I am the GRIM REAPER

[Aerovette]

...of vehicles.

My truck is in the shop and has been for weeks.

I've been using my dad's truck and coming home after a work event last night, it shut off at a light and would not restart. By the time the wrecker was done, it was 2:17 AM and I managed 3 and 1/2 hours of sleep.

I'm dyin' ovuh heeya.

Don't know what's wrong yet, but I've put two of our three cars in the shop in one month.

[DJ_Critterus]

Fuel Pump go out?

[Aerovette]

Fuel Pump go out?

That' is an amazing guess and a possibility.

This engine has only 3500 miles on it. I hope it's not anything major.


Drove it to work a few days and one morning in traffic, I accelerated and heard the valves clacking to beat the band. I thought it may have a timing issue. Drove it very easy. No heavy foot, nothing to upset the engine until I could spend some time investigating.

Two days ago I stopped at a store near my office and when I came out, it didn't want to start. It was chugging black smoke like a locomotive as I turned the key. I had to let the starter keep spinning the engine faster and faster while it tried to start and it eventually did. I let it idle a couple minutes and finished my drive to work.
That evening, it drove fine, but the SES light came on. I drove home since all gauges were normal.

Next morning, no light. Drove fine. Last night it drove fine. Still no SES. I exited the highway, drove a few miles and caught a red light. When it turned green, I stepped on the gas and it shut off. I could not get it to start unless I had the pedal to the floor and then I had to keep gunning it and it did that old "Fooob fooob foob" sound and stalled. I managed to cough and sputter and goose it to a closed business and that was that. No more starting no matter what.

[GTOguy]

What kind of truck is it?

[Aerovette]

What kind of truck is it?

1995 Z71 with a TBI 350.

[GTOguy]

That's actually a great truck and normally anvil-reliable. The TBI's basically never screw up. I think in 35 years of working on them I replaced maybe ONE injector. What does go bad is the electric in-tank fuel pump. The tend to buzz or whine for awhile before going out. Also the relay to the pump can fail. Sometimes it's ignition or ECM, but on your rig, most of the time, it's an expired pump. Easy to verify if you know what to check.
These trucks are well worth fixing and are simple and basic compared to the appliances that pass for vehicles today. I would hold onto it and keep it running.

[Mike Mercury]

https://cdn-acpnj.nitrocdn.com/SDkrhncnWeetGsYGlzwaPnbfptfOeIKk/assets/static/optimized/rev-00d8738/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/amazing-ford-hater-jokes.jpg





https://i.imgur.com/2N0J6iu.jpeg

[DJ_Critterus]

That's actually a great truck and normally anvil-reliable. The TBI's basically never screw up. I think in 35 years of working on them I replaced maybe ONE injector. What does go bad is the electric in-tank fuel pump. The tend to buzz or whine for awhile before going out. Also the relay to the pump can fail. Sometimes it's ignition or ECM, but on your rig, most of the time, it's an expired pump. Easy to verify if you know what to check.
These trucks are well worth fixing and are simple and basic compared to the appliances that pass for vehicles today. I would hold onto it and keep it running.

And check the temp sensor. It will send a shut off signal to the pump so you don't brick the engine during an over heat, but if they are faulty, they will send the signal even though it's not over heating or even showing that on the gauge.

[Aerovette]

And check the temp sensor. It will send a shut off signal to the pump so you don't brick the engine during an over heat, but if they are faulty, they will send the signal even though it's not over heating or even showing that on the gauge.

I have ZERO idea what the problem is BUT this seemed plausible to me.

Converter internals collapsed. Circular logic type failure whereby an O2 sensor adjusts timing causing detonation. Unburned fuel is being dumped into the messed up cats, further whacking out O2 until the system goes out of control and it can't run.

[Rodnok1]

Where's Gene at when you need him... :leaving:

[DAB]

“Now I am become Death, the destroyer of worlds”

-Robert Oppenheimer

[snide]

What kind of truck is it?

The kind that is allergic to styrofoam coolers. :yesnod:

[DJ_Critterus]

I have ZERO idea what the problem is BUT this seemed plausible to me.

Converter internals collapsed. Circular logic type failure whereby an O2 sensor adjusts timing causing detonation. Unburned fuel is being dumped into the messed up cats, further whacking out O2 until the system goes out of control and it can't run.

You could always put an OBDII scanner on it......

[Aerovette]

You could always put an OBDII scanner on it......

I don't have the right kind. It has the older connection. It's at a shop now so we'll see what they come up with.

[DJ_Critterus]

I don't have the right kind. It has the older connection. It's at a shop now so we'll see what they come up with.

Good move. You shouldn't be dealing with the electronics.

[GTOguy]

You could always put an OBDII scanner on it......

It's not OBDII. That came out in '96. It's got the 12-pin connecter under the dash where you jump two terminals with a paper clip, turn on the key, and count the light flashes. '12' means the system is working and will flash 3 times first, then the other code or codes will come in. It's actually easy to troubleshoot when you pull the codes. Not as 'precise' as OBDII, but with a DVOM test meter, not too bad.

[Aerovette]

Shop claims it's a bad distributor and coil.

$1300.00 to repair. Soooooo...

I'll have it towed to my house and I'll do it myself and save $1050.00

:seasix:

[Rodnok1]

Shop claims it's a bad distributor and coil.

$1300.00 to repair. Soooooo...

I'll have it towed to my house and I'll do it myself and save $1050.00

:seasix:

For 1300 I'd drive there do the work and still make 800 bucks easy. :kimblair:

[DJ_Critterus]

Shop claims it's a bad distributor and coil.

$1300.00 to repair. Soooooo...

I'll have it towed to my house and I'll do it myself and save $1050.00

:seasix:

Don't forget to pick up a good timing light while you're at the parts store :thumbs:

[Aerovette]

Don't forget to pick up a good timing light while you're at the parts store :thumbs:

I have a Sun.

[GTOguy]

Usually, the module or pickup coil in the distributor goes bad. Very rare for the ignition coil to go bad, but it happens. What I'm saying, is, the distributor AND coil to both be 'bad' is suspicious. (Unless it is the pickup coil in the distributor that is bad)

[Aerovette]

Usually, the module or pickup coil in the distributor goes bad. Very rare for the ignition coil to go bad, but it happens. What I'm saying, is, the distributor AND coil to both be 'bad' is suspicious. (Unless it is the pickup coil in the distributor that is bad)

The Delphi distributor was $209.00 and the coil is only $22.00 so the coil may not be bad, but $22.00 to remove it from the equation is worth it.

[John E]

Shop claims it's a bad distributor and coil.

$1300.00 to repair. Soooooo...

I'll have it towed to my house and I'll do it myself and save $1050.00

:seasix:

I almost posted yesterday - wrote it all out then deleted because symptoms sounded a little different, and I'm not sure of ignition similarity. Experience is from the L98 in my '87 cfer.

Died on the road, towed back to house. Finally tracked down to the coil lead. Not sure if this engine has same set up, but the coil was part of, or hidden under the distributer :shrug:. Not remembering exactly, but the broken "lead'' (one of 2) feeding the coil had broken. Could have actually even repaired it, but just replaced coil only. There was nothing wrong with the distributer at all. Maybe a lot less than $1k your cost (hoping anyway), I think the coil replacement was under $50 at that time. Best wishes Jeff
:cert: