View Full Version : Serious engine question...
Montehall
05-24-2012, 1:19pm
I was pulling the lifters out of the 84 and I had to rotate the engine to get them all.
I cannot rotate out all the way around. I put a breaker bar on the crank pully bolt, and I can move it about an eigth-turn either way, and every thing goes like it should, but then the engine acts like there is a suction and nothing wil move.
If I push on the bar, I can see the pistons trying to move, but ultimately the pistons move.
It's really easy to move the little bit though.
it has been sitting dry for about a month.
69camfrk
05-24-2012, 1:28pm
Well, the good thing is, your motor is not locked up. However, something is obviously binding. I am assuming of course that all pushrods have been removed from both sides. If they are still one one side or there is one that is too tight somewhere (rocker arm too tight) that would cause a stuck condition since the pushrod has no where to go. The lifters should be free in their bores.:seasix:
Montehall
05-24-2012, 1:49pm
it's a bare block now... no heads at all.
You know... I'm wondering the the transmission is in neutral...
Fastguy
05-24-2012, 1:58pm
If it's not in neutral, well, there's your problem.
You should also make sure that you didn't bend any rods since you really milkshaked that motor. Whe you turn it over, make sure all the pistons come up to the same height from the block surface.
If that is not a roller cam motor, you need to make sure you either replace the lifters or put them back exactly where they came from.
lallend
05-24-2012, 2:15pm
You know... I'm wondering the the transmission is in neutral...That was my first thought.
Oh, and use a magnet to pull the lifters, no need to rotate the crank...
Montehall
05-24-2012, 2:17pm
That was my first thought.
Oh, and use a magnet to pull the lifters, no need to rotate the crank...
I accidentally used a wet/dry vac.
the cam is a flat tappet.
Fastguy
05-24-2012, 2:20pm
Make sure the bottom end is good. The last SBC I had that did what yours did broke multiple rods.
69camfrk
05-24-2012, 2:35pm
I had in my mind that engine was on a stand. The transmission in drive would definitely cause said problem as others stated. Depending on how much torque you put on it, yeah, check your pushrods.:cert:
Montehall
05-24-2012, 2:37pm
Drive?
what kind of vette do you think I have?
:D
69camfrk
05-24-2012, 2:39pm
Drive?
what kind of vette do you think I have?
:D
Ok, dammit, in gear!!!!!:D
DJ_Critterus
05-24-2012, 2:52pm
If it's not in neutral, well, there's your problem.
You should also make sure that you didn't bend any rods since you really milkshaked that motor. Whe you turn it over, make sure all the pistons come up to the same height from the block surface.
If that is not a roller cam motor, you need to make sure you either replace the lifters or put them back exactly where they came from.
Replace the lifters anyway if that's the case. If that motor was milkshaked as bad as he told us, then I, personally, would feel more comfortable with new internals if it was my ride.
MrPeabody
05-24-2012, 2:56pm
Drive?
what kind of vette do you think I have?
:D
A broken one.:D
Montehall
05-24-2012, 4:38pm
the transmission was in gear, so that's a relief.
as for the lifters:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/2012-05-24_16-22-39_968.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/2012-05-24_16-23-05_291.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/C4/2012-03-24_19-05-41_862.jpg
I think they look excellent
I did however, notice this on the #5 Piston
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/2012-05-24_16-24-25_33.jpg
I did however, notice this on the #5 Piston
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/2012-05-24_16-24-25_33.jpg
No big deal there. Could have inhaled a screw from the carb at one point in its life.
Did it turn after taking it out of gear?
Lifters need to go back in the same hole it came from.
Be sure you put lots of break in lube on the end of the lifters before you fire that bad boy up.
I always soak mine in new engine oil overnight but since you are using used ones, just lube it up.
CBonsall
05-24-2012, 5:33pm
have you even pulled the oil pan to take a look at the bottom end of the motor?
i`m no master mechanic but after seeing that stuff on your piston , i would look.
