In spite of my extreme prowess...

[Aerovette]

...in all things electronic and electrical, I need some assistance.

Challenge:

Program a relay to work from my key fob OR any fob.

Purpose:

I want to install a kill switch in a vehicle. I want my remote start to still work.

Plan:

Install a relay in the fuel pump circuit that would engage when the remote start sequence is enabled. It would NOT however, start with the key or start if the ignition was tampered with or bypassed. You would HAVE TO engage the relay or it will start and shut off once fuel in the line is gone.

I'd prefer to "teach" a relay to receive the signal from the original fob but I am willing to carry a second fob. The two fob system is easy. The one fob system is where I need help.

Thanks

Cliffs for the chicken:

Want a second relay installed. :D

[mrvette]

...in all things electronic and electrical, I need some assistance.

Challenge:

Program a relay to work from my key fob OR any fob.

Purpose:

I want to install a kill switch in a vehicle. I want my remote start to still work.

Plan:

Install a relay in the fuel pump circuit that would engage when the remote start sequence is enabled. It would NOT however, start with the key or start if the ignition was tampered with or bypassed. You would HAVE TO engage the relay or it will start and shut off once fuel in the line is gone.

I'd prefer to "teach" a relay to receive the signal from the original fob but I am willing to carry a second fob. The two fob system is easy. The one fob system is where I need help.

Thanks

Cliffs for the chicken:

Want a second relay installed. :D

Simple, need a circuit board that will accept a signal from another button on your remote.....program it in.....relay latches to turn on the fuel pump.......

I did that on my DPFI vette maybe 24? years ago....knock on wood, still on line.....:seasix:

[Aerovette]

Simple, need a circuit board that will accept a signal from another button on your remote.....program it in.....relay latches to turn on the fuel pump.......

I did that on my DPFI vette maybe 24? years ago....knock on wood, still on line.....:seasix:

Thanks but I already know WHAT needs to happen. The question is a "HOW question. Commercially available relay boards have their own fob. Not what I want.

[Rodnok1]

My remote starts have additional wires/options to turn stuff on probably could be used for such an endeavor. Once key was turned remote is useless though.
You'd have to wire it so it's only hot when controlled by remote but shuts off with key, which could be tricky since even FP relays are computer controlled. A kill switch is different in that you enable a circuit not control it remotely.
Controlling the ground circuit is easist for whatever relay you want to control remotely.

[99 pewtercoupe]

:seasix:

[DAB]

i have no idea how such magic happens.

[Rikki Z-06]

:seasix:



:funnier::funnier::funnier:

[ZipZap]

I would try and slave the relay off of the existing remote start circuitry, as opposed to try and create a "learning" piece. I don't have your schematics in front of me, of course, but I'm guessing that there is a line you could tap that is specific to the remote start for a secondary relay.

[Torqaholic]

Repurpose the trunk lid circuit? I hardly ever use that myself. Can be opened with manual switch on the inside or using the keyhole. Probably 3 different ways to open it is a bit of overkill.

[Stangkiller]

How about you stop leaving your truck in the hood? Maybe just put a manual flip switch under the dash or somewhere (glovebox?)

[Aerovette]

I would try and slave the relay off of the existing remote start circuitry, as opposed to try and create a "learning" piece. I don't have your schematics in front of me, of course, but I'm guessing that there is a line you could tap that is specific to the remote start for a secondary relay.

Interesting. I'm guessing that is not a schematic that is readily shared, since it would make stealing it easier. I'll poke around. :seasix:

Once it engages, it needs to stay latched until I turn the truck off.

[Aerovette]

How about you stop leaving your truck in the hood? Maybe just put a manual flip switch under the dash or somewhere (glovebox?)

It's Houston. Doesn't matter where it is.

Manual flip switch won't work with remote start feature. If I'm going to walk out to flip the switch, I'll just start it and go.

[ZipZap]

Interesting. I'm guessing that is not a schematic that is readily shared, since it would make stealing it easier. I'll poke around. :seasix:

Once it engages, it needs to stay latched until I turn the truck off.

Latching relay with battery power to keep it latched. I'd be surprised if the remote start circuit output is not in the schematics. The smarts are in the electronics that respond to the fob, not the lines that signal the starter. Probably need to take a signal level output and step it up for the fuel pump, but still easier than trying to decode the fob output and make something happen.

[Aerovette]

Latching relay with battery power to keep it latched. I'd be surprised if the remote start circuit output is not in the schematics. The smarts are in the electronics that respond to the fob, not the lines that signal the starter. Probably need to take a signal level output and step it up for the fuel pump, but still easier than trying to decode the fob output and make something happen.

It is the fob circuit I want to tap in to.

Here is the sequence I am envisioning. The fuel pump circuit has no power. I insert the key and the engine turns over and starts, THEN, because the fuel pump has not been engaged (via the fob) it burns the small amount of available gas and dies.

If I am going to drive, I would always use remote start and therefore always engage the fuel pump. Someone without my fob could not do this even if they had the key.

I can remote start because the newly installed fuel pump circuit relay responds to the fob.

Basically, if you have no fob, you go nowhere. Even if you have the key or rip out the key cylinder.

[04 commemorative]

It would be considered witchery :eek:

[Aerovette]

It would be considered witchery :eek:

Good thinking. I'm going to go ask the question on the Dungeons and Dragons forum. :seasix:

[NotSlo]

https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=190458

[ZipZap]

It is the fob circuit I want to tap in to.

Here is the sequence I am envisioning. The fuel pump circuit has no power. I insert the key and the engine turns over and starts, THEN, because the fuel pump has not been engaged (via the fob) it burns the small amount of available gas and dies.

If I am going to drive, I would always use remote start and therefore always engage the fuel pump. Someone without my fob could not do this even if they had the key.

I can remote start because the newly installed fuel pump circuit relay responds to the fob.

Basically, if you have no fob, you go nowhere. Even if you have the key or rip out the key cylinder.

I understand what you're trying to do. There's a signal that comes out of the remote start circuitry that triggers the ignition. Find that and tap off the line to drive a new relay that's in line with the fuel pump. The relay would need to be engaged for the pump to run, thus key start won't work. What I was trying to say is don't mess with the actual (RF) part of the remote start circuitry. It's likely a "black box" in the schematic with power coming in and signal lines coming out.

[Stangkiller]

Random thought, did your truck come with an available option that you don’t have…possibly a remote tailgate that was key fob operated? Perhaps the wiring is there that you could find/use, and just enable the feature via scan tool?

[Aerovette]

Random thought, did your truck come with an available option that you don’t have…possibly a remote tailgate that was key fob operated? Perhaps the wiring is there that you could find/use, and just enable the feature via scan tool?

No remote tailgate. However, now I am thinking about the remote start features that can be set up and wondering if that may be an option.

I can set certain things to come on when remotely started...such as the heated or cooled seats. If I were to use those to latch the fuel line relay, hitting remote start would engage the relay and turning the key off would open the relay. These features are not automatic when it is started with the key. Interesting. Thanks.

[dvarapala]

I'd prefer to "teach" a relay to receive the signal from the original fob but I am willing to carry a second fob. The two fob system is easy. The one fob system is where I need help.

Thanks

Simple, need a circuit board that will accept a signal from another button on your remote.....

I did that on my DPFI vette maybe 24? years ago....

24 years ago automotive remote entry fobs didn't use sophisticated encryption. The chances of aero using the existing key fob on any modern vehicle for his purposes are next to nil.

A second fob to trigger a relay is pretty trivial however: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1095

[Aerovette]

24 years ago automotive remote entry fobs didn't use sophisticated encryption. The chances of aero using the existing key fob on any modern vehicle for his purposes are next to nil.

A second fob to trigger a relay is pretty trivial however: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1095

Post 20, right above yours, is very feasible. :seasix:

[dvarapala]

Post 20, right above yours, is very feasible. :seasix:

So your heated seats have a small port on them labeled "plug in auxiliary relay here?" :shrug:

[Aerovette]

So your heated seats have a small port on them labeled "plug in auxiliary relay here?" :shrug:

What they have are strands of copper grouped together and coated with an insulating material. Both the copper and the jacket can be severed with a hand held cutting tool. The jacket can also be removed to expose the copper strands and allow a new connection of the same or similar type, to carry power from their original power source, to a secondary device, while still allowing a flow of power to the original device. :yesnod:

[snide]

What they have are strands of copper grouped together and coated with an insulating material. Both the copper and the jacket can be severed with a hand held cutting tool. The jacket can also be removed to expose the copper strands and allow a new connection of the same or similar type, to carry power from their original power source, to a secondary device, while still allowing a flow of power to the original device. :yesnod:

You sound like you almost know what you're talking about. :willy:

[Aerovette]

You sound like you almost know what you're talking about. :willy:

I made all that up. It was the best guess I could come up with after examining the smoldering blackness that was on my work bench. I'm more of a "forensic electrician" by nature. :D