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Munch
12-11-2011, 10:43am
I need 9 feet of flat wall to mount something but my wall is about a 1/4" out in a couple places. I can't use trim or caulk to make up the difference so I need to float the wall. (I think it's called floating) Anyway, I thought I would use joint compound but wondering about a few things.

Is joint compound the best to use for this type of thing and does it come in anything smaller than those 5gal buckets?

The wall is already painted, is it necessary to score the wall to keep the repair in place for the life of the wall?

Lastly, any guru-esque tips for doing this kind of job other than having a long ass sanding block?

Thanks :cheers:

DJ_Critterus
12-11-2011, 10:45am
This is one of the times when LATB serves a purpose....

Jeff '79
12-11-2011, 10:48am
I don't get it.......Pics......:confused5:

Jeff '79
12-11-2011, 10:49am
This is one of the times when LATB serves a purpose....

Lars serves many purposes, one of which is mocking out that stoopid hat you wear......:seasix:

kingpin
12-11-2011, 10:55am
You can use joint compound but you have to do it in small stages because it can crack or sag. Not to mention take ages to dry if applied to heavy.

Sheetrock 20 or 90 that dries quicker and harder is your best choice IMHO!

kingpin
12-11-2011, 10:56am
Lars serves many purposes, one of which is mocking out that stoopid hat you wear......:seasix:

Fuzzy Upside Down Lampshade

Munch
12-11-2011, 10:57am
Sheetrock 20 or 90 that dries quicker and harder is your best choice IMHO!

What is that? Is that the brand name?

LATB
12-11-2011, 11:00am
Lars serves many purposes, one of which is mocking out that stoopid hat you wear......:seasix:

:D

:dance:

kingpin
12-11-2011, 11:03am
What is that? Is that the brand name?

It comes in powder form and you mix it yourself.
The number designates dry time.
20- 20 minute - hard to work with.
90- 90 minute - a little easier to work with.

Also known as Durabond 20/45/90

Building Materials - Drywall - Joint Compound at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Drywall-Joint-Compound/h_d1/N-5yc1vZard1/h_d2/Navigation?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&langId=-1)

DAB
12-11-2011, 11:03am
:D

:dance:

About time you stop by. :kimblair:

LATB
12-11-2011, 11:06am
About time you stop by. :kimblair:

:kimblair:

been a busy bee...

got the lid on the house last week...

:dance:

Munch
12-11-2011, 11:06am
I don't get it.......Pics......:confused5:

The only pic I have is a concept picture I made before I started the project.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff68/Dr_Munch/Wall.jpg

The side shelves are totally different now but the part in question is the long shelf under the TV. The main shelf is 9' x 11" x 3.5" and will float off the wall so I need the wall flat for a nice finish.

Grey Ghost
12-11-2011, 11:09am
Where is it 1/4 inch out at ? Sounds like you are trying to do something similar to auto body work on a sheet rock wall ? I've done plenty of body work and used a lot of bondo over the years. If you go that route. The longer the sanding block the better. Also feather the edges of the compound. You can use spray paint to find the high/low places to get it perfectly flat. If you use compound. Make sure to put it on in multiple coats and let it dry completely. You want to make sure the first coats are completely dry before applying more on top of them.

DAB
12-11-2011, 11:10am
Adding new drywall won't fix crooked framing. I'd plan to scribe to the wall for a tight fit.

Munch
12-11-2011, 11:14am
Adding new drywall won't fix crooked framing. I'd plan to scribe to the wall for a tight fit.

Please explain. You mean plane my shelf to fit to the wall? I don't have those kinds of tools nor do I want to risk Fing up the wood as it cost a few $$.

Munch
12-11-2011, 11:17am
Where is it 1/4 inch out at ? Sounds like you are trying to do something similar to auto body work on a sheet rock wall ?

That's exactly what I am doing. Where can I get a 48" longboard??:seasix:

DAB
12-11-2011, 11:19am
Please explain. You mean plane my shelf to fit to the wall? I don't have those kinds of tools nor do I want to risk Fing up the wood as it cost a few $$.

In that case, just mount the shelf and move on.

Munch
12-11-2011, 11:26am
In that case, just mount the shelf and move on.

Just mount it and let it look like crap? Aren't you a craftsman?

DJ_Critterus
12-11-2011, 11:30am
Lars serves many purposes, one of which is mocking out that stoopid hat you wear......:seasix:

Hmm, I never remember Larry doing that. Either that or I skipped over his posts again :lol:

DAB
12-11-2011, 11:35am
Just mount it and let it look like crap? Aren't you a craftsman?

I'd scribe it.

But if you can't then I'm out of ideas.

Unless you can find some small trim (should be flexible enough to follow the imperfections of the wall) to hide the gaps.

Maybe 1/4 round or cove.

Munch
12-11-2011, 11:39am
I'd scribe it.

But if you can't then I'm out of ideas.


Well, can you tell me how you would scribe it? I'm really not looking forward to my current solution.

Jeff '79
12-11-2011, 11:39am
Hmm, I never remember Larry doing that. Either that or I skipped over his posts again :lol:

My mistake.....I meant those stoopid little mini bikes.......:seasix: That was me who mocks the stoopid hat out.....

Jeff '79
12-11-2011, 11:45am
Scribing the shelf is the correct solution. Otherwise, tearing the sheet rock off the wall and furring it out, and then re-rocking it would be the correct way to do it...
If you never mixed drywall, don't start now.. The tools that you need, and the perfection that it demands is far and above what you prolly have....
Don't you have a friend that is a carpenter ? Just have him over and scribe it, and cut it. That is the best, least messy,and most inexpensive solution. It's done all the time for kitchen counter tops, shelving, etc.....
Let us know what you decide, and good luck......:cert:

kingpin
12-11-2011, 11:46am
You can scribe into the drywall also.
Draw the shelf on the wall where it would be.
Find the high spots and carefully remove some of the drywall by cutting and scraping.
Mount shelf and use a little bit of colored putty or dark caulking to finish any gaps.

EDIT: This can really look terrible if you f*** it up.

DAB
12-11-2011, 11:54am
Well, can you tell me how you would scribe it? I'm really not looking forward to my current solution.

How to Build a Bookcase | Step-by-Step | Cabinets & Shelving | This Old House - 7 (http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/step/0,,1080823_899978,00.html)

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/step/0,,1080823_902396,00.html

basically, you position shelf in position where you want it. then mark the curve of the wall onto the shelf with a compass, set to the max gap. then cut/plane/shave/sand off the excess, and you should have a shelf back that exactly follows the wall contours.

Munch
12-11-2011, 11:55am
Sounds like the scribing is the way to go. thanks for the info! :cheers:

Jeff '79
12-11-2011, 11:58am
How to Build a Bookcase | Step-by-Step | Cabinets & Shelving | This Old House - 7 (http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/step/0,,1080823_899978,00.html)

How to Build a Bookcase | Step-by-Step | Cabinets & Shelving | This Old House - 9 (http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/step/0,,1080823_902396,00.html)

basically, you position shelf in position where you want it. then mark the curve of the wall onto the shelf with a compass, set to the max gap. then cut/plane/shave/sand off the excess, and you should have a shelf back that exactly follows the wall contours.

:seasix: Ya, that's perfect....One thing I would suggest is to try this on a piece of 2x4, or furring strip first, so that you are comfortable with what you are doing, and so that you don't mess up the good stuff.....It's a lot easier than you may think......:yesnod:

DAB
12-11-2011, 11:58am
Sounds like the scribing is the way to go. thanks for the info! :cheers:

see above.

suggestion: get some scrap material, say 1/4" thick plywood, and practice with that first. you can buy a sheet of 1/4" luaun plywood for about $11.

added benefit: if you can get it to fit the wall, then you can use the scribed piece of plywood to directly mark onto the workpiece.

Stangkiller
12-11-2011, 12:01pm
Before opening this thread My advice was going to be hire somebody. After reading this thread, my advice is hire somebody. :cheers:

Munch
12-11-2011, 12:04pm
Good idea on the practice stock.

DAB
12-11-2011, 12:39pm
Good idea on the practice stock.

or a piece of 1x3 or 1x4 cheap pine.

Grey Ghost
12-11-2011, 1:42pm
Most any auto body supply will have them online or brick/mortar store too. It is like auto body repair though. You really need to feather it out over a large area to avoid seeing the high low spots.

The scribing thing sounds like the best solution. The dust from all the compound sanding will cover everything in the room.

Dura-Block - Sanding Blocks (http://www.dura-block.com/durablockline.html)

That's exactly what I am doing. Where can I get a 48" longboard??:seasix:

oahuyahoo
12-11-2011, 2:43pm
Sounds like the scribing is the way to go. thanks for the info! :cheers:

:iagree: That's how we do it.