Picking up the ‘57 Chevy I’ve always wanted next week

[Sea Six]

I’ve been wanting one for pretty much all my adult life. Now I’ve found the one that is very nearly what I’ve always wanted. It’s missing some simple options that I can always add either now or later.

He’s accepted my contingent offer, contingent on me coming up and inspecting it but as it seems like it will turn out I’m sure I’ll be coming home with the car.

What I’m wondering is $37,000 a good well-maintained number three driver quality car that looks fantastic with a 375 hp crate motor with 34,000 miles a decent price?

I’ve seen several in this general price range and this one’s definitely in better shape and option much closer to what I really want. The only thing that I would do to it is add air conditioning, power steering and swap the non-factory steering wheel over to an original. Other than that it’s ready to drive and enjoy.

Pics to follow shortly

[Sea Six]

Friggin voice to text screwing up my post don’t feel like fixing it right now

[Rikki Z-06]

:popcorns:

[Sea Six]

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=335&pictureid=3199

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=335&pictureid=3201

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=335&pictureid=3202

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=335&pictureid=3203

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=335&pictureid=3208

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=335&pictureid=3207

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=335&pictureid=3204

[MadInNc]

Who cares what the price is… drive it like ya stole it:seasix::datawiz:


…. And

[Rikki Z-06]

Who cares what the price is… drive it like ya stole it:seasix::datawiz:

:withstupid:

[Sea Six]

Everything works according to the seller. I went through a pretty borough checklist on the phone and he confirmed it’s all good working order. I’ll verify but he seems to be an honest type at this point in time. Worth the 7.5 hour trip up there to find out anyhow

[Steve_R]

It's a hardtop so if it's in good shape it's worth that. :seasix:

Get rid of that chrome barefoot gas pedal. :ack:

[Sea Six]

It's a hardtop so if it's in good shape it's worth that. :seasix:

Get rid of that chrome barefoot gas pedal. :ack:

Hell that’s one thing I would’ve added had it been absent. Serious

[snide]

Since they don't make them anymore, they're worth whatever you're willing to pay for it. :thumbs::thumbs:

:cheers:

[Norm]

Very nice! If everything works, no major repairs needed, not saying you got a deal, but from the looks of it, I believe it's worth it.

Congrats Clark, enjoy the hell out of it, it's a looker.:seasix:

[mrvette]

Very nice! If everything works, no major repairs needed, not saying you got a deal, but from the looks of it, I believe it's worth it.

Congrats Clark, enjoy the hell out of it, it's a looker.:seasix:

NICE......maybe want to add power windoze and A/C........

funny how the induction looks just like watt I put on my '72 vette here....

[04 commemorative]

Love it :seasix: but....hate the steering wheel

[Chuck A]

Wow just wow
Very sweet looking, indeed

[Scaleman]

Needs more Bowties. :leaving:

[JRD77VET]

If you're happy with the price, go for it. :seasix:

[zeek]

As most know, 57 Bel Air 2dr hardtops are a very desirable vehicle. While you are obviously not stealing the car, it seems to be a fair price. There are always a few things that some dont like, but can easily be changed. Only thing I didnt like was the red strips at the wheel wells. Biggest thing I would look for is any signs of rust or bondo. 37k is close to top dollar for a modified 57 so any rust should be a deal breaker. Crawl under it with I bright flashlight. Learn to look thru any under coating for signs of rust and floor replacement. Pull up the floor mat in the trunk and look down into the wells for rust.

Beautiful car! Good luck with it!!:seasix:

[Don Rickles]

Time to scratch that itch, if you have the means!

My latest and greatest line is, "You only get so many summers"!!!:cert:

[Grey Ghost]

Looks like a little bubbling at the bottom of the fender? Good place for rust to hide. They make a little non-harmful tool to check for bondo. I agree, floor pans are notorious for rust and very expensive to repair. And they all rust. Fender lips, rockers, drip rails, floor pan, trunk pan all need extra attention on inspection. Mechanical stuff is cheap. Cosmetics and rust repair will turn it into a black hole.

[Torqaholic]

Sharp looking ride.

