Epoxy filling

[Yadkin]

Before I do my first project I'm going to 'spearmint a bit on a chunk of wood that I cut a random hole in it.

[Yadkin]

The manufacturer requires 75F for the pour plus three days. That's going to be a challenge here in the winter. So I have to first figure out if I can do it.

Here's my setup. Basement bedroom that tends to be warm anyway. I have a portable propane heater turned on low. Increase the temp 15 degrees in about that many minutes.

[Yadkin]

Here's the piece that I am planning to fill, with the largest defect in the center.

[LATB]

Are you planning to stain or poly/wax the piece?

[Torqaholic]

Strange looking garage.

[Bill]

I always used Colgate toothpaste to fill holes in walls so I could get my security deposit back. Not sure that would be applicable here, though.

[Yadkin]

Are you planning to stain or poly/wax the piece?

Once I fill the defects, cut the hardened epoxy back with 60 grit sanding on a random orbital, then progress finer to 1500, then polish. For the wood I'll sand back down to 120 grit, then use Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C.

[Yadkin]

I always used Colgate toothpaste to fill holes in walls so I could get my security deposit back. Not sure that would be applicable here, though. Did that in college. I hung my bed on the concrete block walls with lag bolts and soft metal shields. :seasix:

[Big bob]

Your problem will be air bubbles. Using some type of syringe to turkey baster can help. Also be ready in case you get a hot mix with a way of getting it out of the house safely. :seasix:

[Yadkin]

If y'all may recall, I scarfed this piece out of MIL's barn. Here's what it looked like wet, after I hosed 1/4" of dust off of it. With a clear finish, it should look about this dark.

[Yadkin]

Your problem will be air bubbles. Using some type of syringe to turkey baster can help. Also be ready in case you get a hot mix with a way of getting it out of the house safely. :seasix:

Manufacture recommends applying in thin layers then using a heat gun to remove air bubbles.

My 'spearmint will determine how thick I can pour the layers.

[Big bob]

Best way I found was fill from the bottom pushing the air up in a single pour then you don't need the heat much. Because heat also cures it faster.:seasix:

[dvarapala]

Before I do my first project I'm going to 'spearmint a bit on a chunk of wood that I cut a random hole in it.

You're going to plug the hole with a wad of Doublemint gum? :shrug:

[Big bob]

He is partial to soup cans.:rofl:

[Yadkin]

He is partial to soup cans.:rofl:

And swinging hot tubs full of bent over drunk women. :groupwave:

[Yadkin]

Keeping the room above 75F isn't going to work unless I use a smaller heater. It gets way too hot with the burner on low, then cools down with two hours.

Since I don't want to buy a big electric I'm thinking of making a hot box around the piece and using a heat gun on low as my heat source. :popcorns:

[Big bob]

What the hell are you using that it has to be 75 degrees?

OK did some reading and seems that is what some recommend. I always used west system for what I did and never had that issue. :seasix:

With your new idea you won't have to worry about your unsupported hot tub when you burn your house down. :sadangel:

[MadInNc]

After I learned and educated myself on the bar top with lava river valley 3” deep, with top coat pour of 1/4”.
72837 72838


Process/Steps I used was first; is make sure the back of the void is sealed. I’d caulk a backer board on back side and make sure not even a hair line crack is open as it will leak.

2nd; Find a “deep pour” 50/50 epoxy mix.
3rd; Stir for three minutes, pour and let settle then
4th use a propane torch to bring out the bubbles. It’s cool as when ya have done it you’re left with a glass appearance.

No need to add heat, reaction of the epoxy setting up throws off enough heat

Drying time ~2 days. Let it cure ~ 3 weeks before final polish.

Have ya thought of top coating the whole piece w epoxy? Also easy.

[Big bob]

That is purdy!:seasix:

Another thought for yaddy put your heating pad in your box. :rofl:

[TheHammer]

The manufacturer requires 75F for the pour plus three days. That's going to be a challenge here in the winter. So I have to first figure out if I can do it.

Here's my setup. Basement bedroom that tends to be warm anyway. I have a portable propane heater turned on low. Increase the temp 15 degrees in about that many minutes.

spank room?

[Egnalf]

Did that in college. I hung my bed on the concrete block walls with lag bolts and soft metal shields. :seasix:

to sleep, did you hang from the headboard like a bat?

[ZipZap]

Torpedo heater in a closed room? Might want to crack a window:D

[Tikiman]

Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I have a basement full of slabs like that. Mostly black walnut and cherry. All 2+ inches thick. No idea what I am going to do with them.

[MadInNc]

Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I have a basement full of slabs like that. Mostly black walnut and cherry. All 2+ inches thick. No idea what I am going to do with them.

Where were you last year when I needed some stock:D

Seriously, make some tables, first one is going for over $20k

[Tikiman]

Where were you last year when I needed some stock:D

Seriously, make some tables, first one is going for over $20k


That third one. Is that Bubinga?

[MadInNc]

That third one. Is that Bubinga?

No idea, bubinga is more red though

[Yadkin]

After I learned and educated myself on the bar top with lava river valley 3” deep, with top coat pour of 1/4”.
72837 72838


Process/Steps I used was first; is make sure the back of the void is sealed. I’d caulk a backer board on back side and make sure not even a hair line crack is open as it will leak.

2nd; Find a “deep pour” 50/50 epoxy mix.
3rd; Stir for three minutes, pour and let settle then
4th use a propane torch to bring out the bubbles. It’s cool as when ya have done it you’re left with a glass appearance.

No need to add heat, reaction of the epoxy setting up throws off enough heat

Drying time ~2 days. Let it cure ~ 3 weeks before final polish.

Have ya thought of top coating the whole piece w epoxy? Also easy.

Nice work. No go on the epoxy coating for the remainder, per orders of my Better Half. Not "the thing" for this room.

[Yadkin]

spank room?

:Jeff '79: Not anymore.

When the kids were younger we set it up with three bunk beds for ski weekends. Over the years we reduced the bunks from six, to three, then one. The current sleigh bed was my daughter's growing up, soon to be my MIL's apartment.

[Yadkin]

to sleep, did you hang from the headboard like a bat? Placed in the corner with three bolts, and a 2x4 for the 4th corner. :seasix:

[Yadkin]

That's where his wife lets's him ....:

Wha the fah....

:Jeff '79:

[Big bob]

Good to hear your wife has some common sense. :seasix: Now get her up on a ladder so she can get a good look at your hot tub suspension system. :bslap:

[Yadkin]

Torpedo heater in a closed room? Might want to crack a window:D

That's one concern. The other is just way too much heat. Instead I'm going for the hot box with two, or four of these little beauties.

[GTOguy]

My late dad picked this up in Northern CA about 50 years ago from a hippie burl cutter/artist. Just finished in linseed oil on the top, nothing else. Old Redwood from a deadfall. I like rustic stuff like this better with a natural oil finish. Just like on a gunstock on an antique gun. Or single stage paint on a vintage car. It just looks 'right', IMO. 72872

[Egnalf]

Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I have a basement full of slabs like that. Mostly black walnut and cherry. All 2+ inches thick. No idea what I am going to do with them.

i happen to really like both species. let me know when throwing them out, ill trash pick...

[ZipZap]

That's one concern. The other is just way too much heat. Instead I'm going for the hot box with two, or four of these little beauties.

20 bux on Amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Thermostat-Electric-Portable-Protection/dp/B0BG4533TG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=S5ZRMZWB8O0R&keywords=ceramic%2Bheater&qid=1670196474&sprefix=ceramic%2Bheater%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-1&th=1

[Yadkin]

My hot box:

[Yadkin]

Added a small heating pad (on high) to the two pairs of boot heaters. Some old blankets on top and after a day or so the heat equalized at 86F. Knowing this, I can set the heating pad on medium or low and still easily maintain the 75F that I need.

I can use the propane to heat the room while I'm working the the hot box to maintain it for the three days required to cure. :seasix:

[GTOguy]

:waiting::waiting:

[LATB]

Watching Yellowstone last night and there was a table like those in post #25 in that episode. Last of S2 or 1st of S3. It must be a thing with the very wealthy.

[MadInNc]

Added a small heating pad (on high) to the two pairs of boot heaters. Some old blankets on top and after a day or so the heat equalized at 86F. Knowing this, I can set the heating pad on medium or low and still easily maintain the 75F that I need.

I can use the propane to heat the room while I'm working the the hot box to maintain it for the three days required to cure. :seasix:

Careful, when ya mix the two parts and pour, torch bubbles out and it starts curing, the temp will rise quickly to over 100f for an hour before curing. After ya pour wait a few hours before firing up the hot box

[Yadkin]

Watching Yellowstone last night and there was a table like those in post #25 in that episode. Last of S2 or 1st of S3. It must be a thing with the very wealthy.

There's a guy on youtube that videos how he makes river tables. He started off charging under $1000, and gradually started increasing his prices, now ten or twenty grand, and has more business than he can handle.

[Yadkin]

Did the pour today, one at 11am and the second to fill it at 5pm.

[dvarapala]

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=73260&d=1670800058

Looks like your dog has diarrhea...

[Yadkin]

:Jeff '79:

[GTOguy]

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=73260&d=1670800058

Looks like you have diarrhea...

Fixt!:)

[Aerovette]

Cool. A Taco Bell tribute table.

[Big bob]

And eating a stripper.:leaving:

[Yadkin]

So after that cures, I'm thinking 40 grit?

[Yadkin]

Here's where I'm at. My 'spearmints showed that after I raise the temperature, I can keep the room at 75F with my little electric ceramic heater.

After about an hour sanding with 40 grit to level. I have some low spots to fill with another layer of epoxy then more sanding.

[DAB]

not a fan of the 'river/epoxy' tables. :DAB:

[GTOguy]

Yadkin, that is looking totally acceptable in my opinion. Nice work.

[MadInNc]

Here's where I'm at. My 'spearmints showed that after I raise the temperature, I can keep the room at 75F with my little electric ceramic heater.

After about an hour sanding with 40 grit to level. I have some low spots to fill with another layer of epoxy then more sanding.

Why not finish sanding, stain wood to color, the pour a 1/4 coat of top pour epoxy. On edge use blue tape.

[Yadkin]

Why not finish sanding, stain wood to color, the pour a 1/4 coat of top pour epoxy. On edge use blue tape.

Baby Doll wants a natural looking finish on the wood. After I fill the defects I'll use Rubio.

URL="https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/"

[GTOguy]

Baby Doll probably has better taste in aesthetics than you do. :)

[Yadkin]

That doesn't explain what she's doing with me. :Jeff '79:

[MadInNc]

Baby Doll wants a natural looking finish on the wood. After I fill the defects I'll use Rubio.

