Paging DAB....making a desk top. HELP!

[Brett K]

I am hoping for some advice from our resident woodworker, or anyone else who can help. I recently purchased an old sewing machine with the cast iron base to use for a desk project. I was thinking of trying to salvage some left over wood from some flooring and deck projects to make the top similar to your cutting boards. I have some Brazillian Teak, Brazillian Walnut, and Maple. The teak and maply are 3/4 floor boards with an aluminum oxide finish. The walnut is 5/4in decking.

I want to make about a 24" x 42" top about 1.5 to 1.75" thick with boards with the sides of the boards facing up in stripes. I was going to pick up a Dewalt Planer and hoefully remove just enough to get rid of the aluminum oxide finish. leaving me with some pretty thin 5/8 strips of the flooring mixed up with some thicker walnut strips.

Will I have any problems running them side up instead of using the edges?Another problem I have is there are grooves on the bottom of the flooring so I guess I will have to run the glue heavy enough to eliminate air pockets. Any potential problems you can think of or advicewould be appreciated.

[DAB]

A desk top made of pre finished flooring turned on edge? :skep:

On my iPhone now, so short reply.

I'd do something else. More later.

[DAB]

Made this standing desk of quarter sawn white oak. Leather insert.

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad214/brinkmancorvette/Woodworking/IMG_0702.jpg

[Brett K]

A desk top made of pre finished flooring turned on edge? :skep:

On my iPhone now, so short reply.

I'd do something else. More later.

Actually, laid on its side. My problem is I can't find thicker boards locally other then the crap available at Lowes or HD. The only think I have other than that is the Ipe deck boards I have. I figured I can mix them up in stripes going across. I really don't need cut edges facing up since it is only a desk top.

[simpleman68]

Actually, laid on its side. My problem is I can't find thicker boards locally other then the crap available at Lowes or HD. The only think I have other than that is the Ipe deck boards I have. I figured I can mix them up in stripes going across. I really don't need cut edges facing up since it is only a desk top.

Definitely use the Ipe. Stuff is beautiful, lightweight and cuts like butter. :D
Scott

[DAB]

Made this out of pre finished plywood and oak trim.

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad214/brinkmancorvette/Woodworking/033_ASR-desk-1.jpg

[Brett K]

Where do you get your wood? Any good online vendors?

[DAB]

Local lumber yards.

You can buy hardwood online, I've used Rocklers, as well as Exotic Lumber in Gaithersburg MD. Not cheap, but you likely can get whatever you like.

[DAB]

I am hoping for some advice from our resident woodworker, or anyone else who can help. I recently purchased an old sewing machine with the cast iron base to use for a desk project. I was thinking of trying to salvage some left over wood from some flooring and deck projects to make the top similar to your cutting boards. I have some Brazillian Teak, Brazillian Walnut, and Maple. The teak and maply are 3/4 floor boards with an aluminum oxide finish. The walnut is 5/4in decking.

I want to make about a 24" x 42" top about 1.5 to 1.75" thick with boards with the sides of the boards facing up in stripes. I was going to pick up a Dewalt Planer and hoefully remove just enough to get rid of the aluminum oxide finish. leaving me with some pretty thin 5/8 strips of the flooring mixed up with some thicker walnut strips.

Will I have any problems running them side up instead of using the edges?Another problem I have is there are grooves on the bottom of the flooring so I guess I will have to run the glue heavy enough to eliminate air pockets. Any potential problems you can think of or advicewould be appreciated.

ok, big keyboard now, so longer answer:

a dewalt planer (i have one), runs about $500. that's quite a bit to salvage leftover wood.

if i were you, with the same goal, and same lack of planer, i'd go to Rockler.com, and order some nice hardwood (whatever is your fancy), and it will arrive planed, jointed, and cut to exact length. all you have to do is join the pieces together. you'll spend way less than the cost of a planer.

also, trying to plane off a factory finish will do quite the number on your planer blades.

feel free to PM with more Qs if you don't want to kick them around in a thread. :DAB:

[Truck Guy]

To add to what DAB has said (I agree with everything he said), The finish will kill the planer blades.
The grooves you mention on the bottom of the flooring are stress and air circulation reliefs. Some also say they help with laying a wood floor flat on the substrate.

You would really need to plane off these grooves, wood glue is really not a filler and will shrink out of large spaces when it dries.

I use Titebond II & III mostly with my wood working with great success.
Any good wood glue will work on an indoor type project that you are planning.

One of the ways to make a glue-up laminated wood plank is to cut all your wood to the same length ( a little longer than your completed top) and width.
Glue three or four pieces together with clamps (lots of clamps!)
Four 3/4" boards will give you a 3" slab. Make seven (7) of these.
Then glue two or three together, etc. until you have a 21" wide slab.

It's tough to glue that many boards together all at the same time and keep them from sliding around when the glue is wet.
Really tough to keep everything aligned unless you use cauls, but that is another whole lesson :lol: Cauls (http://www.newwoodworker.com/cauls.html)

I've done hard maple butcher block tops using this method.
When I have 12" wide slabs, I'll run them through my planer so they are all the exact same thickness, then glue the two slabs together to form a 24" slab.

Also, if you have a Menard's near you, they sell S4S (smooth 4 sides) Red Oak that is cut, planned and sanded already. Not cheap, but the work is done for you.
Just cut to length and glue together.

Check the yellow pages to see if there is a hard wood supplier in your area.

We have a great one near us called Owl Hardwood. They sell just about everything.
Rough lumber, S4S, veneer plywood and every molding and trim piece you could possible want.

OWL Hardwood (http://www.owlhardwood.com/)

Russ

Sorry, no "cliffs" :D

[Truck Guy]

Definitely use the Ipe. Stuff is beautiful, lightweight and cuts like butter. :D
ScottBut almost impossible to glue.
It's used mostly for outdoor projects like decking.

Google IPE and gluing, you'll see what I mean.

[simpleman68]

But almost impossible to glue.
It's used mostly for outdoor projects like decking.

Google IPE and gluing, you'll see what I mean.

I was being facetious. I've worked with and even attempted to saw/drill that sheit a few times 10 years or so ago.
Outcome: I quickly realized I'd rather chew broken glass shards and gargle with rubbing alcohol. :lol:
Scott

[Truck Guy]

I was being facetious. I've worked with and even attempted to saw/drill that sheit a few times 10 years or so ago.
Outcome: I quickly realized I'd rather chew broken glass shards and gargle with rubbing alcohol. :lol:
Scott

:lol: Sorry, I missed the joke! I hate that crap too :D

Looks good, when someone else works with it...

[simpleman68]

:lol: Sorry, I missed the joke! I hate that crap too :D

Looks good, when someone else works with it...

Yeah, it was really a shame too. My buddy got a bunch for free (enough to fill 2 HD pickups to the rails)
We had all kinds of plans for the stuff. Wound up selling some and giving the rest away for deck/dock builders. :sadangel:
Scott