[MikeB]

:cool1:

[zeek]

Ok...yes...there is most certainly a rust bubble in this pic! Enlarge it and look at the bottom aft quarter panel. Rust coming out....I would have to seriously rethink paying $37 k for a car with ANY rust starting to show. God knows where else it will be hiding....:confused5:

[Rodnok1]

I'd definitely be checking for rust and any repairs that'll bite you later.


Some day I'll get a 57 myself and fix it up...

[Dan47]

Rust sucks but awesome looking otherwise. If it is rust, I’d pass, being as repairing it properly would be really expensive. I think similar, better examples are going to be coming on the market as interest rates rise. I’d wait a little longer, (if it’s rust).

[Sea Six]

Thanks guys. I may have dodged a bullet on this one. I’ll ask for more pics and info.

If anyone is in the area (about thirty minutes north of Atlanta) I’d pay good money for an inspection in person for rust. It would save me a fifteen hour drive round trip.

[Sea Six]

I guess the only way to fix this properly is to replace the driver side front quarter panel. How much would this cost? Is $3000 a panel a good guess?

The panels sell for close to $1000. I don’t know if that includes shipping. By the time you pay a shop to pull the old one, hang the new one, line everything up, paint to match with clear coat, and reinstall all the trim I can see it all adding up very quickly. Plus I’d bet there are more such problem areas than this one.

[Grey Ghost]

I guess the only way to fix this properly is to replace the driver side front quarter panel. How much would this cost? Is $3000 a panel a good guess?

The panels sell for close to $1000. I don’t know if that includes shipping. By the time you pay a shop to pull the old one, hang the new one, line everything up, paint to match with clear coat, and reinstall all the trim I can see it all adding up very quickly. Plus I’d bet there are more such problem areas than this one.

A fender is fairly cheap to replace. They just bolt on. The problem is how honest the seller is with you about rust. They all rust. Period. Floor/trunk pan, rockers, body mounts, bottom of doors, rear quarter panels (require lots of labor and $), etc..

[Dan Dlabay]

Good looking car and if that is what you want go for it. I think the 57 Chevy is one of the best-looking cars ever put out.:seasix:

[Lakota]

My first vehicle was a 55 Chevy 210 2 door sedan in 1964. I like the look of the 55 over the other Tri-Fives 56,57.

Watched the attached Jay Leno video, yesterday, and he mentioned the 57 wasn't a big seller for Chevy in the day. He did mention it is popular today. It got outsold by the 57 Ford. I believe the 55 was Chevy's best seller for a model in history.

1957 Chevrolet 210 - Jay Leno's Garage - YouTube

[Burro (He/Haw)]

If one was interested in something from Chevrolet in the 55-57 era, it’s the 57 ALL day long. The other two do absolutely nothing for me.

[Learpilot]

thats a beauty

[Lakota]

If one was interested in something from Chevrolet in the 55-57 era, it’s the 57 ALL day long. The other two do absolutely nothing for me.

Your lucky, you'll get a better price on a 57 because, "Today, 1955 Chevrolet two door hard tops command top dollar."

"The '55, '56 and '57 Chevrolets are sought after by collectors, enthusiasts and hot rodders[citation needed], and the three model years are often referred to by the given nickname of the "tri-fives." Collectors will pay a premium for two-door models, and even more for the Bel Air version, especially the two-door hardtop (two-door, no side post). Today, 1955 Chevrolet two door hard tops command top dollar."
1955 Chevrolet - Wikipedia

[Lakota]

Found it interesting that re-reading the fantastic book, "Glory Days: When Horsepower and Passion Ruled Detroit
by Jim Wangers"

He mentioned that that the 1955 Chevy was unbeatable and won NASCAR in both 1955 and 1956. The 265 V-8 Chevy had a power pack option that consisted of a four barrel carburetor and dual exhaust.

OHV V8: 265 cubic inches, 162 brake horsepower (SAE)
OHV V8: 265 cubic inches, 180 brake horsepower (SAE), also known as the "Power Pack" engine
OHV V8: 265 cubic inches, 195 brake horsepower (SAE), late in the model year, known as the "Super Power Pack"

67222

[Burro (He/Haw)]

Your lucky, you'll get a better price on a 57 because, "Today, 1955 Chevrolet two door hard tops command top,,,

If I were in the market for such a thing I’d be looking at ‘57 T-Birds. I’m a GM geek but that particular year T-Bird is killer.

[Dan47]

I owned a 56 and like them better than either the 55 or 57. Mine had a 327, muncie 4sp combo. Felt really fast for such a big car, small engine combo.

Besides the beautiful shape of these years, I found working on them to be a joy as the size meant plenty of room. Could damn near pitch a tent under the dash, especially in comparison to a Corvette.

[Aerovette]

Hell that’s one thing I would’ve added had it been absent. Serious

I wouldn't change a single thing.

[sublime1996525]

I guess the only way to fix this properly is to replace the driver side front quarter panel. How much would this cost? Is $3000 a panel a good guess?

The panels sell for close to $1000. I don’t know if that includes shipping. By the time you pay a shop to pull the old one, hang the new one, line everything up, paint to match with clear coat, and reinstall all the trim I can see it all adding up very quickly. Plus I’d bet there are more such problem areas than this one.

I'll be willing to bet that doesn't include shipping but you should be able to get it shipped for $150-$200.

Hopefully you can find someone to look at it for you.

[Sea Six]

OK so here’s the plan. I’m going up on Tuesday with my Dooley and flatbed car carrier to look at the car. I’ve talk to the guy and he says that this is the only spot of rust on the car. He says it’s been there since he bought the car 17 years ago and it is never gotten any larger. He also says he knows the hill history of the car back to the original owner and knows that there is no Bondo anywhere on the car. I’ll see if I can pick up one of those Bondo sensor meters that tells you how thick a layer of Bondo or non-metallic material is and go around the whole car basically everywhere. If the carSeems like it’s as the seller describes it I’m gonna be coming home with that bad boy.

[Sea Six]

I’m going to really go all commando on that car and terret apart looking for any signs of rust. I’ll show the guy my cashiers check for 37K which is the payment method that he wanted but before he gets the check I’m going to tell him that I’m going to lift up carpets trunk mats and basically go over the whole car to make sure there’s no more rust anywhere other than where he says it is. At this point since gray ghost has told me that it’s pretty simple to change our front fenders I’m gonna plan on at least at some point in the future have any replace both of those and hopefully that’ll be the end of it. It’s been garage kept since it was restored in the 80s and I plan on keeping it that way permanently. So maybe I can get a few more yearsOf enjoying it before I even have to do that

[Sea Six]

He says it’s an Edelbrock crate motor 350 in.³ with 375 hp. He has no documentation on that motor. I’m not sure if he put it in or if it was put in by a previous owner. Any ideas on what it is just by looking at the pictures and is there anything I can look for and check real quick before I purchase the car? Looking at current prices that’s a pretty damn pricey motor no idea what it cost when it went in or even how old it is though

Fancy built crate motor or not I’m not really concerned and I’m not buying the vehicle for that fact anyway. So long as it runs well I don’t care if it came out of an old pick up truck and get a fancy dress up kit all I wanna do is drive it around town not gonna race or Dyno it

[Chuck A]

Good luck , keep us posted

[Grey Ghost]

I'm about 1 hr. north of Atl. I'm sure, I know the town where it's located.

You need to look at -

pans - floor and trunk. Top and bottom. And the area where the spare tire was located.

Rockers - inside from under the car and outer

bottoms of doors -

quarter panels - squat down at the back of the panel. Nod your head up/down while looking down the side of the panel for ANY waviness - it should be fairly flat and distortion free. It will have some shape to it. But, look for any distortion or something that just doesn't flow with the shape/contour. Any deformities are a sign of bodywork.

Does it have power steering? brakes? Disc brakes on all corners or drums? Where the fuel and brake lines replaced during resto? Is the gas tank clean of rust? what type radiator is in it? Electronic ignition? Was the wiring harness replaced or are you dealing with 70 year old wiring which is a complete fire hazzard. I would want details on the wiring system. Details on the brake system - has the fluid been changed and kept up? Coolant system?

You are paying a premium and maybe it's worth it if all is true. But, you have a lot of questions that need answered.

[Sea Six]

Grey Ghost, I owe you a tall glass of your favorite beer in an ice cold glass. I hope we get the opportunity to drink a toast some day. I thank you sincerely for the very detailed posts and the texts as I was going over this car.

Worst bondo job I’ve ever seen. Rust on every panel I could check. Trunk pan was filled with about two inches of foam sealant (the reason was for sound deadening and insulation… on the inside of a trunk).

As we had postulated, there was plenty more rust hiding in not so plain sight. Lots of door dings, too. Some of the rust was knocked off to the point where white bondo was showing through. As GG pointed out, in some of the pictures I took and texted him, you could see sanding marks in the amateur bondo job. I couldn’t quite see them in the bright sunlight of the parking lot where I took them, at least not until I got into my truck for the long ride home.

I took a hard pass. Cost me $150 in diesel fuel. My new fiancée and I spent an otherwise enjoyable 14.5 hours just talking and being together on a very scenic drive.

And next time I’ll know to ask to see about a dozen close detail pictures of some known problem areas before committing to a long trip.

Jerry: I’m enjoying some Crown and beer. Cheers.

[Louie Detroit]

Nice to see you leveraging the knowledge and wisdom of VB-OT!

I know at first you appeared hot to trot to buy the car, good to see you went prepared to turn down the deal. :yesnod:

[Sea Six]

Nice to see you leveraging the knowledge and wisdom of VB-OT!

I know at first you appeared hot to trot to buy the car, good to see you went prepared to turn down the deal. :yesnod:

I’ve bought and sold about a dozen or so classic cars. Never a tri-five, hence my questions. It’s always been with Vettes so far. I really needed and benefitted from everyone’s input on this. Definitely appreciated.

[zeek]

Wow....That seller needs his ass kicked! Can you imagine if some one had paid that price and had it shipped to them without putting hands on it first?! People like that seller are the scum of the earth.

So glad you went to get it and look at it up close. There will be others....just remember this experience! Good luck in your search....:seasix:

[Grey Ghost]

:seasix: :cert:

Saved yourself a lot of money doing the inspection in person.

The sheet metal was heavily pitted (not just surface rust) and a badly applied layer of body filler and paint applied over the top of it.

I spent $1500 to fly up and look at a midyear in Wis. one time after having several people tell it had no rust. It was pitiful. They either flat out lied or were stupid.

Hopefully we can get together on your next pass through here. :seasix:

[Bill]

Grey Ghost, I owe you a tall glass of your favorite beer in an ice cold glass. I hope we get the opportunity to drink a toast some day. I thank you sincerely for the very detailed posts and the texts as I was going over this car.

Worst bondo job I’ve ever seen. Rust on every panel I could check. Trunk pan was filled with about two inches of foam sealant (the reason was for sound deadening and insulation… on the inside of a trunk).

As we had postulated, there was plenty more rust hiding in not so plain sight. Lots of door dings, too. Some of the rust was knocked off to the point where white bondo was showing through. As GG pointed out, in some of the pictures I took and texted him, you could see sanding marks in the amateur bondo job. I couldn’t quite see them in the bright sunlight of the parking lot where I took them, at least not until I got into my truck for the long ride home.

I took a hard pass. Cost me $150 in diesel fuel. My new fiancée and I spent an otherwise enjoyable 14.5 hours just talking and being together on a very scenic drive.

And next time I’ll know to ask to see about a dozen close detail pictures of some known problem areas before committing to a long trip.

Jerry: I’m enjoying some Crown and beer. Cheers.

I think you know what the VB expects of you now.

(Preferably after you untie her first, but as always, we don't kink shame here, either way...)

[Sea Six]

I think you know what the VB expects of you now.

(Preferably after you untie her first, but as always, we don't kink shame here, either way...)

I’ve posted pics of her before. Same beautiful, classy smart woman.

[StaticCling]

Barton Family Motors?

[LATB]

Barton Family Motors?

That’s now a church.

[GTOguy]

In the decades I've spent buying old classic cars, I always was amazed at the ability of some people to look you in the eye and flat out lie to you. One guy who lured me many miles from home with the promise of a rust free '66 GTO convertible I balled out to his face. And I was only 22 at the time, he was in his 40's. The car was so rusty it would have broken in half on a lift. I literally poked my index finger through the frame. Have seen rusted frame rails duct-taped over and shot with undercoating. Seriously. And that house-type expanding foam? It chemically reacts to steel and will start it rusting and there is no way to stop it. Saw pics of a '41 Packard that was totaled this way. The foam was sprayed into the A, B. and C pillars, rocker housings, etc. The entire car rotted from the inside out.

