Vehicle drama is FUN !!

[Aerovette]

1995 Chevy K1500 - had no heat during 30-40 degree temps. Had to replace the heater core yesterday.

2002 Isuzu Rodeo - Water pump failed and head gasket blew. New gasket kit and water pump on the way.

2015 GMC Sierra - THIRD time lifter failure in cylinder 7. "Should be" a warranty repair but the shop has given themselves an out by saying the oil pump could be weak and 7 is the last to get oiled. I am a diligent gauge watcher and at idle, I'm at 30lbs. Under hard acceleration, I have seen it hit 80lbs. Doesn't seem like a valid cause to me. Oil had 65% life and was at proper level.

Cars are fun !!

And for reading, I reward you with this...

[dvarapala]

And for reading, I reward you with this...

Didn't read, but thanks for the pic. :thumbs:

[Aerovette]

Didn't read, but thanks for the pic. :thumbs:

Sorry. if you didn't read, then I must ask that you unsee the picture. :D

[Chuck A]

Mmmm that booty
Very nice , indeed
And yes no clue

[Big bob]

Damn you sure have bad luck with cars but have a beautiful ass.:seasix:

[Bill]

Damn you sure have bad luck with cars but have a beautiful ass.:seasix:

Yeah, OK, but what about the pic Aero posted? Any thoughts about that?

:dance:




:leaving:

[ZipZap]

Does the Sierra have cylinder deactivation?

[Aerovette]

Does the Sierra have cylinder deactivation?

Ha, oh yeah. You know it. :mad:

[dvarapala]

Sorry. if you didn't read, then I must ask that you unsee the picture. :D

Yeah, good luck with that. :lol:

[Stangkiller]

What is up with your truck eating lifters? Is it that cylinder deactivation stuff, can it be disabled?

[Bill]

Ha, oh yeah. You know it. :mad:

My buddy just had a total rebuild on his 2009 Dodge 1/2 ton with the hemi....and cylinder deactivation. About $ 4K. Mechanic said Chevys and Dodges with the cylinder deactivation were prone to problems. My buddy's had burn marks on a few of the lifters AND the cam shaft had a spot that was just worn down, eaten, really..

Mechanic said frequent oil changes were the best insurance, and recommended Seafoam in both the oil and gas.

[Aerovette]

What is up with your truck eating lifters? Is it that cylinder deactivation stuff, can it be disabled?


Deactivating is no assurance the lifters won't fail. It's a common problem with these engines. Piss poor design...scratch that. From an engineering standpoint, I give them props. From a real world standpoint it sucks. One of those things that looks good on paper.

[Frankie the Fink]

My buddy just had a total rebuild on his 2009 Dodge 1/2 ton with the hemi....and cylinder deactivation. About $ 4K. Mechanic said Chevys and Dodges with the cylinder deactivation were prone to problems. My buddy's had burn marks on a few of the lifters AND the cam shaft had a spot that was just worn down, eaten, really..

Mechanic said frequent oil changes were the best insurance, and recommended Seafoam in both the oil and gas.
There are better products than Seafoam now but yeah Honda has VCM (Variable Cylinder Management) and its all driven by computers and oil pressure through tiny passages - pristine oil is a MUST....

I'll never, ever own another Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler; my daughter's 2014 Hemi Grand Cherokee has been a black hole for money, fuel pumps (big $$$), warped exhaust manifold, the dreaded TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) containing a $2 relay that works the fuel pump but takes $600 to rewire and fix correctly, motor mounts and a bunch of other crap.

[Murray]

Does the Sierra have cylinder deactivation?

It does now :D

[LATB]

Trade that Georgia Mountain Climber on a truck w/o that deactivation chit. :ack:

[LATB]

It does now :D

:funniest::funniest::funniest:

[Aerovette]

Trade that Georgia Mountain Climber on a truck w/o that deactivation chit. :ack:

I just had this conversation yesterday. :seasix:

[Chemtrails99]

I hate cars now. Starting with my '02 ZO6, it seems like the thing brought a virus in that destroyed all my othe cars. Constant stream of issues that prevent it from being driven. Combo of bad timing for problems and weird problems.

Got a dead 07 van that needs???, a dead F 250 that needs a timing chain, a old CJ that needs ??? and...the never-ending repair, er Vette. Anybody else change a water pump, find out ne of the bolts had corroded into place at the tip and it ripped out threads during disassembly...then the threadchaser cleaning it out broke off in the block?

At least the wife's tired 04 Silverado still runs. Never again with an American car.

[Aerovette]

I hate cars now. Starting with my '02 ZO6, it seems like the thing brought a virus in that destroyed all my othe cars. Constant stream of issues that prevent it from being driven. Combo of bad timing for problems and weird problems.

Got a dead 07 van that needs???, a dead F 250 that needs a timing chain, a old CJ that needs ??? and...the never-ending repair, er Vette. Anybody else change a water pump, find out ne of the bolts had corroded into place at the tip and it ripped out threads during disassembly...then the threadchaser cleaning it out broke off in the block?

At least the wife's tired 04 Silverado still runs. Never again with an American car.

Very relatable. A shop broke off an exhaust manifold bolt in the head of the Rodeo. They attempted to fix it by hand drilling and drilled crooked. When I had the head off last, I tried cleaning it up as a crooked bolt is better than no bolt. I snapped the damn tap off in the hole. Ok, I can fix that. I got on line to buy a tap removal tool. Apparently the old Sears tap sets are the only ones with 4 splines instead of three and the tool doesn't work. It's had a cold engine exhaust leak ever since. Not worth the trouble to fix.

It is always mazing how you can drive something and shut it off. and the next day it has something wrong. WTH happens in the middle of the night? :willy:

I know I'm in deep when the shop wouldn't even give an estimate to fix the car I am working on. :Jeff '79:

I'll get it running and sell it to be hauled to Mexico.

[UniqueDoug]

I thought you were done with that AFM turd (when I said Silverado the other week I misspoke).

[Chemtrails99]

Very relatable. A shop broke off an exhaust manifold bolt in the head of the Rodeo. They attempted to fix it by hand drilling and drilled crooked. When I had the head off last, I tried cleaning it up as a crooked bolt is better than no bolt. I snapped the damn tap off in the hole. Ok, I can fix that. I got on line to buy a tap removal tool. Apparently the old Sears tap sets are the only ones with 4 splines instead of three and the tool doesn't work. It's had a cold engine exhaust leak ever since. Not worth the trouble to fix.

It is always mazing how you can drive something and shut it off. and the next day it has something wrong. WTH happens in the middle of the night? :willy:

I know I'm in deep when the shop wouldn't even give an estimate to fix the car I am working on. :Jeff '79:

I'll get it running and sell it to be hauled to Mexico.


Highlight has become the story of my life. F-250 was running fine, parked it a week or so and it's never started since.

In the Vette, Location of the waterpump bolt on front of engine makes it impossible to get in there and drill it out. Tap Removal tools haven't fit to work. Might be able to get a drill at it if I pull the hood nd radiator on the front. Hard to deal with when you can't get a direct line of site on it. Next attempt is a chemical tap remover used in aviation to melt steel taps away that are stuck in aluminum surfaces........time will tell. My friends are telling me to JB Weld the water pump in place with the remaining bolts and dump the car instead....:banghead:

[UniqueDoug]

Deactivating is no assurance the lifters won't fail. It's a common problem with these engines. Piss poor design...scratch that. From an engineering standpoint, I give them props. From a real world standpoint it sucks. One of those things that looks good on paper.

Have you even tried with the Range disabler? The last AFM turd I bought was a 2011 Tahoe, Range solved a lifter noise, then I flipped it shortly after, learned my lesson, and had to stop flipping any GM product with that garbage engine.

[Aerovette]

Next attempt is a chemical tap remover used in aviation to melt steel taps away that are stuck in aluminum surfaces

What? Tell me more.

[Aerovette]

Have you even tried with the Range disabler? The last AFM turd I bought was a 2011 Tahoe, Range solved a lifter noise, then I flipped it shortly after, learned my lesson, and had to stop flipping any GM product with that garbage engine.

I bought a Range and if you understand the design of the lifter, you will realize it does nothing. When I'd use it, it would throw strange codes and CEL. Stuck it in the console and never used it again.

Lifter life is a total crap shoot. There are people with 200k miles and never had a failure, there are people with brand new trucks that lost a lifter at 2000 miles.

[Chemtrails99]

What? Tell me more.


Here's the link. There is a video out on Youtube that takes a little digging to find. https://chemical-supermarket.com/Tap-X-Broken-Tap-Removal-Kit-p574.html

If your broken tap is in a head, you can ship it to Jerry's Broken Tap in SoCal and he can burn it out and helicoil it as needed.

[Aerovette]

Just read that Nitric acid will dissolve a tap and not hurt aluminum. Coincidentally, I have access to Nitric acid. :yesnod:

[Bill]

Just read that Nitric acid will dissolve a tap and not hurt aluminum. Coincidentally, I have access to Nitric acid. :yesnod:

Should we be notifying local area level one trauma center hospitals?

:ohnoes:

[Chemtrails99]

Just read that Nitric acid will dissolve a tap and not hurt aluminum. Coincidentally, I have access to Nitric acid. :yesnod:

That's great. Maybe you can get the bastard out, then drill it and helicoil it. I can't pull the engine for one bolt, but pulling a head wouldn't be too bad!

[Aerovette]

Shop called:

New manager. They are standing behind the last repair and will cover it under warranty. That's the good news.

The bad news is they believe the source of the problem is a weak oil pump. They also believe this failure has damaged the cam.

So here is where I am.
As a driver, I rely on the gauges to tell me if there is a problem. 30 - 80psi of oil does not raise my eyebrows. I believe that if they replace the oil pump and the dash gauge reads the same, I should not have to pay for that repair.
I also expressed concern about the cam the last time it was repaired and was assured it would be ok and secondly, that if it was an issue, they would cover it. Now it appears it is an issue, BUT but blaming the oil pump, the cam is not on them.
If I am getting a new cam, I want them to explore a complete AFM delete path. Get that shit out of there and give me a regular engine. Of course that expense is all on me.

I am going up there to meet the new manager and discuss these options, but it's a money vs warranty and a responsibility play at this point. What should they cover and what should I cover.

I think if it is repaired without AFM delete. They should cover all parts involved except the oil pump and I'll pay for that since I was made aware of it during the last repair. I don't think it's bad, but I'm willing to replace it, JUST so they don't use it as an ongoing issue should it fail again.

[Aerovette]

That's great. Maybe you can get the bastard out, then drill it and helicoil it. I can't pull the engine for one bolt, but pulling a head wouldn't be too bad!

I had a thought about your situation. They recommend building a modeling clay dam around the hole to contain the acid and bubbling. Yours is horizontal. I wonder if you could do something like this...

[UniqueDoug]

I bought a Range and if you understand the design of the lifter, you will realize it does nothing. When I'd use it, it would throw strange codes and CEL. Stuck it in the console and never used it again.

Lifter life is a total crap shoot. There are people with 200k miles and never had a failure, there are people with brand new trucks that lost a lifter at 2000 miles.

I’ve used two or three of them, always had good luck with them, apparently your experience was vastly different.

[UniqueDoug]

Shop called:

New manager. They are standing behind the last repair and will cover it under warranty. That's the good news.

The bad news is they believe the source of the problem is a weak oil pump. They also believe this failure has damaged the cam.

So here is where I am.
As a driver, I rely on the gauges to tell me if there is a problem. 30 - 80psi of oil does not raise my eyebrows. I believe that if they replace the oil pump and the dash gauge reads the same, I should not have to pay for that repair.
I also expressed concern about the cam the last time it was repaired and was assured it would be ok and secondly, that if it was an issue, they would cover it. Now it appears it is an issue, BUT but blaming the oil pump, the cam is not on them.
If I am getting a new cam, I want them to explore a complete AFM delete path. Get that shit out of there and give me a regular engine. Of course that expense is all on me.

I am going up there to meet the new manager and discuss these options, but it's a money vs warranty and a responsibility play at this point. What should they cover and what should I cover.

I think if it is repaired without AFM delete. They should cover all parts involved except the oil pump and I'll pay for that since I was made aware of it during the last repair. I don't think it's bad, but I'm willing to replace it, JUST so they don't use it as an ongoing issue should it fail again.

Damn what an ordeal. That turbo TN guy, I think that’s his username over there, has done the delete, he made it sound pretty straightforward, is that even something you would consider to save money?

What do you think your worst case scenario is repair bill wise right now after the shop covering what they said they were going to cover?

It’s possible you might be at the throwing good money after bad to put Band-Aid fixes on that AFM engine. I wonder if a crate LS3 would bolt up. :D

[Bill]

Interesting article about the issues. For those like me, who don't read well, it has plenty of pictures and video.

https://www.autocornerd.com/chevy-afm-problem-years/

Seems like the fix ought to be some way to turn off the cylinder deactivation, just like the 1st to 4th shift interlock.....just delete that 'feature.'

I wish there was some way to turn off the "auto stop" feature on my Cruze. I mean, whatever minute savings I achieve will be more than offset by an expensive premature starter failure. Engine failure because of cylinder deactivation is, as Jeff is finding out, is even MORE costly.

[Aerovette]

Interesting article about the issues. For those like me, who don't read well, it has plenty of pictures and video.

https://www.autocornerd.com/chevy-afm-problem-years/

Seems like the fix ought to be some way to turn off the cylinder deactivation, just like the 1st to 4th shift interlock.....just delete that 'feature.'

I wish there was some way to turn off the "auto stop" feature on my Cruze. I mean, whatever minute savings I achieve will be more than offset by an expensive premature starter failure. Engine failure because of cylinder deactivation is, as Jeff is finding out, is even MORE costly.


The Range device does deactivate those lifters BUT, the lifters themselves suck so they can still fail.


The auto off is an easy fix. There is a cable that gets installed between two connectors that will defeat it.

[Chemtrails99]

I had a thought about your situation. They recommend building a modeling clay dam around the hole to contain the acid and bubbling. Yours is horizontal. I wonder if you could do something like this...

That's what I was planning on doing. Thinking about making a plastic support to fill with clay and taping it in place so the clay can't fall off the vertical wall. Worst part is that it is in a very awkward place to get at. Going to remove the hood and see if direct front access solves the issue. I am waiting on the shipment to arrive and dreading actually using it at this point....

[Black94lt1]

Interesting article about the issues. For those like me, who don't read well, it has plenty of pictures and video.

https://www.autocornerd.com/chevy-afm-problem-years/

Seems like the fix ought to be some way to turn off the cylinder deactivation, just like the 1st to 4th shift interlock.....just delete that 'feature.'

I wish there was some way to turn off the "auto stop" feature on my Cruze. I mean, whatever minute savings I achieve will be more than offset by an expensive premature starter failure. Engine failure because of cylinder deactivation is, as Jeff is finding out, is even MORE costly.

Does autostop eliminator offer a kit for your Cruze? I think most of the autostops now use compression firing to restart the engine rather than the starter, but either way the first button pressed in our equinox after starting it is the button to turn the auto stop off, yes thankfully GM inclded that right on the dash.

[Bill]

Does autostop eliminator offer a kit for your Cruze? I think most of the autostops now use compression firing to restart the engine rather than the starter, but either way the first button pressed in our equinox after starting it is the button to turn the auto stop off, yes thankfully GM inclded that right on the dash.


Quick check indicates they only sell their products for trucks and SUV's. Makes sense, I bet most beater car owners won't bother to spend money to fix this problem. And after 6 years, I probably wouldn't drop a hundred bucks on it, either, I'll just save that for a new starter. I've also learned how to kind of stop gradually, feather the brake, and keep it from engaging most of the time, anyway.

[Aerovette]

That's what I was planning on doing. Thinking about making a plastic support to fill with clay and taping it in place so the clay can't fall off the vertical wall. Worst part is that it is in a very awkward place to get at. Going to remove the hood and see if direct front access solves the issue. I am waiting on the shipment to arrive and dreading actually using it at this point....


I have a glass jar with about 3 ounces of nitric acid and I have two plastic disposable tubes to suck it out of the jar with and put it in the bolt hole. The videos I could find made it look easy. This may be video worthy. I am pretty sure I have a damaged tap that I may use as a test before I do the real deal. I want to see how much it dissolves. Really interesting concept and could save me a lot of time and trouble.

[Yadkin]

What is up with your truck eating lifters? Is it that cylinder deactivation stuff, can it be disabled?

C
H
I
N
A

[Aerovette]

C
H
I
N
A

Are Eatons made in China? I don't know. :island14:

[Yadkin]

Are Eatons made in China? I don't know. :island14:

I have no idea. The last video I saw on the subject showed "delamination" of the cam and lifter rollers. That wasn't an oiling issue- it was metallurgy. And from my experience, Chia can make something that looks the part but be of inferior material.

[Aerovette]

I have no idea. The last video I saw on the subject showed "delamination" of the cam and lifter rollers. That wasn't an oiling issue- it was metallurgy. And from my experience, Chia can make something that looks the part but be of inferior material.

I started a very shallow dive and found that Eaton bought a lifter manufacturer in Mexico. :(

[Bill]

I started a very shallow dive and found that Eaton bought a lifter manufacturer in Mexico. :(

They were probably forging the lifters by burning cow shit, the same way they used to fire bricks.

[UniqueDoug]

You know Jeff I do a pretty good job answering most your questions when they’re serious, care to address any of these?

Damn what an ordeal. That turbo TN guy, I think that’s his username over there, has done the delete, he made it sound pretty straightforward, is that even something you would consider to save money?

What do you think your worst case scenario is repair bill wise right now after the shop covering what they said they were going to cover?

It’s possible you might be at the throwing good money after bad to put Band-Aid fixes on that AFM engine. I wonder if a crate LS3 would bolt up. :D

[Aerovette]

Yes, $5000, too expensive

YW

[UniqueDoug]

Yes, $5000, too expensive

YW

TY

Yolo, $8000 and tell them you want them to install it for free to offset the credit they were going to give you. Add $3 net. Get rid of AFM garbage. Winning!

[LATB]

I wish there was some way to turn off the "auto stop"



Best way to deal with all this start-stop and Cylinder deactivation crap is buy a truck without that bullchit.

[Chemtrails99]

I have a glass jar with about 3 ounces of nitric acid and I have two plastic disposable tubes to suck it out of the jar with and put it in the bolt hole. The videos I could find made it look easy. This may be video worthy. I am pretty sure I have a damaged tap that I may use as a test before I do the real deal. I want to see how much it dissolves. Really interesting concept and could save me a lot of time and trouble.

I'd love to know the resuluts and how long it takes to melt it out too....!

[Yadkin]

I started a very shallow dive and found that Eaton bought a lifter manufacturer in Mexico. :(

Mexico > China. El Jefe tends to be a hard-working, honest individual.

[dvarapala]

Best way to deal with all this start-stop and Cylinder deactivation crap is buy a truck without that bullchit.

^ this

BEVs don't have that shit - just sayin'. :D

[Aerovette]

I'd love to know the resuluts and how long it takes to melt it out too....!

I was absolutely going to keep you posted, but I got the impression your timeline might actually pass mine. I planned to do it this weekend but the weather is going to slow me a bit.

[Aerovette]

TY

Yolo, $8000 and tell them you want them to install it for free to offset the credit they were going to give you. Add $3 net. Get rid of AFM garbage. Winning!

This Gen transmission is nothing to brag about. That engine will kick the can down the road until it hits the transmission.

[UniqueDoug]

This Gen transmission is nothing to brag about. That engine will kick the can down the road until it hits the transmission.

True, and I had that thought shortly after making the suggestion, 2015 I think you have that 6 speed right? I hate those six speeds, they’re almost as bad as the 8 that followed. I swear the best truck to buy from GM is still the 07 classic and back, couldn’t kill that 5.3 Vortec and the 4L60E held its own.

[Bill]

Thunderbolt Commercial, 3/1988 - YouTube

[LATB]

^ this

BEVs don't have that shit - just sayin'. :D

eff dat.

I was thinking 6.7L Power Stroke V8 Turbo Diesel :D

[Aerovette]

True, and I had that thought shortly after making the suggestion, 2015 I think you have that 6 speed right? I hate those six speeds, they’re almost as bad as the 8 that followed. I swear the best truck to buy from GM is still the 07 classic and back, couldn’t kill that 5.3 Vortec and the 4L60E held its own.

My 2001 truck was beat on like a rented mule and rarely broke down...and if it did, it was simple to fix. I don't count self-inflicted breakdowns as "problematic". What I do count as problematic are failed repairs, failures on poorly designed components, and nearly any drivetrain issues on a pavement princess that has a recorded average speed of 35mph for the life of my ownership. I'm sure as hell not tracking/racing this truck.

[Bill]

These folks recommend delete kits, which, as luck would have it, are most easily installed when your engine is already apart because it's ****ed up:


https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/11/30/how-to-delete-or-disable-active-fuel-management-afm-on-gm-engines/

Active Fuel Management (AFM) is a trademarked General Motors technology that improves gas mileage by shutting down half of the cylinders under light-load conditions to reduce fuel consumption. It is also known as Displacement on Demand (DoD) or cylinder deactivation.
How Does AFM Affect Performance?

AFM is good for gas mileage and can be 5-7 percent more fuel-efficient under certain conditions.
So Why Turn it Off?

There are a few reasons:

Many people find the four-cylinder sound annoying if their vehicle is equipped with a louder aftermarket exhaust.
Some drivers want V8 power under their foot at all times.
AFM lifters have a history of failing and oil consumption can be a problem.

How to Delete or Disable AFM on GM/Chevy Engines

There are two ways to disable or delete Active Fuel Management on your GM or Chevy Gen IV LS or LS-based Vortec engine—one is to install an AFM Disabler, and the second is to install an AFM Delete Kit. Here’s what you need to know:
1. Install an AFM Delete Kit

An AFM Delete Kit is recommended when an AFM lifter fails or when doing performance upgrades. It replaces the AFM components with standard parts.

When installing an AFM delete kit:

You MUST upgrade to a non-AFM camshaft because the cam lobes in the four AFM cylinders are ground differently. The engine will have 25 less pounds of compression in those four cylinders which can result in a misfire code.
You will need to turn off the AFM system using a computer programmer or custom tuning.
It’s a little more work, but it’s recommended that you plug the pressure relief valve in the oil pan.
It is also recommended that you switch to a standard-volume oil pump.

2. Install an AFM Disabler

An AFM Disabler is an electronic device that plugs into the OBD-II port, under the dashboard. It prevents the computer from switching over to four-cylinder mode. It’s a simple and effective way to turn off the AFM system and provides the added bonus of improving exhaust sound.

NOTE: A disabler device should ONLY be used if the valvetrain is in good working order.

Engines with AFM use a high-volume oil pump. When you eliminate the AFM system, the extra oil is no longer needed. Excess oil will be pushed out of the pressure relief valve into the oil pan. This will spray oil on the bottom of the cylinder walls which can cause oil burning, especially in high-rpm engines.
Which Option is Best—a Disabler or Delete Kit?

As long as a lifter hasn’t started to fail, you can get by with a less-expensive disabler as preventative maintenance. If a lifter has already started to fail, an AFM delete kit and non-AFM components are the way to go.

…

NOTE: If you were in a situation where you’ve installed the AFM delete kit, but don’t have access to a programmer—a disabler can still be a viable option. To do this, you need to leave the AFM solenoid pack connected to ensure no codes are thrown. You can reuse the original valley cover OR use a non-AFM valley cover, leave the harness connected, and tuck the solenoid pack away.

[Aerovette]

These folks recommend delete kits, which, as luck would have it, are most easily installed when your engine is already apart because it's ****ed up:


https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/11/30/how-to-delete-or-disable-active-fuel-management-afm-on-gm-engines/

My concern is creating a unicorn that no one will work on because it is modified.

[Bill]

My concern is creating a unicorn that no one will work on because it is modified.

Then I would do what my buddy with the Dodge did.....rebuild it, and going forward, change the oil much more frequently. Guy had a Chevy in the shop he was doing the same thing on....another rebuilt engine that coincidentally had the same 'feature' of cylinder deactivation.

In reading about this, it seems like you just have to go back to the old days, where you changed oil every 3,000 miles and checked your oil every time you filled up with gas.

I was doing a change every 5K on both my Dodge diesel and my Cruze (that takes full synthetic oil), both at dealer recommendation, but I'm going to back that down I think, for each, especially the Cruze, since the mechanic mentioned they will have similar problems as they start approaching 100k miles if it's not VERY well maintained, because oil channels get blocked with sludge fairly easily.

The mechanic's off the cuff advice was, if you've got an engine oil calculator in the computer that gives you oil life percentage......when it gets down to 50%, change the oil. Seems a little inconvenient, but not as inconvenient as having a motor rebuilt later on.

[Aerovette]

Then I would do what my buddy with the Dodge did.....rebuild it, and going forward, change the oil much more frequently. Guy had a Chevy in the shop he was doing the same thing on....another rebuilt engine that coincidentally had the same 'feature' of cylinder deactivation.

In reading about this, it seems like you just have to go back to the old days, where you changed oil every 3,000 miles and checked your oil every time you filled up with gas.

I was doing a change every 5K on both my Dodge diesel and my Cruze (that takes full synthetic oil), both at dealer recommendation, but I'm going to back that down I think, for each, especially the Cruze, since the mechanic mentioned they will have similar problems as they start approaching 100k miles if it's not VERY well maintained, because oil channels get blocked with sludge fairly easily.

The mechanic's off the cuff advice was, if you've got an engine oil calculator in the computer that gives you oil life percentage......when it gets down to 50%, change the oil. Seems a little inconvenient, but not as inconvenient as having a motor rebuilt later on.

I usually change it at 30-40%. This oil is at 65% right now and it reads full on the stick.

Here is an interesting point. Of course there is no possible way to prove they are liable but in both cases of these last two failures, I had a Quik-lube place by my office do the oil change. THEIR oil was in the truck. It is possible that was the case the first time too, but I don't have record of it. I get my inspections done there and the oil changes in my old truck, so I had no issue. I asked each time if they have Mobile-1. They say yes, and off to the races. It could be coincidence, but it is an odd one. There were a couple/few oil changes done at the shop where it is now and I don't recall any issues. Very anecdotal, but it makes me wonder.

[DJ_Critterus]

eff dat.

I was thinking 6.7L Power Stroke V8 Turbo Diesel :D

Ehh....not a fan of the power stroke. LEt it get hot just once and the heads tend to crack. Same happens if you don't change the fuel filter regularly and get water in the cylinder. dad fixes a lot of those cracked heads at the machine shop.

[LATB]

Ehh....not a fan of the power stroke. LEt it get hot just once and the heads tend to crack. Same happens if you don't change the fuel filter regularly and get water in the cylinder. dad fixes a lot of those cracked heads at the machine shop.

Meh. I have a 100K mile warranty.

[DJ_Critterus]

Meh. I have a 100K mile warranty.

I bought the 7 year 1M mile extended warranty for my truck when I bought it. Love that Cummins 6.7

[LATB]

I bought the 7 year 1M mile extended warranty for my truck when I bought it. Love that Cummins 6.7

The Cummins is a great sounding motor. :cert:

[Aerovette]

Maybe I should stop hanging up on the car warranty people? :Jeff '79:

[Bill]

Maybe I should stop hanging up on the car warranty people? :Jeff '79:

Will you be pleasing to do the needful thing and give us your credit card number and Social Security number?

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/5Te-jnS_Dq0/maxresdefault.jpg

[DJ_Critterus]

Maybe I should stop hanging up on the car warranty people? :Jeff '79:

I let the saleshole talk me into it, but it was actually a good deal so I added it in.

[Bill]

bump, so folks have an opportunity to discuss something, ANYTHING but the dumpster fire currently captivating the forum

[Aerovette]

bump, so folks have an opportunity to discuss something, ANYTHING but the dumpster fire currently captivating the forum

I'm not impressed with this new manager. He was to get me numbers by yesterday afternoon. They close in one hour and I have NO updates.

[Aerovette]

Update:

2015 Truck
I went to the shop to meet the new manager. Talked for two hours. I went away with a different attitude about him. He's a sharp guy. Nows cars and knows customer service. We went back and forth on what should be done, root cause of the failure etc.

He and his A-1 tech both believe that I "should" replace the oil pump. They don't think it was the cause however. Fromw what I could see, the lifter rotated in the bore and was no longer a roller lifter as the roller was sideways and riding the cam. The roller has about a 1/32 flat spot AND he placed it back in the keeper and was able to rotate it.
The cam is toast.
What we landed on is this...
New cam
ALL new lifters, both banks
ALL new keepers
New VLOM
New Oil pump
12/12 warranty
Two oil changes before I pick it up, to flush and filter any remnants
One oil change with Mobile 1 to send me home with.
$3500.00

Essentially about a $5500.00 discount due to this being the third time this lifter failed and it is under their warranty. In essence, I'm paying for the oil pump change as if it were a stand alone job.

I'm not thrilled, but I'm satisfied.

Rodeo

Head gasket is toast. Now we get into the shit of it. I can never prove it, but very recently the Rodeo had a cooling system flush done. It is my belief that the flush is the cause of the head gasket failure. One side of the engine had EVERY water jacket passage blocked with what looks and feels like orange mud or clay. I think they did a chemical flush and it removed rust and created a rusty sludge that blocked the water from flowing through the head. It was a MESS. Now I don't know what to do about it. I have the head off, but I have no idea how to flush out the system without getting water in the oil and cylinders. I don't think there is a way and I hate the thought of buttoning it back up and having more sludge flow through and repeat the whole mess. The entire gasket set is only about 85 bucks, but the job of replacing it sucks.

Any thoughts or input aside from junking it or burning, are welcome.

I've got the nitric acid brewing in the hole with the broken tap. So far it seems afailed experiment, but I'll do it again tomorrow and see if it works.

[Bill]

This guy has a pretty decent video about flushing. I suspect any shop that flushed your coolant didn't do it as thoroughly as this guy, and really, look at all the mess he's made. Shops aren't going to want all that all over their floor, so you probably had yours drained and replaced, vs. actually vigorously flushed like this guy does:


Flush Your Cooling System - The Proper Way! - YouTube

[Aerovette]

This guy has a pretty decent video about flushing. I suspect any shop that flushed your coolant didn't do it as thoroughly as this guy, and really, look at all the mess he's made. Shops aren't going to want all that all over their floor, so you probably had yours drained and replaced, vs. actually vigorously flushed like this guy does:


Flush Your Cooling System - The Proper Way! - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUIma8ATKvg)

Bill,

The issue in my case, is a cooling jacket that is about 2 inches long and 3/8 wide sending water through a hole in the head gasket that is the size of a BB. WTF do they do this? Almost any amount of debris will not pass through that hole and will build up behind anything that is trying to pass through. It's like an 8 lane road squeezing in to a bike path, then back to an 8 lane road. If I shoot pressure into the system, I'm surely going to be trying to force any debris through those tiny gasket holes.



I just found out this morning that the VLOM (oil controller for the lifters) for my truck, is on indefinite backorder nationally. :mad:

[DJ_Critterus]

Bill,

The issue in my case, is a cooling jacket that is about 2 inches long and 3/8 wide sending water through a hole in the head gasket that is the size of a BB. WTF do they do this? Almost any amount of debris will not pass through that hole and will build up behind anything that is trying to pass through. It's like an 8 lane road squeezing in to a bike path, then back to an 8 lane road. If I shoot pressure into the system, I'm surely going to be trying to force any debris through those tiny gasket holes.



