Power Steering question

[Bob CTS]

I just replaced the power steering pump on a 1995 Chevy K1500 due to a leak. After I got everything installed I purged the lines and took it for a drive.

At idle there basically is no power steering, pick up the idle and it starts working, I did let the truck sit for an hour and tried it again and it was better and you could actually turn the wheel w/o giving it heck.

Is this because of air trapped in the system or could this be a crappy pump?

Thanks

[Uncle Pervey]

Sounds like air, check you reservoir if you see if you have a head of foam or a lot of bubbles. That's a sign that it still has air in it. It will eventually work its way out.
However that is assuming that you bought a good pump and not some rebuilt POS out of Mexico or China, if that's the case then it might never get better. :yesnod:

[Bill]

Sounds like air, check you reservoir if you see if you have a head of foam or a lot of bubbles. That's a sign that it still has air in it. It will eventually work its way out.
However that is assuming that you bought a good pump and not some rebuilt POS out of Mexico or China, if that's the case then it might never get better. :yesnod:

:iagree:

[mrvette]

Turn the wheel full right till the pump squeels, and full left, do this several times then let set overnight....

fire it up in the morning....full right/left against the stops....


bet the 'problem' is gawn....


air in the fluid gets to the surface of the reservoir tank....so not sucked onto the pressure lines....:cheers:

[C5Nate]

Rut- roh.......you didnt bleed the lines first. :slap:

How to Bleed
Step 1 Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to thepower steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system cancause metal to metal contact and damage.Step 2 Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod.

Step 3 Turn steering wheel fully to the left.

Step 4 Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off.

Step 5 Whith an assistant checking the fluid level and condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped, no fluid has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the reservoir or pump. Until this bubble passes, no fluid will circulate through the system.

— On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram assist you may need to cycle in excess of 40 times.
— Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir. Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow. Thoroughly clean any spilled fluid to allow for leak check.

Step 6 Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist.
— If you see any signs of bubbles, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above.
— Fluid level should be steady (Rock Ram’s level will vary slightly).

Step 7 Disable engine from starting. (Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems)
— Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid level drops, there is compressed air trapped in the system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable.
— If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minutes or more until dispersed air has time to accumulate and purge through the reservoir.

Step 8 Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible.

Step 9 (Removed, for hydro boost only)

Step 10 Enable engine to start. With engine idling, maintain fluid level.

Step 11 Reinstall reservoir cap.

Step 12 Return wheels to center.

Step 13 Lower front wheels to ground or reinstall pitman arm or tie rod if removed in Step 2.

Step 14 Run engine for two minutes. Turn steering wheel in both directions.

Step 15 Do not hold steering wheel against the stops.

Step 16 Verify the following conditions:
— Smooth power assist
— Noiseless operation
— Proper fluid level
— No system leaks
— Proper fluid condition
— No bubbles, foam, or discoloration

Step 17 If all conditions are satisfied, the bleeding procedure is complete.

[Bob CTS]

I followed most of C5Nate's procedure, the front end was in the air and I moved the wheels back and forth.

I started the engine and there was bubbles so air was in system due to not following the above procedure.

The second time I drove it there was no foam/bubbles in the fluid though it acted weird when sitting still and slowly rotating the wheel. Throughout the rotation the wheel would tighten.

Guess I will try it tomorrow and see what happens.

Yes this is a rebuilt pump, GM wants $440 for a new one. :leaving:

[lallend]

Check yer belt for tightness, glazing, cracking, slipping etc...

[Bob CTS]

Check yer belt for tightness, glazing, cracking, slipping etc...

replaced it with new pump