[Aerovette]

That’s now a church.

Let us now read from the book of Chevrolet. Verily I say unto thee, change thy oil lest thy rods travel hither and yon. Roll not thine odometer to an earlier time.

[Don Rickles]

Got a quick glimpse of this beautiful beast, in my buddies shop. All done ready for delivery to it’s owner. A spectacular restoration, an all metal body. Paint work to drool over!!!

[GTOguy]

Twin WCFB 4 bbl's. NICE.

[Sea Six]

Dayum

[Grey Ghost]

Tri-Five Nationals are in Bowling Green, this weekend.

Already seeing some spectacular cars on FB

[Sea Six]

Tri-Five Nationals are in Bowling Green, this weekend.

Already seeing some spectacular cars on FB

Yes I’m seeing lots of amazing cars on FB too.

Turns out my car does not have a 57 engine after all. I haven’t gotten around to checking all the numbers but I’ll bet it turns out to be a 283 from 1961. That’s what the other numbers so far are coming in as.

The accelerator pump is toast, and the carb likely needs a rebuild and some repair beyond just a basic rebuild from a serious carb shop. I’m thinking since it’s not the correct engine anyway that I may just get a really nice LS or a moderately built new 350 crate motor. I’ll keep the power glide transmission in there for originality’s sake, since it seems to be shifting just fine.

Any idea what this engine may be worth?

[Sea Six]

…

[Burro (He/Haw)]

Bravo Sea! That thing is beautiful! :yesnod:

[Grey Ghost]

Yes I’m seeing lots of amazing cars on FB too.

Turns out my car does not have a 57 engine after all. I haven’t gotten around to checking all the numbers but I’ll bet it turns out to be a 283 from 1961. That’s what the other numbers so far are coming in as.

The accelerator pump is toast, and the carb likely needs a rebuild and some repair beyond just a basic rebuild from a serious carb shop. I’m thinking since it’s not the correct engine anyway that I may just get a really nice LS or a moderately built new 350 crate motor. I’ll keep the power glide transmission in there for originality’s sake, since it seems to be shifting just fine.

Any idea what this engine may be worth?

LS would be fun. There is a lot to a swap though - driveshaft, fuel system, cooling system, wiring, etc...can be done and maybe easy these days. But, there is more to it than the cost of the motor alone. There is also a reconfig available to add an overdrive gear to the PG.

If you decide to go either way. Try to sell the engine while it's in the car or take lots of date stamped video. Buyers ALWAYS want to hear and know the engine didn't have major troubles that resulted in the swap.

You could also just buy a new carb. vs rebuild. A TRUE rebuild is more involved than gaskets, jets, float, etc...they are check for war-page, shaft holes bored or honed, butterfly fit, etc...they just go bad due to heat cycles over the years.

Price? Dunno...if it has some rare parts on it could add more value. You need to check the heads, exhaust manifold, etc...if any original pieces got transferred over to it they could be worth some decent $$$ sold separately. Even that carb. bad or not. Also, what it originally came out of? Ballpark for a generic one? $2k -3k?

[Sea Six]

I think that in without being able to speak to the previous owner or his spouse will never know exactly where that car engine came from. I’m not the one that’s going to be doing the work so I’m not really concerned about all the extra stuff that goes along with putting an LS three in that car. As long as the shop that I choose has the experience and tools and know-how to get it done I’m OK with putting in an LS three. Probably $10,000 to $15,000? Does that sound about right?

[Grey Ghost]

I think that in without being able to speak to the previous owner or his spouse will never know exactly where that car engine came from. I’m not the one that’s going to be doing the work so I’m not really concerned about all the extra stuff that goes along with putting an LS three in that car. As long as the shop that I choose has the experience and tools and know-how to get it done I’m OK with putting in an LS three. Probably $10,000 to $15,000? Does that sound about right?

I would think so.

You should go to the Nationals.

[Grey Ghost]

Sea Six

This car has moved to my town and for sale again on FB MP.

I asked the seller about rust. "No rust". LOL

Priced at $40k

[Sea Six]

Ask him about house expanding foam in the trunk

[Sea Six]

Yep. With those bow ties all over the place, it couldn’t be any other car!