{DAB} want to save the original battery box for my 1905 Olds engine

[JRD77VET]

I have the original battery box for the 1905 Olds engine I just picked up. The joints are loose and a the front panel has come out.

Any suggestions for both putting it back together and cleaning it? I do NOT want to remove the original paint.

I will get more pictures when I bring it back on Saturday from Rough & Tumble.

Thanks
Jeff

[DAB]

Finger joints. Yay.

If a joint is loose, I'd take it apart, carefully clean up the joint, and re-glue it.

Good clamps will help.

[JRD77VET]

Finger joints. Yay.

If a joint is loose, I'd take it apart, carefully clean up the joint, and re-glue it.

Good clamps will help.

Extreme sarcasm in bold? Major league PITA?

Thanks :cert:

[DAB]

No. they are fairly strong joints.

If you plan to re-glue, you want to make sure old glue is removed. Glue sticks to wood, not old glue.

[Fasglas]

Finger joints. Yay.

If a joint is loose, I'd take it apart, carefully clean up the joint, and re-glue it.

Good clamps will help.

:iagree: Can't be too clean.

I believe this is a job for Cascamite One Shot. :yesnod:

[DAB]

???

New one on me?

Some sort of glue remover?

[Fasglas]

No, it's a powdered resin glue.

Made in the UK. ( POLYVINE UK)

Google - Cascamite One Shot

[DAB]

Now I learned something today.

I normally just use Titebond. Titebond 3 for projects that might get wet.

[simpleman68]

Now I learned something today.

I normally just use Titebond. Titebond 3 for projects that might get wet.

:yesnod: Titebond has always served me well although I got my first seam split on the bar top in the theater. :issues:

I bought HUGE Jorgensen clamps for that project.
Scott

[DAB]

when wood wants to move, it will move. you can clamp up two surfaces that don't perfectly meet, and make them bond with clamps, but if the wood decides to fight that effort, you will lose. care in wood preparation and joinery mating up front pays off down the road.

[simpleman68]

when wood wants to move, it will move. you can clamp up two surfaces that don't perfectly meet, and make them bond with clamps, but if the wood decides to fight that effort, you will lose. care in wood preparation and joinery mating up front pays off down the road.

Key words highlighted.

No doubt. We joined pieces from the same mill batch fine cut by the mill, let them settle in at room temps for over a week, used a good biscuit joiner, screwed it evenly to cabinet grade plywood from underneath, left it clamped for several days and the room is climate/humidity controlled. :needcoffee:

Scott

[JRD77VET]

Now that the engine is almost complete, it's time to work on the battery box.

Here's pictures from today. I also discovered letter on the front panel that reads National Coil manufacturers of Spark Coils
( darker red picture has been altered in Photobucket to be able to be read )

I also have the buzz box too

[OddBall]

:cool1:

[Kevin_73]

Now that the engine is almost complete, it's time to work on the battery box.

Here's pictures from today. I also discovered letter on the front panel that reads National Coil manufacturers of Spark Coils
( darker red picture has been altered in Photobucket to be able to be read )

I also have the buzz box too

If you can get a straight on shot of that lettering that is readable, and some measurements for me I can make a paint mask on my vinyl cutter for you.

:yesnod:

[JRD77VET]

If you can get a straight on shot of that lettering that is readable, and some measurements for me I can make a paint mask on my vinyl cutter for you.

:yesnod:

Thanks :cert: I will wait until the weekend and get a picture in sunlight. I had to play with the setting in Photobucket for the darker red version to be slightly readable.

[Kevin_73]

Thanks :cert: I will wait until the weekend and get a picture in sunlight. I had to play with the setting in Photobucket for the darker red version to be slightly readable.

I gave a try at tracing off the reddish picture, but there really isn't enough detail there on several of the letters to get the shape correct.

I will definitely need clearer pictures in order to trace the letters, or if somebody can find a font that matches it would give me a good starting place. I could get vectors of the font, then lay them over the picture and adjust to fit properly.

Any font geniusses out there know what it might be?

[DAB]

looks like standard stencil font.

https://qph.ec.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-ffb39232c6c4d9fc7e2562c93dc57e31?convert_to_webp=true

http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/attachments/off-topic/10248d1485131371t-dab-want-save-original-battery-box-my-1905-olds-engine-b33448a8-11ea-48b3-b32e-022d4013d562.jpg

:DAB:

[Kevin_73]

looks like standard stencil font.

https://qph.ec.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-ffb39232c6c4d9fc7e2562c93dc57e31?convert_to_webp=true

http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/attachments/off-topic/10248d1485131371t-dab-want-save-original-battery-box-my-1905-olds-engine-b33448a8-11ea-48b3-b32e-022d4013d562.jpg

:DAB:

That's close, but the R and the A are a little different. It is helpful to show what the S's might have looked like though.

:cert:

[DAB]

That's close, but the R and the A are a little different. It is helpful to show what the S's might have looked like though.

:cert:

if you don't see the original, you'll never know that the font isn't spot on. if this was a collector item, then you wouldn't touch it. but a gentle renovation can stand a small 'error'.

[Kevin_73]

if you don't see the original, you'll never know that the font isn't spot on. if this was a collector item, then you wouldn't touch it. but a gentle renovation can stand a small 'error'.

That's kind of my thought as well. I am tracing as much of the original as I can make out, then I will fill in the blanks with fonts that are a close match.
The ones you posted are pretty close. :yesnod:

[DAB]

That's kind of my thought as well. I am tracing as much of the original as I can make out, then I will fill in the blanks with fonts that are a close match.
The ones you posted are pretty close. :yesnod:

just did a quick google search on "stencil font". army standard for years.

i'd personally re-create the entire thing with one font, so it looks consistent.

[markids77]

I would clean up the old glue, reassemble the box and leave it in original paint. If bright color and sharp lettering are desired, reproduce the box and store the original.

[Mr Hole]

Kevin, might want to look here... Fancy > Stencil, Army fonts | dafont.com (http://www.dafont.com/theme.php?cat=114)

[JRD77VET]

All my local hardware stores did not have TiteBond Hide glue. I ordered it off ebay and it arrived Friday. Today I glued it back together. Luckily my nextdoor neighbor is into woodworking and I was able to borrow some clamps.

I sanded the areas to be glued with 80 grit emery cloth and then applied glue to both surfaces. So very gentle tapping to line up the joints and then clamped it up. :seasix: