to me, I'd rather not have hot pressurized oil under my dashboard.:seasix:
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 8:49am
Then how did your current leak happen? I'm just saying shit happens, and although it never happened to me, I'd rather not have hot pressurized oil under my dashboard.:seasix:
Not sure, but i get your point. Probably is best not to re-use old parts from a previous build is my guess.
mrvette
05-25-2012, 9:10am
Not sure, but i get your point. Probably is best not to re-use old parts from a previous build is my guess.
That is one reason why my old stock gauges went to a friend for cheep, I having sold the frame already, the stock oil pressure gauge, leaked inside and would drain oil down on the radio, at a very slo rate, but always dripping, it was the pressure tube itself leaking, the old OEM? plastic line eventually shattered also, replaced with copper, but that broke on the end over the years, new gauges came with new plastic line, so used it...my car is older than YOU are....
Take some pix of that TBucket, a guy who used to live up the street had a yellow T , he had a Caddy repair shop, and wound up selling to a neighbor's kid, then we lost site of it some years ago, wonder if you bought it?? how many yellow T Buckets in OP anyway?? this would have been maybe 8 years ago by now....:cert:
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 9:13am
That is one reason why my old stock gauges went to a friend for cheep, I having sold the frame already, the stock oil pressure gauge, leaked inside and would drain oil down on the radio, at a very slo rate, but always dripping, it was the pressure tube itself leaking, the old OEM? plastic line eventually shattered also, replaced with copper, but that broke on the end over the years, new gauges came with new plastic line, so used it...my car is older than YOU are....
Take some pix of that TBucket, a guy who used to live up the street had a yellow T , he had a Caddy repair shop, and wound up selling to a neighbor's kid, then we lost site of it some years ago, wonder if you bought it?? how many yellow T Buckets in OP anyway?? this would have been maybe 8 years ago by now....:cert:
I've never seen a yellow T-bucket in OP besides mine and that was the first time it had ever left the killeen area. I'll get some pics when I fix this issue at hand and get her cleaned up :thumbs: She looks like hell with oil all over the top of the motor and firewall.
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 9:01pm
Mother fuuuuuu!!!!!! i can't get the oil to stop blowing out of the hole where the OP Sensor screws into. I tried pipe thread tape. I tried pipe thread sealant compound. I tried with a new sensor that didn't need the brass tubes to get the sensor out of the way of the distributor.
WTF, man? This time I tried putting HI-TEMP copper gasket maker around the threads (used a shit ton of it) and put it back in. Hopefully that stops it. WTF is causing this? I can't see or feel any cracks around the area.
JRD77VET
05-25-2012, 9:13pm
Mother fuuuuuu!!!!!! i can't get the oil to stop blowing out of the hole where the OP Sensor screws into. I tried pipe thread tape. I tried pipe thread sealant compound. I tried with a new sensor that didn't need the brass tubes to get the sensor out of the way of the distributor.
WTF, man? This time I tried putting HI-TEMP copper gasket maker around the threads (used a shit ton of it) and put it back in. Hopefully that stops it. WTF is causing this? I can't see or feel any cracks around the area.
Bad threads will do that. Pipe tap? if a "R" drill (.339 ) fit in the hole , it's 1/8-27NPT ( I think it would be this size )
If a 7/16" drill ( .4375) fit in the hole, it's 1/4-18 NPT.
It may need cleaning with a tap. Since it's a tapered pipe thread, an additional full turn should clean up the threads nicely.
Cast iron block? I would suggest putting a small amount of grease on the tap to capture the chips you make. It is also extremely important to keep any sideways leverage to an absolute minimum or you will break the tap. You are screwed big time then.
Jeff ~~machinist~~
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 9:19pm
thanks, jeff. I'm hoping this sealant I used will hold because I am leery as hell about breaking out my taps and cleaning that up. It is cast Iron.
Jeff '79
05-25-2012, 9:20pm
I hope it works out ok for you....It's always those little things tha fk you over.....:waiting:
JRD77VET
05-25-2012, 9:29pm
thanks, jeff. I'm hoping this sealant I used will hold because I am leery as hell about breaking out my taps and cleaning that up. It is cast Iron.
If it still leaks, find a 12 point socket the square drive of the tap will fit in and turn it in until it stops ( easy force ) . You just want to clean threads.
As long as you're careful, you should be fine.
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 9:39pm
If it still leaks, find a 12 point socket the square drive of the tap will fit in and turn it in until it stops ( easy force ) . You just want to clean threads.
As long as you're careful, you should be fine.
I think i will have to go this route Sunday when I get back from the pub-crawl in San Antonio with the Hash House Harriers. I put the die on that brass tube and it went on smooth with no issues so I know the threads weren't cross threaded or butchered, too. A good cleaning sounds like the best option. :cheers:
JRD77VET
05-25-2012, 9:42pm
Just make sure the tap is marked "NPT" ( or NPTF <-- "F" denotes dryseal ) and is NOT marked NPS ( that is straight pipe thread )
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 9:48pm
Just make sure the tap is marked "NPT" ( or NPTF <-- "F" denotes dryseal ) and is NOT marked NPS ( that is straight pipe thread )
I have a set with Nc and NF llabels. which one should I use? I'm guessing the NF?
Kerrmudgeon
05-25-2012, 9:49pm
That's a ton of oil pressure, you are bound to get leaks somewhere eventually. We built a 500hp big block last year and they all said to run the regular pump with the blue spring, and it doesn't leak a drop. Just sayin......:seasix:
Fastguy
05-25-2012, 9:51pm
I hate to even mention it, but is it possible the block is cracked? Some people wrap the sender with an assload of teflon tape and that can crack the block.
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 9:53pm
I hate to even mention it, but is it possible the block is cracked? Some people wrap the sender with an assload of teflon tape and that can crack the block.
I can't feel or see any cracks, though a very small one could be an issue. At this point, I can't be sure when it started leaking, but it didn't leak when I had the other OP guage hooked up with the tube going to the guage.
JRD77VET
05-25-2012, 9:58pm
I have a set with Nc and NF llabels. which one should I use? I'm guessing the NF?
NO!!!!!
NC is National Coarse
NF is National Fine
Both are straight thread.
What you want is NPT National Pipe Thread most likely in 1/8-27 NPT
See if you have that in your set.
Like this one
New 1/8" - 27 HSS NPT Taper Pipe Tap 1/8 - 27 TPI | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-8-27-HSS-NPT-Taper-Pipe-Tap-1-8-27-TPI-/180882751720?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1d73c0e8)
Proper thread depth is approximately 2/3 of the way down the tap.
Fastguy
05-25-2012, 10:02pm
I can't feel or see any cracks, though a very small one could be an issue. At this point, I can't be sure when it started leaking, but it didn't leak when I had the other OP guage hooked up with the tube going to the guage.
I am almost tempted to say, just plug it and run the OP off the side of the oil filter housing to make sure its not the block.
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 10:03pm
NO!!!!!
NC is National Coarse
NF is National Fine
Both are straight thread.
What you want is NPT National Pipe Thread most likely in 1/8-27 NPT
See if you have that in your set.
Like this one
New 1/8" - 27 HSS NPT Taper Pipe Tap 1/8 - 27 TPI | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-8-27-HSS-NPT-Taper-Pipe-Tap-1-8-27-TPI-/180882751720?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1d73c0e8)
Proper thread depth is approximately 2/3 of the way down the tap.
Nope, don't have NPT. On the plus side, it looks like I get to make another trip to the Man Store and buy some new toys to keep in the garage :cheers:
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 10:04pm
I am almost tempted to say, just plug it and run the OP off the side of the oil filter housing to make sure its not the block.
Thing is a plug will probably yield the same results.
JRD77VET
05-25-2012, 10:10pm
Nope, don't have NPT. On the plus side, it looks like I get to make another trip to the Man Store and buy some new toys to keep in the garage :cheers:
Buy good quality so it doesn't break. :seasix:
Just as a reminder on tapered pipe threads. As the name implies, they are tapered. That means you do NOT bury the full length of the tap in the piece.
2/3 of the thread length will get you close to correct thread depth. If the tap has 3/4" of threads on it, you would only need to go 1/2" to get proper diameter /thread depth.
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 10:12pm
My brain is going to fry if I learn anything more today :funny: Thanks. :cheers:
JRD77VET
05-25-2012, 10:14pm
My brain is going to fry if I learn anything more today :funny: Thanks. :cheers:
Good thing the day ends shortly :rofl:
I work with this stuff every day, it's easy for me. Just trying to make it go as easy as possible for you :seasix:
DJ_Critterus
05-25-2012, 10:17pm
Good thing the day ends shortly :rofl:
I work with this stuff every day, it's easy for me. Just trying to make it go as easy as possible for you :seasix:
Well, i'm not touching it until late sunday when the hangover i plan to have is gone. Partying with the Hashers is an event not to take lightly. :funny:
DJ_Critterus
05-26-2012, 9:20am
:banghead: I know that I, my father, or the machinist didn't tap that hole (not the knooger way). It went all the way down with another pipe threaded the same. So, soembody who owned the block before me tapped it wrong :banghead:
So what time is it? Time to go to the machine shop or JB weld that original brass tube in and go with the first OP Sensor set up?
kingpin
05-26-2012, 9:24am
Sorry aboot your Anal Leakage. :sadangel:
DJ_Critterus
05-26-2012, 9:25am
Sorry aboot your Anal Leakage. :sadangel:
Only gasses coming out the exhaust. This is more like blowing out an artery.
JRD77VET
05-26-2012, 7:01pm
:banghead: I know that I, my father, or the machinist didn't tap that hole (not the knooger way). It went all the way down with another pipe threaded the same. So, soembody who owned the block before me tapped it wrong :banghead:
So what time is it? Time to go to the machine shop or JB weld that original brass tube in and go with the first OP Sensor set up?
Did you get a 1/8-27 NPT tap? Are you saying the entire tap goes down into the hole?
If so, you have a few options.
1) most expensive since not only do you have to remove the engine, you have to completely disassemble it-- have machine shop counterbore a flat to reduce the major diameter of the hole.
If it were mine, I would do option two or three
2) plug the hole with a 1/8-27 plug sealed with JB weld and find another spot to get your oil pressure.
3) Purchase one of these http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/50925kp9l.png?ver=23719149 This one is from McMaster.com item #50925K128 at a cost of $6.53
It's 1/8-27 NPT on both ends.
After you have cleaned the oversized hole with acetone or similar. Slather the male end with JB Weld ( except the center hole of course ) and tighten it down.
If all works well, end of problem :seasix:
DJ_Critterus
05-28-2012, 2:37pm
Well, I got it fixed it seems. I used some JB weld on the brass pipe the OP Sensor screws into and it's bone dry. I also had to pull the top end of the motor off, get new intake seals (coated in the copper gasket spray, too), and put a good, thick bead of black RTV on the front and back of the motor where the intake manifold rests. So far so good. When I pull the manifold off, there was no RTV right in front of the OP Sensor either. Anyways, thanks for the help everyone. I think I have both leaks fixed and can safely clean the car without having to repeat every time I rev the motor.
Jeff '79
05-28-2012, 6:23pm
:clap:
Now...........
Do a burnout, and really mash it this time....
Be sure to have someone film it this time......:seasix:
i'm still at a loss as to why you need that high of oil pressure???
DJ_Critterus
05-29-2012, 7:43am
:clap:
Now...........
Do a burnout, and really mash it this time....
Be sure to have someone film it this time......:seasix:
Well. back to square one. I nailed the gas pretty good and :banghead: I got a small leak in the same spot this time. I know the block and manifold aren't cracked in that area and a put down a shit ton of RTV. Is it possible that due to my high flow oil pump and my guage reading 75psi that there's entirely too much pressure blowing out the RTV?
i'm still at a loss as to why you need that high of oil pressure???
We wanted to build it with the high flow pump to make sure this engine stays lubed. Now I'm wondering if there's too much pressure.
mrvette
05-29-2012, 8:40am
So your Tbucket originated in Texas then?? not here....
this one was built by Ron Fullerton, Caddy mechanic up the road, used to be Tuttweiller now bought by Nimnicht some years ago....
Ron got his nose in the candy due to his wild wife, and so they lost the house, which has had a tough life with all the other owners....changed hands maybe 4x since him.....current folks are just as krazy....
DJ_Critterus
05-29-2012, 9:10am
Yep. It started life out here in TX and is trying to kill itself by slowly bleeding out right now.
We wanted to build it with the high flow pump to make sure this engine stays lubed. Now I'm wondering if there's too much pressure.
In all honesty, unless you're running a big inch motor for racing purposes, a stock oil pump will do everything you need it to.
JRD77VET
05-29-2012, 7:09pm
Well. back to square one. I nailed the gas pretty good and :banghead: I got a small leak in the same spot this time. I know the block and manifold aren't cracked in that area and a put down a shit ton of RTV. Is it possible that due to my high flow oil pump and my guage reading 75psi that there's entirely too much pressure blowing out the RTV?
We wanted to build it with the high flow pump to make sure this engine stays lubed. Now I'm wondering if there's too much pressure.
In all honesty, unless you're running a big inch motor for racing purposes, a stock oil pump will do everything you need it to.
I ran a high volume, high pressure oil pump in my 350. Over 60 lbs at idle.
BUT, it was running 12.5:1 actual compression, the balancing was good for 10K and the solid lifter cam didn't come onto the powerband until 4000 rpm. I had all kinds of oil drips but had to put up with it to save the engine.
Replace the oil pump with a good quality stock one.
DJ_Critterus
05-29-2012, 7:15pm
I'm wondering if putting a stock one on there will do any damage to the motor in the long one? Power band kicks in about 3K rpm and it has a pretty hefty cam in it. Motor was balanced from front to back (you guys know how that all works without the explanation). If it's no issue, I guess I'll have to go with less pressure.
vBulletin® v3.8.4, Copyright ©2000-2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.