URL="https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/"

The Elm I had I used a clear stain/sealer as I encapsulated it w epoxy flood coat.

Can ya find somebody w a 24” or 30” planner to take dips out? <— solves all issues!

Epoxy as a filler not recommended as once applied, even sanded the stain Rubio Mono Coat won’t be able to attach to the wood for needed capillary effect w color.

Where epoxy is on bare wood, it owns it, forever

All lessons learned :yesnod:

[Big bob]

But he did it hiiiiiissss waayyy.:rofl:

[Yadkin]

The Elm I had I used a clear stain/sealer as I encapsulated it w epoxy flood coat.

Can ya find somebody w a 24” or 30” planner to take dips out? <— solves all issues!

Epoxy as a filler not recommended as once applied, even sanded the stain Rubio Mono Coat won’t be able to attach to the wood for needed capillary effect w color.

Where epoxy is on bare wood, it owns it, forever

All lessons learned :yesnod:

I'm hoping that my aggressive sanding, and hour with 40 grit, took all the epoxy out of the grain. When I washed the piece after it gave a uniform color. :seasix:

[Yadkin]

But he did it hiiiiiissss waayyy.:rofl:

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=72437&d=1669070637

[Big bob]

Yep smells like you need a bath.:lmfao::karen:

[Yadkin]

You posted it. :Jeff '79:

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2014871&postcount=42

[Yadkin]

The Elm I had I used a clear stain/sealer as I encapsulated it w epoxy flood coat.

Can ya find somebody w a 24” or 30” planner to take dips out? <— solves all issues!


A client of mine owns a lumber yard and has the biggest plane that I've ever seen, but it's only 14" wide, and this piece is 18". If I knew of someone with a machine like that I'd take it there.

I have it flat along the narrow dimension; along the long about a 3/16" dip in the center. Not really noticeable in that 5' dimension.

[Yadkin]

@madinnc

Here's the recipe that I'm following. Note at time stamp 10 seconds how he has most, not all, of the bare wood coated with flooded epoxy.

How To Finish an Epoxy + Wood Table (For Beginners + Pro's) - YouTube

[MadInNc]

Since your piece is not square and irregular, use blue tape with 1” sticky and overlap with another piece so when ya apply it to edge you built a dam to hold back epoxy AFTER ya epoxy the edge. Blue tape must stick or ya have a gallon of epoxy moving in w ya on floor, forever.

Once damn is there find a top coat calculator to figure out how much ya need which I need dimensions to plug in.


For a table 40 x 20 w 1/8 pour, damn edged you’ll need a 1/2 gallon +

Here’s a link for calculator

https://incrediblesolutionsonline.com/epoxy-calculator/

Regarding epoxy lots of choice and all different $. If indoor ya don’t need UV and I’d buy from a epoxy specialty shop vs Amazon

I’ll dig up who I used tomorrow and send to ya.

[Big bob]

I always used West System.

[Yadkin]

Since your piece is not square and irregular, use blue tape with 1” sticky and overlap with another piece so when ya apply it to edge you built a dam to hold back epoxy AFTER ya epoxy the edge. Blue tape must stick or ya have a gallon of epoxy moving in w ya on floor, forever.

Once damn is there find a top coat calculator to figure out how much ya need which I need dimensions to plug in.


For a table 40 x 20 w 1/8 pour, damn edged you’ll need a 1/2 gallon +

Here’s a link for calculator

https://incrediblesolutionsonline.com/epoxy-calculator/

Regarding epoxy lots of choice and all different $. If indoor ya don’t need UV and I’d buy from a epoxy specialty shop vs Amazon

I’ll dig up who I used tomorrow and send to ya.

Edges are done. All I'm doing now is filling up a few small gaps, then sanding and finishing.

I get your point about epoxy on plain wood. Even after aggressive sanding, removed about 1/16", I can still see its effect on dry wood, although doesn't show up when wetting with water. The video guy cut with a CNC. I'm not sure if I should do a skim coat with epoxy to get it all the same before I do the Rubio.

[Big bob]

Edges are done. All I'm doing now is filling up a few small gaps, then sanding and finishing.

I get your point about epoxy on plain wood. Even after aggressive sanding, removed about 1/16", I can still see its effect on dry wood, although doesn't show up when wetting with water. The video guy cut with a CNC. I'm not sure if I should do a skim coat with epoxy to get it all the same before I do the Rubio.


Rubio on top of epoxy :confused5:

Damn I actually learned something new.:seasix:

[Yadkin]

I'm shocked that you'd admit that. :seasix:

[Big bob]

I'm shocked that you'd admit that. :seasix:


Why just because you can't? :rofl:

[MadInNc]

Edges are done. All I'm doing now is filling up a few small gaps, then sanding and finishing.

I get your point about epoxy on plain wood. Even after aggressive sanding, removed about 1/16", I can still see its effect on dry wood, although doesn't show up when wetting with water. The video guy cut with a CNC. I'm not sure if I should do a skim coat with epoxy to get it all the same before I do the Rubio.

Rubio on top of epoxy :confused5:

Damn I actually learned something new.:seasix:

W Bob. Stain first w Rubio, then epoxy. Rubio won’t lay well on epoxy - finished or not. Ya want expoxy to be the last coat, like glass encapsulation

[Yadkin]

Why just because you can't? :rofl:

I admit that I'm right. :Jeff '79:

[Big bob]

I admit that I'm right. :Jeff '79:



Wrong again :rofl:

Kinda like rubbing bacon grease to make your waxed floor better. :seasix:

[Yadkin]

Wrong again :rofl:

Kinda like rubbing bacon grease to make your waxed floor better. :seasix:

Sounds like something a Big Ape would do. :Jeff '79:

[Yadkin]

I decided to do a skim coat of clear epoxy over the entire top. Then I'll sand staring with 40 grit again, up to 220 before Rubio. Here's what the piece looks like now.

[GTOguy]

Hope you don't have to flip it over and start over on the other side!

[Steve_R]

How can an oil-based finish soak into the wood if it’s sealed with epoxy first?

[Bill]

I am curious why OP didn't just fill the imperfection with the same clear lacquer he applies to the whole piece, so that it is flush? That way, you can see the imperfection. Is that not done for some reason?

[Yadkin]

How can an oil-based finish soak into the wood if it’s sealed with epoxy first?

Maybe I should just use a polyurethane instead. :confused5:

[Yadkin]

I am curious why OP didn't just fill the imperfection with the same clear lacquer he applies to the whole piece, so that it is flush? That way, you can see the imperfection. Is that not done for some reason?
I think you mean epoxy. Lacquer can't be used to fill a 3" deep defect in the wood. I could coat the entire piece withy epoxy, like a bar top, 1/16 to 1/8" thick. It's still an option, but not the look that I was going for.

[Steve_R]

Maybe I should just use a polyurethane instead. :confused5:

I’m not much into woodworking. I did make a table like that years ago by just pouring a layer of epoxy on it. Turned out okay and the kids couldn’t hurt it.

I would think the epoxy seals the grain so any finish that needs to soak in won’t work.

[Yadkin]

I’m not much into woodworking. I did make a table like that years ago by just pouring a layer of epoxy on it. Turned out okay and the kids couldn’t hurt it.

I would think the epoxy seals the grain so any finish that needs to soak in won’t work.

I haven't attempted a piece of furniture since woodworking class in high school. I've refinished plenty, and always used polyurethane.

That video of the river table just doesn't make sense. And it's not the only one that I watched. No info at all on Rubio's website, pdf brochure or detailed instructions. I just chatted with Rubio- they say that it will brighten up the epoxy but won't stick to it. Whateverthe**** that means.

I'm going to go with poly on top of this instead of the Rubio. It's a "known quantity" with me, and can be wet sanded and polished, like paint correction on a car. :seasix:

[GTOguy]

I haven't attempted a piece of furniture since woodworking class in high school. I've refinished plenty, and always used polyurethane.

That video of the river table just doesn't make sense. And it's not the only one that I watched. No info at all on Rubio's website, pdf brochure or detailed instructions. I just chatted with Rubio- they say that it will brighten up the epoxy but won't stick to it. Whateverthe**** that means.

I'm going to go with poly on top of this instead of the Rubio. It's a "known quantity" with me, and can be wet sanded and polished, like paint correction on a car. :seasix:

It means it's like tire dressing. Or pimp juice on Vice Grip Garage...oil rubbed into a bad paint job to give it a very temporary, sticky sheen.


You're not that guy. You are an engineer. You do things the right way or you don't do them. Good luck with your project.

[Big bob]

Wrong again :rofl:

Kinda like rubbing bacon grease to make your waxed floor better. :seasix:

It means it's like tire dressing. Or pimp juice on Vice Grip Garage...oil rubbed into a bad paint job to give it a very temporary, sticky sheen.


You're not that guy. You are an engineer. You do things the right way or you don't do them. Good luck with your project.
73593

73594

[dvarapala]

How can an oil-based finish soak into the wood if it’s sealed with epoxy first?

Are you saying Yadkin painted himself into a corner, so to speak? :lol:

[Yadkin]

Nope. Just switched tactics. Back to old school. :seasix:

[GTOguy]

Are you saying Yadkin painted himself into a corner, so to speak? :lol:

Yet another swing and a miss.

You really need to stop bringing your pocketknife to gunfights. :seasix:

[MadInNc]

I haven't attempted a piece of furniture since woodworking class in high school. I've refinished plenty, and always used polyurethane.

That video of the river table just doesn't make sense. And it's not the only one that I watched. No info at all on Rubio's website, pdf brochure or detailed instructions. I just chatted with Rubio- they say that it will brighten up the epoxy but won't stick to it. Whateverthe**** that means.

I'm going to go with poly on top of this instead of the Rubio. It's a "known quantity" with me, and can be wet sanded and polished, like paint correction on a car. :seasix:

Don’t put epoxy over poly. Weird things happen. Ya don’t want expoxy to bubble off do ya? Every epoxy site no Poly

[Yadkin]

Don’t put epoxy over poly. Weird things happen. Ya don’t want expoxy to bubble off do ya? Every epoxy site no Poly

Poly over epoxy ok, not epoxy over poly.:seasix:

[GTOguy]

Kinda like the lacquer and enamel thing. One way works, the other way destroys the work. I always end up forgetting which is which and end up having to strip the whole thing and start over. We can't all be blessed with StorytellerStealth's good luck.

[Yadkin]

I'm not happy with "almost flat", so I rigged up a redneck 2D CNC machine to re-flatten before I re-sand then apply varnish.

[Big bob]

Epoxy will self level but interesting watching a stick kick your ass.:seasix:

[Yadkin]

Big Bob must be describing some weird thing that apes do to their mates. :Jeff '79:

[LATB]

I'm not happy with "almost flat", so I rigged up a redneck 2D CNC machine to re-flatten before I re-sand then apply varnish.

That'll be interesting to see the outcome.

[GTOguy]

Epoxy will self level but interesting watching a stick kick your ass.:seasix:

This is true. Like paint and water. It will self-level without issues. It's physics.

I've determined that Bob is enough of an ass that I'm missing out too much if I have him on ignore, so I'm letting him back into the Inner Circle. :yesnod:

[Yadkin]

That'll be interesting to see the outcome.

I did the same type of jig (another non-woke word) to make a wood dash for my Fiat Spider project. That was a compound curve, so the steel angle gets substituted for wood rails (long concave curve), and the sled made of a short convex curve. Same router. I don't have a picture readily available but it turned out awesome.

[Yadkin]

This is true. Like paint and water. It will self-level without issues. It's physics.

I've determined that Bob is enough of an ass that I'm missing out too much if I have him on ignore, so I'm letting him back into the Inner Circle. :yesnod:

Careful. Bob is likely to get the wrong impression about your use of that term, and want to bend you over and thrust hard enough to cause a well-engineered structure to swing. :yesnod:

[Yadkin]

Here's the Fiat dash prior to finishing with about ten coats of spray-on polyurethane.

[Big bob]

There you go again talking out your ass again. If you would have done as Mad said then once it cured put your varnish over the epoxy would have given a beautiful depth to your finish with a flat surface. Your sled will work as well but you will spend a lot more time playing with your wood.:karen::joebuck:

[GTOguy]

Here's the Fiat dash prior to finishing with about ten coats of spray-on polyurethane.

That's first rate work, IMO. Better than factory.

[MadInNc]

I'm not happy with "almost flat", so I rigged up a redneck 2D CNC machine to re-flatten before I re-sand then apply varnish.

Cool, I figure ya would find those jigs or how to. I looked at one for bar top but the time, effort and dimensions to be built on the bar would have taken more time for me than sanding for days:rofl:

[Yadkin]

Jig work. Had to reconfigure the sled. Then took three passes. Best to work right-to-left to keep the dust off the next pass of the sled.

Then a final pass with a partial sled to remove bits on the far edges of tyhe widest part.

Follow up with 40 grit to remove the lines, then water pop. :seasix:

[Yadkin]

There you go again talking out your ass again. If you would have done as Mad said then once it cured put your varnish over the epoxy would have given a beautiful depth to your finish with a flat surface. Your sled will work as well but you will spend a lot more time playing with your wood.:karen::joebuck:

Looking forward to seeing your next DIY project, step by step, Big Bobkaren. :Jeff '79:

[MadInNc]

Jig work. Had to reconfigure the sled. Then took three passes. Best to work right-to-left to keep the dust off the next pass of the sled.

Then a final pass with a partial sled to remove bits on the far edges of tyhe widest part.

Follow up with 40 grit to remove the lines, then water pop. :seasix:

Looks good and easy on the water Hoss. More sanding till ya get the grain the way it’s exposed that ya want -> and top coat :cool:

[Yadkin]

Here's the Fiat dash prior to finishing with about ten coats of spray-on polyurethane.
And here it is completed and installed.

[Big bob]

Jig work. Had to reconfigure the sled. Then took three passes. Best to work right-to-left to keep the dust off the next pass of the sled.

Then a final pass with a partial sled to remove bits on the far edges of tyhe widest part.

Follow up with 40 grit to remove the lines, then water pop. :seasix:


The new sled was needed the first one was to thick great job always thinking.:seasix:

Has the wife found what you cannibalize to make the new sled yet? Looks like it might have been part of a bunk bed. :seasix:

Great job on the dashboard I really like it.:seasix::cert:

[LATB]

Look at Bob being complementary to Yadkin.

It’s a Christmas miracle. :rofl:

[Steve_R]

Look at Bob being complementary to Yadkin.

It’s a Christmas miracle. :rofl:

He’s either drunk or had a brain aneurysm. I predict he’s back to being an asshole in no time.

[Big bob]

I give credit where credit is due.:cert: But that hot tub is still a accident waiting to happen. :leaving:

[Big bob]

He’s either drunk or had a brain aneurysm. I predict he’s back to being an asshole in no time.


Now what the **** are you babbling about? :slap:

[LATB]

He’s either drunk or had a brain aneurysm. I predict he’s back to being an asshole in no time.

Appears the time is 7 minutes. :rofl:

[Steve_R]

Appears the time is 7 minutes. :rofl:

It was an easy prediction to make. :D

[Big bob]

It was an easy prediction to make. :D



Especially when you asked for it.:rofl:

[Yadkin]

The sled was a 1x3 oak board from Lowes. Road on 2x2 steel angles, also from Lowes.

When I did the dash, I used cheaper poplar for the sled and rails. Didn't need to be as rigid as for the table because it was so narrow.

Here's the back of the dash. Glued on (epoxy) an aluminum plate to reinforce the area around the big gages so it wouldn't split. First picture is the original wiring with just the wood portion of the dash. Second is after I rebuilt the wiring and inserted into the reproduction foam plastic dash.

Third picture is an original dash (mine was in bad shape). That was made out of wood fibers pressed into a mold, and the wood portion was three sections of thin plywood.

[Yadkin]

I give credit where credit is due.:cert: But that hot tub is still a accident waiting to happen. :leaving:

Still waiting for your engineering expertise to explain how the final assembly isn't stable. :sleep:

[GTOguy]

I want Yadkin to work on my car. At least the dash work. He's waaaaay more patient than I.

[Tikiman]

Jig work. Had to reconfigure the sled. Then took three passes. Best to work right-to-left to keep the dust off the next pass of the sled.

Then a final pass with a partial sled to remove bits on the far edges of tyhe widest part.

Follow up with 40 grit to remove the lines, then water pop. :seasix:


What did you use for the router bit? When I did this, I used a 1-1/4" bowl bit.

[Big bob]

Still waiting for your engineering expertise to explain how the final assembly isn't stable. :sleep:


I must have missed it. Please repost the pics and specs of the filled hot tub suspended with a handful of screws and soup cans.:waiting:


I already put that to bed in your other thread.:sadangel:

[Yadkin]

What did you use for the router bit? When I did this, I used a 1-1/4" bowl bit.

The biggest flat that I have, 1".

[Yadkin]

I want Yadkin to work on my car. At least the dash work. He's waaaaay more patient than I.

You can't afford me. Heck if I was charging by the hour, I couldn't afford me either. :Jeff '79:

[Tikiman]

You can't afford me. Heck if I was charging by the hour, I couldn't afford me either. :Jeff '79:

That's usually the way it goes.

[Yadkin]

I must have missed it. Please repost the pics and specs of the filled hot tub suspended with a handful of screws and soup cans.:waiting:

I've reposted pics of the final assembly several times when axing you to explain your "swing" theory. The "soup cans" are 14 gage rated over 2000# floor load. There are eight of them. The fully loaded spa weighs just under 6000#.

Do the math and get back to me. :Jeff '79:

[MadInNc]

So Yaddy, I’m trying to figure out how to beat attack a table like this…..

Hmmmmm. Time to make some calls to a few Sawyers

[Big bob]

And I told you that if you find a builder that would put over 3 tons with their wife on that engineering monstrosity playing around in a hot tub I would apologize. :popcorns:

Unless of course that is your plan seeing as how your wife has asked you to bring home someone that knew how to satisfy a woman. :rofl:


73775

[Yadkin]

Big Bob is desperately trying to change the subject. Builders pay me to develop structural plans, dummy, not the other way around.:Jeff '79:

[GTOguy]

Big Bob is desperately trying to change the subject. Builders pay me to develop structural plans, dummy, not the other way around.:Jeff '79:

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::dance::lol:

:waiting:


You sure showed Big Bob!

I'm beginning to wonder if StorytellerStealth and Big Bob are the same person?

Big Bob seems to be almost as smart, and can certainly take a beating. :seasix:

[Big bob]

73790



You sure as hell not going to get an engineer to sign off on that. But if you do same deal.:leaving:

[Yadkin]

Someone who calls 14 gage joist hangers "soup cans" and can't explain his theory, yet insists it correct, I cannot consider "smart". :Jeff '79:

[Yadkin]

73790



You sure as hell not going to get an engineer to sign off on that. But if you do same deal.:leaving:

An engineer can't "sign off" on anything that he didn't design himself, or designed by someone under his responsible charge.

Once again, Big Bob proves his ignorance. :Jeff '79:

[GTOguy]

B-B-Big Bob's not smart?
:sad:

[Big bob]

An engineer can't "sign off" on anything that he didn't design himself, or designed by someone under his responsible charge.

Once again, Big Bob proves his ignorance. :Jeff '79:


I am sorry I did not know you and other forum members were under contract. :funniest::funniest::funniest::funniest:


If you can't get anyone to back you except your leg humper just give it up.:sadangel:

[GTOguy]

I am sorry I did not know you and other forum members were under contract. :funniest::funniest::funniest::funniest:

Well, now you do. :yesnod:

[Yadkin]

I am sorry I did not know you and other forum members were under contract. :funniest::funniest::funniest::funniest:


If you can't get anyone to back you except your leg humper just give it up.:sadangel:

Another desperate attempt to change the subject.:Jeff '79:

[GTOguy]

Another desperate attempt to change the subject.:Jeff '79:

I think we can all agree that the subject here is Bob's idiocy. :seasix:

[Yadkin]

I think we can all agree that the subject here is Bob's idiocy. :seasix:

That, and his pride. Too stubborn to admit he's wrong-o. :Jeff '79:

[GTOguy]

Well, at least he's very tall. He can hover over people. There's that.

[Yadkin]

Well, at least he's very tall. He can hover over people. There's that.

Here he's just a tiny little wimp. :Jeff '79:

[LATB]

I am sorry I did not know you and other forum members were under contract. :funniest::funniest::funniest::funniest:


If you can't get anyone to back you except your leg humper just give it up.:sadangel:

As I’ve posted, I would have done it differently. Either had tabs welded to the ends of the steel for mounting to the wood beam. Or bolted a steel angle to the wood beam to act as a ledger for the steel beams to rest on.

In a perfect world I always prefer to stack load bearing framing instead of hanging. But often there are circumstances that won’t allow that.

I’m certain that Yadkin did the calculations and being an engineer and numbers guy, one has to assume his approach is more than structurally sufficient.

[Big bob]

I am not one to assume things I go by what I can see. I saw all the wood that was damaged. The cross beam that supported those is hidden with a new piece attached some how. Not sure how you would calculate the structural load on a stick attached to questionable timber construction. Still waiting for someone to vouch for the structural integrity as it is.:leaving:


As my Dad always said figures don't lie but sometimes liars figure. :rofl:

[Yadkin]

I am not one to assume things I go by what I can see. I saw all the wood that was damaged. The cross beam that supported those was hidden with a new piece attached some how to it. Not sure how you would calculate the structural load on a stick attached to questionable timber construction. Still waiting for someone to vouch for the structural integrity as it is.:leaving:


As my Dad always said figures don't lie but sometimes liars figure. :rofl:

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2027860&postcount=226

Complete annihilation. :Jeff '79:

[Yadkin]

As I’ve posted, I would have done it differently. Either had tabs welded to the ends of the steel for mounting to the wood beam. Or bolted a steel angle to the wood beam to act as a ledger for the steel beams to rest on.

In a perfect world I always prefer to stack load bearing framing instead of hanging. But often there are circumstances that won’t allow that.

I’m certain that Yadkin did the calculations and being an engineer and numbers guy, one has to assume his approach is more than structurally sufficient.


Factor of safety = 6.4. :seasix:

[GTOguy]

As I’ve posted, I would have done it differently. Either had tabs welded to the ends of the steel for mounting to the wood beam. Or bolted a steel angle to the wood beam to act as a ledger for the steel beams to rest on.

In a perfect world I always prefer to stack load bearing framing instead of hanging. But often there are circumstances that won’t allow that.

I’m certain that Yadkin did the calculations and being an engineer and numbers guy, one has to assume his approach is more than structurally sufficient.
:iagree: I would have constructed a ledger to support the beams. But I'm just an old mechanic, not an engineer or pro carpenter.
I trust Yadkin's approach going on the math and his decades of experience.
In spite of that one, butt-hurt tall guy.

[Big bob]

:iagree: I would have constructed a ledger to support the beams. But I'm just an old mechanic, not an engineer or pro carpenter.
I trust Yadkin's approach going on the math and his decades of experience.
In spite of that one, butt-hurt tall guy.


He is happy with it so that is all that really matters.

73826

[GTOguy]

He is happy with it so that is all that really matters.

73826

And I am happy with you. Merry Christmas, Big Bob.:cert:

[Big bob]

And a Merry Christmas to all.:seasix:

[LATB]

:iagree: I would have constructed a ledger to support the beams. But I'm just an old mechanic, not an engineer or pro carpenter.
I trust Yadkin's approach going on the math and his decades of experience.
In spite of that one, butt-hurt tall guy.

I have found,
Carpenters, tradesmen, mechanics, who take pride in their work and enjoy the work…
Generally over “engineer” everything. Usually from past experiences or exposure to engineering. And always error on the upside/upsize.

Chit builders and hack mechanics, are motivated only by time and money.

Engineers usually fall in the middle. Plenty enough to get the job done (always room for safety) but without overkill. And always superior to hacks.

[Steve_R]

He is happy with it so that is all that really matters.

73826

I’m sure Yadkin is relieved that you’re good with something you’ll never use.

[Yadkin]

:iagree: I would have constructed a ledger to support the beams. But I'm just an old mechanic, not an engineer or pro carpenter.
I trust Yadkin's approach going on the math and his decades of experience.
In spite of that one, butt-hurt tall guy.

A ledger on the bottom of a wood beam puts the load on the bottom fibers. Those fibers are under tension so attaching to them is like pulling down on a rope stretched between two posts- just a small vertical load puts a large amount of tension on the rope. Also, slicing through the fibers with a nail, a screw or even a pre-drilled hole weakens the beam. It's always better to fasten near the top where the fibers are in compression. :yesnod:

[Yadkin]

He is happy with it so that is all that really matters.

73826

What matters to me is that I have complexly destroyed your position. :Jeff '79:

[Big bob]

What matters to me is that I have complexly destroyed your position. :Jeff '79:

You're a legend in your own mind.:rofl: My position has not changed I would never put myself or my loved ones in that position unlike you.:slap:

Enjoy your blissful ignorance and Merry Christmas. :seasix:

[GTOguy]

You're a legend in your own mind.:rofl: My position has not changed I would never put myself or my loved ones in that position unlike you.:slap:

Enjoy your blissful ignorance and Merry Christmas. :seasix:

Rest assured Yaddie is a legend in MANY minds. And you, Sir, are far from it.

[Big bob]

I’m sure Yadkin is relieved that you’re good with something you’ll never use.


You need to work on your reading skills. :kick:

[GTOguy]

Am I the only one who wishes we were all sitting back by a roaring fireplace day-drinking and eating Hors d'oeuvres while talking shit to each other across the room this Christmas Eve's Day?

[Steve_R]

Am I the only one who wishes we were all sitting back by a roaring fireplace day-drinking and eating Hors d'oeuvres while talking shit to each other across the room this Christmas Eve's Day?

Fireplace is going here and I have a nice glass of Scotch next to me. :seasix:

[Big bob]

Hell no I think that would be great fun. :seasix:

Fire going here with a big bag of pistachios. :seasix:

Watching deer and turkey. :seasix:

[LATB]

Am I the only one who wishes we were all sitting back by a roaring fireplace day-drinking and eating Hors d'oeuvres while talking shit to each other across the room this Christmas Eve's Day?

D’oeuvering hors sounds like fun.

[Yadkin]

You're a legend in your own mind.:rofl: My position has not changed I would never put myself or my loved ones in that position unlike you.:slap:

Enjoy your blissful ignorance and Merry Christmas. :seasix:

Total irony here. :Jeff '79:

[Yadkin]

Am I the only one who wishes we were all sitting back by a roaring fireplace day-drinking and eating Hors d'oeuvres while talking shit to each other across the room this Christmas Eve's Day?

Yes. :seasix:

[Yadkin]

Fireplace is going here and I have a nice glass of Scotch next to me. :seasix:

I am enjoying this local product:

[Steve_R]

I am enjoying this local product:

Never heard of it. What’s it like?

[Big bob]

Gummed local weeds spit out then fermented. :)

Local made proof that you can sell anything to a idiot. :dance:

[Big bob]

What matters to me is that I have complexly destroyed your position. :Jeff '79:

73833

[Yadkin]

Never heard of it. What’s it like?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fernet&ved=2ahUKEwjn26ySrZP8AhVyl2oFHR2SBkgQmhN6BAgkEAI&usg=AOvVaw3nUO8NKulwAmRVZw83HFzt

A little like Jaeger, but bitter instead of sweet.
:seasix:

[Yadkin]

Got back to it. Interesting that after sitting under a bed for two years, the epoxy raised slightly. So I sanded it back flat, 80 grit. Then stepped up to 220 before applying more coats of varnish.

Working with a brush wasn't working for me. So I went with Minwax spray spar varnish. Three days ago I applied four thin coats within 90 minutes. Tonight I leveled it with 320 grit- took about 45 minutes of sanding.

Here it is after my final sanding, then after washing and drying.

[Yadkin]

Third of four coats tonight, still wet. Baby Doll wants a satin finish, so when it dries it won't look like this mirror.

[dvarapala]

Third of four coats tonight, still wet. Baby Doll wants a satin finish, so when it dries it won't look like this mirror.

That looks awesome. :thumbs:

[GTOguy]

That came out excellent, Mister that’s not my heater.

[Yadkin]

That came out excellent, Mister that’s not my heater.
*heating system

[Frankie the Fink]

Third of four coats tonight, still wet. Baby Doll wants a satin finish, so when it dries it won't look like this mirror.

Gotta say - that's a good looking piece and I wouldn't do satin, its too perfect as is.

I've done some similar projects but stopped; I do NOT know what compels women to put some live plant on a gorgeous piece of furniture then water it until the wood gets a nice fat water stain - it some sort of estrogen compulsion I swear.

[RMVette]

That looks awesome. :thumbs:

:iagree:

[GTOguy]

I wouldn't dull it down, either. Natural oil is what you want for that....entirely different route. Satin poly finishes on a big piece of burl is like bead blasting a gemstone----wrong.

[Newby]

Minwax makes a good satin finish poly to spray.

[Yadkin]

Done.

[MadInNc]

I wood have gone with duck feet

[GTOguy]

Done.

Classy. You have excellent taste in every area except for the people you chat with on car forums.

Very nice, indeed. :Sexy:

[Vince Clortho]

When I remodeled my cottage I got some nice walnut slabs from the local lumber yard for much less than granite or quartz. They had me use fiberglass resin just like you would use for auto body repair. I tinted it black with spray paint of all things. They assured me that it worked great.

I did a couple pours of the resin. In hindsight, I wish had done one more pour but I just ran out time to get it done and match the plumber’s schedule. The lumber yard had a 36” sander so I ran it through there after I glued everything up. Then I sanded with a random orbital sander down to 100 grit. The whole thing is finished on all sides with polyurethane.

It’s held up perfectly for four years now. Someday I will resand to get it all perfect. It’s really hard to see blemishes in the dark wood until you put on the final coat. 115684

115685

115686

115687

115688

115689

115690

115691

[Yadkin]

It’s held up perfectly for four years now. Someday I will resand to get it all perfect. It’s really hard to see blemishes in the dark wood until you put on the final coat.

I suggest sanding a hardwood up to 180 grit before finishing; 320 if refinishing.

The Minwax Spar Polyurethane spray recommends at least three coats within 90 minutes. I did four, 20 minutes between final pass the next coat. Then I waited 72 hours and used an orbital sander using 320 grit to remove any orange peel. Plain water on a micro-fiber towel to wash, then dry with paper towels. The top on this piece took about 45 minutes to sand. Final coats, I did three, since it wasn't laying down as flat as before.

Technically I could sand again staring with 320, then wet-sand to a real small grit, then polish like a car. But, Baby Doll was looking for a satin finish.

[GTOguy]

I said no on the satin finish but it looks better IMO than the super high gloss. You nailed it, IMO.

You're not getting many insults on this thread for being productive and getting great results. I guess that's because Large Tard is MIA. :cert:

[Tikiman]

Gotta say - that's a good looking piece and I wouldn't do satin, its too perfect as is.


Agreed. Leave it gloss.




I've done some similar projects but stopped; I do NOT know what compels women to put some live plant on a gorgeous piece of furniture then water it until the wood gets a nice fat water stain - it some sort of estrogen compulsion I swear.

I believe it has to do with the bone structure of their heads.

[Yadkin]

I said no on the satin finish but it looks better IMO than the super high gloss. You nailed it, IMO.

You're not getting many insults on this thread for being productive and getting great results. I guess that's because Large Tard is MIA. :cert:

Most of the crowd here likes shiny things. Many folk don't appreciate the things that are more important but typically remain hidden, like minimizing joints in plumbing, expansion joints in a boiler vent, the technical elegance of sheet metal beam hangers, R60 roof insulation...

[LATB]

Looks nice.
IMO the live edge look is played out.