I just found out this morning that the VLOM (oil controller for the lifters) for my truck, is on indefinite backorder nationally. :mad:

Time to get a water ski and go to town on the truck :yesnod:

[Aerovette]

I'd love to know the resuluts and how long it takes to melt it out too....!

Chemtrails99

Every day this week I had put nitric acid in the hole with the broken tap and every evening or following morning, I have flushed it and done it again.

I am reporting that after 6 days, there is absolutely no visible change to the broken tap and it is still in there as tight as day 1.

At this point I declare this method of removal a complete FAIL.

The extraction tool for a 4 fluted tap should arrive Saturday. We'll see how that goes.

[Aerovette]

As if it already was not apparent, I'm a dumbass.

Stupid, stupid, stupid :ulan:

In my rush to get the tool and abandon the acid experiment, I ordered the wrong tool.

Rookie error. I needed an M8 extractor and ordered a #8 extractor. :ulan:

[Chemtrails99]

As if it already was not apparent, I'm a dumbass.

Stupid, stupid, stupid :ulan:

In my rush to get the tool and abandon the acid experiment, I ordered the wrong tool.

Rookie error. I needed an M8 extractor and ordered a #8 extractor. :ulan:

Good luck with it. I am trying to remove a thread chaser, not a regular tap. Those kind of extractors don't fit the flutes on the side of a chaser....following for the next update!

[Aerovette]

Good luck with it. I am trying to remove a thread chaser, not a regular tap. Those kind of extractors don't fit the flutes on the side of a chaser....following for the next update!

I am taking home another batch of acid and continuing the experiment. I've reached a point where I have a choice of paying for the repair with time, or paying with money and I'm choosing time.

Things I have learned...

Do NOT use straight acid thinking it is better than diluted. I learned of the term "passivation" which is the formation of a skin of corrosion that actually protects the part from...corrosion. It appears that my first two days of applying acid straight, caused this to happen. Passivation is removed by abrasion (I can only hit the top of the part), polishing (not an option) or time (6-8 weeks apparently, so also not an option)

Based on other's experience, the part can become brittle and a solid few hits with a punch have been known to shatter the part in the hole and it can be picked out, vacuumed out, or tipped and fall out. NOT in my case. I smacked it with a punch and wedged it further in the hole at an angle. This is why I'll keep going with the acid.

Some of the ballers may be asking why I don't pay the guy. All you can learn from paying the guy is how much it costs. This has become a learning experience and I am not ready to surrender to the guy just yet.

[Chemtrails99]

I am taking home another batch of acid and continuing the experiment. I've reached a point where I have a choice of paying for the repair with time, or paying with money and I'm choosing time.

Things I have learned...

Do NOT use straight acid thinking it is better than diluted. I learned of the term "passivation" which is the formation of a skin of corrosion that actually protects the part from...corrosion. It appears that my first two days of applying acid straight, caused this to happen. Passivation is removed by abrasion (I can only hit the top of the part), polishing (not an option) or time (6-8 weeks apparently, so also not an option)

Based on other's experience, the part can become brittle and a solid few hits with a punch have been known to shatter the part in the hole and it can be picked out, vacuumed out, or tipped and fall out. NOT in my case. I smacked it with a punch and wedged it further in the hole at an angle. This is why I'll keep going with the acid.

Some of the ballers may be asking why I don't pay the guy. All you can learn from paying the guy is how much it costs. This has become a learning experience and I am not ready to surrender to the guy just yet.

I understand that. I'm on a tight budget and really don't want to tow the car to anybody to get my chaser out either. Trying to figure out if I need to take the hood off to btetter get at my bolt hole location. Can't see setting up the clay acid damn when unable to even see the problem. Too stressed over other things to make progress right now.

[Aerovette]

I understand that. I'm on a tight budget and really don't want to tow the car to anybody to get my chaser out either. Trying to figure out if I need to take the hood off to btetter get at my bolt hole location. Can't see setting up the clay acid damn when unable to even see the problem. Too stressed over other things to make progress right now.

I came across a variation of your situation. A bolt at a 90 degree position. They attached a rubber hose to the hole with RTV and wrapped the joint in clay. The hose was pointed upward and a small funnel inserted in the house and it was all propped up and supported. They filled the hose with acid and water and had a heat lamp to amplify the reaction. Apparently the tap was gone by morning.

[Aerovette]

Chemtrails99 - Today was the day. The acid worked and I got the broken tap out. It took a LOT longer than what the internet says. I was changing the acid every day at 7:00 AM and again at 7:00PM and finally today I reached in with some small needle nose pliers and pulled the piece out.

[Chemtrails99]

Chemtrails99 - Today was the day. The acid worked and I got the broken tap out. It took a LOT longer than what the internet says. I was changing the acid every day at 7:00 AM and again at 7:00PM and finally today I reached in with some small needle nose pliers and pulled the piece out.

Sweet! I had to clear my work area yet again and hope to get into mine this week. Hope the wife didn't move my package with my chemicals!

[Aerovette]

The VLOM for my truck has been on national backorder with no ETA. Stuck in China apparently. The shop told me on the 14th of February, that it would be there in two weeks. I got a text from them today. No part, no ETA.

Part #19433052

[Bill]

The VLOM for my truck has been on national backorder with no ETA. Stuck in China apparently. The shop told me on the 14th of February, that it would be there in two weeks. I got a text from them today. No part, no ETA.

Part #19433052

Have you tried a wrecking yard? There's plenty on N. Shepherd, and a bunch in Pasadena, too. Several big ones on 249, too.

[Aerovette]

Have you tried a wrecking yard? There's plenty on N. Shepherd, and a bunch in Pasadena, too. Several big ones on 249, too.

Has to be a new part. They are not reusable or cleanable. Especially for a warranty job.

[Aerovette]

Got the Rodeo put back together. Took care of some minor bugs and took it on a couple short store runs. This morning was the maiden voyage. My mother was hesitant to take it very far without me close by in case something went wrong. This morning I suggested that she drive me to my office since it is 50/50 stop and go and highway. It did great. Purring like a kitten, temperature exactly where it should be all systems fully functional.

She dropped me off and 5 minutes later she called...

A woman shot out of the lane beside her and wrecked the side of the Rodeo.

[dvarapala]

My mother was hesitant to take it very far without me close by in case something went wrong.

You should learn to trust your mother. :D

[Bill]

Got the Rodeo put back together. Took care of some minor bugs and took it on a couple short store runs. This morning was the maiden voyage. My mother was hesitant to take it very far without me close by in case something went wrong. This morning I suggested that she drive me to my office since it is 50/50 stop and go and highway. It did great. Purring like a kitten, temperature exactly where it should be all systems fully functional.

She dropped me off and 5 minutes later she called...

A woman shot out of the lane beside her and wrecked the side of the Rodeo.


¿El otro conductor tenía seguro?

[Aerovette]

¿El otro conductor tenía seguro?

Si.

She is a Vietnamese nun (full garb) on her way to take care of a homecare patient.

Here's the problem. KBB puts the car value at about $1500.00. I'm sure that is more than $1500.00 damage. Totaling it will get my mother $1500.00 and that sure isn't going to replace it.

[Bill]

Si.

She is a Vietnamese nun (full garb) on her way to take care of a homecare patient.

Here's the problem. KBB puts the car value at about $1500.00. I'm sure that is more than $1500.00 damage. Totaling it will get my mother $1500.00 and that sure isn't going to replace it.

Looks like two door skins and the rear fender flare, plus associated fasteners, unless you get lucky and find the same color clean parts at a wrecking yard.

If the insurance company totals it, which it sounds like a distinct possibility they will, pull your own comps, asking prices are always optimistic, and thus, in your favor, then consider they owe TT&L on the car, too. Assuming no frame damage and it's all cosmetic, you could negotiate a settlement of cash + you keep the title. You'd have to make sure you keep that clean title, that it never changes hands to the insurance co. and back, so you don't end up with a branded salvage title. No one wants to buy a salvage title.

If it's just cosmetic, what I actually see, I'd check around some wrecking yards and see if you get lucky with the same color, which looks common. If you call, and you get a counter guy you like, see if he'll put your parts on the hot line for you. Should be able to tell you roughly what those 2 doors are going to cost, too. And if you do keep it, if it's cosmetic, you have the luxury of time to periodically check for the parts you need. Maybe they'll be available in the Summer, for example.

[Aerovette]

Looks like two door skins and the rear fender flare, plus associated fasteners, unless you get lucky and find the same color clean parts at a wrecking yard.

If the insurance company totals it, which it sounds like a distinct possibility they will, pull your own comps, asking prices are always optimistic, and thus, in your favor, then consider they owe TT&L on the car, too. Assuming no frame damage and it's all cosmetic, you could negotiate a settlement of cash + you keep the title. You'd have to make sure you keep that clean title, that it never changes hands to the insurance co. and back, so you don't end up with a branded salvage title. No one wants to buy a salvage title.

If it's just cosmetic, what I actually see, I'd check around some wrecking yards and see if you get lucky with the same color, which looks common. If you call, and you get a counter guy you like, see if he'll put your parts on the hot line for you. Should be able to tell you roughly what those 2 doors are going to cost, too. And if you do keep it, if it's cosmetic, you have the luxury of time to periodically check for the parts you need. Maybe they'll be available in the Summer, for example.

https://www.cars.com/shopping/isuzu-rodeo-2002/houston-tx/

[ptindall]

Looks like two door skins and the rear fender flare, plus associated fasteners, unless you get lucky and find the same color clean parts at a wrecking yard.

If the insurance company totals it, which it sounds like a distinct possibility they will, pull your own comps, asking prices are always optimistic, and thus, in your favor, then consider they owe TT&L on the car, too. Assuming no frame damage and it's all cosmetic, you could negotiate a settlement of cash + you keep the title. You'd have to make sure you keep that clean title, that it never changes hands to the insurance co. and back, so you don't end up with a branded salvage title. No one wants to buy a salvage title.

If it's just cosmetic, what I actually see, I'd check around some wrecking yards and see if you get lucky with the same color, which looks common. If you call, and you get a counter guy you like, see if he'll put your parts on the hot line for you. Should be able to tell you roughly what those 2 doors are going to cost, too. And if you do keep it, if it's cosmetic, you have the luxury of time to periodically check for the parts you need. Maybe they'll be available in the Summer, for example.

:iagree: This is probably a good thing. Let the other party's insurance company make a cash settlement offer. You'll probably do just fine.

[Bill]

Edit: If the company does indeed total it, they also owe LOU, loss of use, AKA, a rental, basically from the day you get one, until the day the claim is paid, sometimes a few days after, if you can negotiate it. I understand that rental car prices have skyrocketed like everything else in the Brandon economy, so if it's a total loss settlement or equivalent, or even if it's not, they owe LOU for the time it would take a repair shop to fix it. Just another pot of money you can ask for and negotiate, because in the end, it's just a matter of numbers on the check. If they're playing hardball though, they could merely offer to actually pay for a rental, which it sounds like you don't actually need, since your vehicle had been down previously anyway.

[Aerovette]

Edit: If the company does indeed total it, they also owe LOU, loss of use, AKA, a rental, basically from the day you get one, until the day the claim is paid, sometimes a few days after, if you can negotiate it. I understand that rental car prices have skyrocketed like everything else in the Brandon economy, so if it's a total loss settlement or equivalent, or even if it's not, they owe LOU for the time it would take a repair shop to fix it. Just another pot of money you can ask for and negotiate, because in the end, it's just a matter of numbers on the check. If they're playing hardball though, they could merely offer to actually pay for a rental, which it sounds like you don't actually need, since your vehicle had been down previously anyway.

I'm paying for my rental. I'd rather turn it in and let the other driver pay for a rental.

[Aerovette]

I give up.

The Rodeo was running sweet. Great temps, smooth idle, all systems go. Coming home this evening it felt like it was stumbling very slightly. Got it home and the radiator hoses are pressurized like car tires. The engine temp is dead on, but something is wrong. The reservoir was down about 2-3 inches, but no bubbles blowing in to it. I took off the cap and water is flowing with the cap off so the water pump is definitely working.

I looked up the symptoms of a blown head gasket...

Engine Overheating. - NO !
White Smoke From Tailpipe. ... NO !
Low Coolant Level. ... NO ! (not in the radiator)
Rough Idle/Engine Knock. ... NO!
Contaminated Engine Oil. ... NO !

It was dark and too late to mess with, but I'll pull the plugs and see if they are wet.

I'm at a loss here. At this point the BEST thing that can happen is for the insurance company to total it from this morning's accident.

[Bill]

I give up.

The Rodeo was running sweet. Great temps, smooth idle, all systems go. Coming home this evening it felt like it was stumbling very slightly. Got it home and the radiator hoses are pressurized like car tires. The engine temp is dead on, but something is wrong. The reservoir was down about 2-3 inches, but no bubbles blowing in to it. I took off the cap and water is flowing with the cap off so the water pump is definitely working.

I looked up the symptoms of a blown head gasket...

Engine Overheating. - NO !
White Smoke From Tailpipe. ... NO !
Low Coolant Level. ... NO ! (not in the radiator)
Rough Idle/Engine Knock. ... NO!
Contaminated Engine Oil. ... NO !

It was dark and too late to mess with, but I'll pull the plugs and see if they are wet.

I'm at a loss here. At this point the BEST thing that can happen is for the insurance company to total it from this morning's accident.

Maybe you should let them total it and start over with something else. You got it running just well enough for an insurance company to buy it at full retail AND get you some rental car coverage. Winning!

[Aerovette]

^^ Exactly. I want it totaled and gone. It is going to sit where it is until it gets driven for the estimate.

I just hate that my mom at 82, has to take on a car payment. I can help, but I can't do it all.

[Bill]

^^ Exactly. I want it totaled and gone. It is going to sit where it is until it gets driven for the estimate.

I just hate that my mom at 82, has to take on a car payment. I can help, but I can't do it all.

When you talk to the adjustor or CSR, make sure and tell them you had to get a rental car starting the day of the wreck, as your elderly mom didn't feel safe in it, that way you get as much rental reimbursement as possible. Once they accept liability and agree there is coverage, let the insurance company start direct paying for the rental, and just don't forget to have them include rental reimbursement starting today until the day they accept direct bill.

[Bill]

Update?

Have you heard from the other driver's insurance carrier? If not, NOW is the time to report the claim to them. You're looking for them to

1) confirm coverage applies to that car with that driver and
2) that they accept liability

Hopefully the nun understands and agrees she was at fault, and there is no he said she said, or comparative negligence stuff going on. If the nun already reported the claim, then the adjuster is going to want to take a statement from your mom about the accident, which was,' I was traveling on x street, obeying the speed limit, and the nun swerved into my lane and contacted the rear area of the car. with the front of her car. Mom was unable to avoid the collision.

I will say that, based on those facts, if the nun says your mom encroached into the nun's lane, that story would be plausible, since the nun would probably have been in mom's blind spot.

[Aerovette]

Update?

Have you heard from the other driver's insurance carrier? If not, NOW is the time to report the claim to them. You're looking for them to

1) confirm coverage applies to that car with that driver and
2) that they accept liability

Hopefully the nun understands and agrees she was at fault, and there is no he said she said, or comparative negligence stuff going on. If the nun already reported the claim, then the adjuster is going to want to take a statement from your mom about the accident, which was,' I was traveling on x street, obeying the speed limit, and the nun swerved into my lane and contacted the rear area of the car. with the front of her car. Mom was unable to avoid the collision.

I will say that, based on those facts, if the nun says your mom encroached into the nun's lane, that story would be plausible, since the nun would probably have been in mom's blind spot.

Well, the insurance company called. Took the statement. Agreed the accident was 100% their person's fault and is going to pay to have the car fixed. This is against my better judgement, but it's not my car, not my decision.

[Bill]

Well, the insurance company called. Took the statement. Agreed the accident was 100% their person's fault and is going to pay to have the car fixed. This is against my better judgement, but it's not my car, not my decision.

What about direct billing the rental? Make sure your mom is listed on the rental agreement before you go there, though.

[Aerovette]

What about direct billing the rental? Make sure your mom is listed on the rental agreement before you go there, though.

They are paying for a rental and that will allow me to take mine back.

[Moond0ggie]

Well, the insurance company called. Took the statement. Agreed the accident was 100% their person's fault and is going to pay to have the car fixed. This is against my better judgement, but it's not my car, not my decision.
Not sure, but I dont think you are forced to have the vehicle repaired,
I remember receiving a payout for damage repairs & keeping the money to do my own repairs at 1/2 the cost of the repair shop estimate that was paid to me .

In your case it wouldnt even be worth performing the repairs & you could keep the damage claim money & then sell the vehicle as is & add the two monies together towards a different vehicle ?

[Bill]

They are paying for a rental and that will allow me to take mine back.

:seasix:

[Aerovette]

Update on my truck:

I still don't have it back. Part is still in China with no ETA.

This thread was started early February so I have been without my truck coming up on 11 weeks.

[Aerovette]

I will have my truck back at 10:30 AM tomorrow.

It will NOT have AFM/DOD (physically removed)
It has a new cam
It has new LS7 lifters
It has a valve job
It has the heads resurfaced
It has a Diablo Predator tune
It has a 12mo/12k mile warranty

[ptindall]

I will have my truck back at 10:30 AM tomorrow.

It will NOT have AFM/DOD (physically removed)
It has a new cam
It has new LS7 lifters
It has a valve job
It has the heads resurfaced
It has a Diablo Predator tune
It has a 12mo/12k mile warranty

Sounds good. :cert:

[Stangkiller]

I will have my truck back at 10:30 AM tomorrow.

It will NOT have AFM/DOD (physically removed)
It has a new cam
It has new LS7 lifters
It has a valve job
It has the heads resurfaced
It has a Diablo Predator tune
It has a 12mo/12k mile warranty

About time...congrats!

[sublime1996525]

Sounds good. :cert:

Run!!!!

[Moond0ggie]

Provide us with a performance increase update :seasix:

[Bill]

Bored .30 over and stroked? Supercharger or turbo? I would have been tempted to go nuts with it since I was already in for an engine rebuild.

[Aerovette]

Provide us with a performance increase update :seasix:

I expect there won't be any. It will be stock aside from that stupid AFM shit. The tuner they used has three canned tunes. 12hp, 18hp, and something in between. Nothing to brag about. After I get past the warranty period, I'll adjust the top end. 98 is the limit. I'll stretch it to 105. The driveshafts don't like top end, but I'm tired of trying to catch someone and not be able to. Just have to wait 12,000 miles.

[Aerovette]

.

[The_Dude]

ouch