MrPeabody
05-24-2012, 5:36pm
Tow it to the Barn Raising. I hear there's lots of people there that just love to spend Memorial Day weekend working on a C4. They'll help pay for it, too.:D
Montehall
05-24-2012, 5:42pm
The stuff on the piston is raised... almost like dripped solder.
Montehall
05-24-2012, 7:11pm
Did it turn after taking it out of gear?
Yeah... I can turn the pulley by hand.
The stuff on the piston is raised... almost like dripped solder.
Still not an issue.
The only thing that might happen is if they get red hot, they may cause some pre-ignition.
If you have a scotch pad or sandpaper you can take it down with that. Wont hurt, do this by hand, no power tools.
Run a vacuum hose next to it when you sand it down, keeps the crud from getting into the rings and cyl wall.
JRD77VET
05-24-2012, 8:18pm
the transmission was in gear, so that's a relief.
as for the lifters:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/2012-05-24_16-22-39_968.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/2012-05-24_16-23-05_291.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/C4/2012-03-24_19-05-41_862.jpg
I think they look excellent
I did however, notice this on the #5 Piston
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Wilson1911/2012-05-24_16-24-25_33.jpg
I agree with Nate, remove the high spots by hand.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/JRD77VET/house/cub%20cadet/Cub%20Cadet%20125%20rebuild/DCP_4975.jpg
I've had good luck with Lucas assembly lube :seasix:
Rotorhead
05-24-2012, 8:53pm
I agree with Nate, remove the high spots by hand.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/JRD77VET/house/cub%20cadet/Cub%20Cadet%20125%20rebuild/DCP_4975.jpg
I've had good luck with Lucas assembly lube :seasix:
I've never had any bad luck with any Lucas products. :seasix::cert:
Montehall
05-24-2012, 9:30pm
Chris (stangkiller) gave me some assembly lube, not sure what brand.
.
.
.
oh, wait... KY?
BuckyThreadkiller
05-24-2012, 9:38pm
Chris (stangkiller) gave me some assembly lube, not sure what brand.
.
.
.
oh, wait... KY?
You might make sure you and he are talking about the same kind of pistons.
You might make sure you and he are talking about the same kind of pistons.
Stroken is stroken... :D
You might make sure you and he are talking about the same kind of pistons.
Pistons go up and down in the hole, right?:hurray:
Montehall
05-25-2012, 7:25am
now I get to put it all back together, hopefully I can remember where everything went.
unless you took close note of what lifter came out of what lifter hole, i'd replace them as well as the cam. they wear together and if the pieces aren't put back the same way that they were, you're gonna be asking for another tear down due to a wiped lobe or lifter....
Montehall
05-29-2012, 10:20am
unless you took close note of what lifter came out of what lifter hole, i'd replace them as well as the cam. they wear together and if the pieces aren't put back the same way that they were, you're gonna be asking for another tear down due to a wiped lobe or lifter....
Lifters were removed one at a time.
Kevin_73
05-29-2012, 11:35am
have you even pulled the oil pan to take a look at the bottom end of the motor?
i`m no master mechanic but after seeing that stuff on your piston , i would look.
:iagree:
If it were my engine I would drop the oil pan so I could at least get a visual check on the rods to be sure they aren't bent. It would also be a good idea to pull the bearing caps to check the condition of the bearings. Platigauge isn't the most accurate stuff in the world, but it is a cheap and easy way to find clearance problems on bearings. You should check the crank end-play with a feeler gauge too. Oil pumps are cheap insurance and easy to change at this point. :seasix:
It would also be a good idea to pull the timing cover off and check the timing gears/chain for wear too, they aren't all that expensive to replace either.
As someone else mentioned, since you had so much coolant in your oil it would also be a good idea to replace the cam and lifters. It will probably cost you about $200 to do it now, but it will be much more expensive than that if you decide to wait and you have to tear it down again to replace them.
Get a Felpro one piece oil pan gasket. They seal better than the 4 piece gaskets, are much easier to install, and they are re-useable as long as they are installed correctly. :seasix:
Rubber valve cover gaskets are the way to go too. :yesnod:
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