View Full Version : Ch@0s Is Going LSX ... My swap
Here are the specs.
built/forged 5.3 347 iron block with 241 heads
MS3 cam
237/242, .603"/.609", 113 LSA
LS6 Intake
Wiring harness and PCM from a 99 Z28 tuned for the set up.
http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/members/ch%400s-albums-lsx+swap-picture980-lsx-front.jpg
http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/members/ch%400s-albums-lsx+swap-picture981-lsx-left.jpg
Vette Jockey
03-16-2011, 12:42pm
:drivingskid::thumbsup:
Midnight85
03-16-2011, 1:35pm
Congrats! I've wanted to do the same thing for years but $$$ just kept going elsewhere. Keep us posted w/pics.
Congrats! I've wanted to do the same thing for years but $$$ just kept going elsewhere. Keep us posted w/pics.
You bet! I got a good deal on it :dance:
This is an on going parts list. I will edit as I go along.
Engine, Ecu and wiring $1300
Transmission and converter $1750
Racetronix 255 Fuel pump kit $120
Speehound motor mounts $100
Advanced Adapters 4L60E to 700R4 tail shaft adapter $214
A/C compressor high mount adapter $150
Corvette power steering pump,bracket and pulley $140
Corvettte alternator $100
Powerbond balancer $145
98 Corvette Batwing oil pan and C5 manifolds $50
Oil pan gasket $50
Starter from fleabay $56
Balancer bolt $14 gm
Hoses, and fuse block $80.00
TB cable $50
Tuning $100
Two O2 sensors $120
wirring and terminals $60
Transmission cooler and lines $220
Fuel lines and fittings $70
Radom Tech Cat cons $200
I might need to get a couple of Dakota Digital boxes
A/C lines and Compressor
Spent $5089.00 and some of this stuff is optional.. for example you dont have to spend $550 on a converter
So far I have made $2945 to offset the cost from sales of my old stuff. I still have a few parts lying around.
That will make for one bad arse ride. I will be following this one. Good luck.
I picked up a few more things this week
Took a 3hr drive but it was worth it.
OEM exhaust and oil pan from a 98 vette. I'm not sure if the oil pan will work but it's worth a shot.
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=220&pictureid=672
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=220&pictureid=671
the transmission and a 3000 stall.
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=220&pictureid=673
Vette Jockey
03-21-2011, 11:40am
:popcorns:
mike100
03-21-2011, 5:51pm
what displacement is it? 327 c.i. or 347? you said it is a 5.3 lower end- I would be a little hesitant to go smaller cubes unless it spins to 7500 rpm.
what displacement is it? 327 c.i. or 347? you said it is a 5.3 lower end- I would be a little hesitant to go smaller cubes unless it spins to 7500 rpm.
It's a 5.3 iron block bored to a 347 c.i with ls1 241 heads. So it's basically an iron LS1. If it were a 5.3 i would think about a smaller cam. I may still do it to get better street manners. The fool in me says "NO"
The parts keep coming faster that i can work :lol:
Racetronix 255 pump kit and Speehound LS1 conversion mounts.
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=220&pictureid=684
Vette Jockey
03-23-2011, 12:24pm
:thumbs:
:thumbs:
:iagree:
:cool1:
:popcorns:
This is cool. :yesnod:
Subscribed.
You wouldn't think it takes 8 hrs to clean and paint an engine but it did. :yesnod:
I cleaned this thing with a wheel brush and tooth brush.What I couldn't reach with those I used a screw driver with a rag. I HATE CLEANING STUFF. I painted the valve covers coil brackets and fuel rail red to give it some spice. Now it's ready to drop in. :D
So tomorrow the short bock comes out.
Then I have to clean the engine compartment. :needcoffee:
Disregard the ugly truck pan its just there to keep stuff out.
http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/members/ch%400s-albums-lsx+swap-picture998-ls1-ready-go.jpg
http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/members/ch%400s-albums-lsx+swap-picture999-ls1-ready-go2.jpg
Wow, what a difference. A little cleaning and painting goes a long way. That looks great!!
I worked on the wiring all afternoon. The F-body wiring harness is designed to put the PCM in the pass side.I need to mount mine on the drivers side on top of the battery. My plan is to take the harness apart sensor by sensor following the wires to the PCM then labeling the pin location. All the wires on the drivers side are going to be proximately 10 inches too long. Those will be cut down and new terminals will be crimped on then they will be reconnected. The passengers side I will disconnect reroute and reconnect they should be perfect. In the processes of dis-assembly I will omit any sensor or wire I will not need. I will also hunt down the 12V commons.
The grounds I will be leaving alone so far they will ground in their original locations on the block.
http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/members/ch%400s-albums-lsx+swap-picture1003-wiring-left-side2.jpg
Better you than me, I'm not good with wiring. Looks like you've got is under control, looks good. :takdir:
Midnight85
04-05-2011, 7:38am
Looking good, can't wait to see the final product. I'm glad the wiring job is yours, I'd take one look at that and think that maybe my little L98 isn't so bad after all.
The only two things that I haven't quite figured out is how to get my A/C and ABS to tie in to the new PCM.
4L60E to 700R4 tail shaft adapter came in. :)
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=67502
I have been working on the harness. I need to order some wire and terminals. Looks like I will be adding length to the pass side. it's all routed and mocked up now. The Camaro harness really only had two connectors I did not need. The AIR and EGR.
Now that I have the PCM connectors off I need to sort through whats left. I have identified the 12V switched wires and plan on hooking them some where fused. The ignition and coil wired share a common 12v wire. I believe I will hook these up to inj1 and inj2 in the fuse panel.
Here is whats left.
Red Connector
9 DK/GRN FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL = not sure
10 WHT ENG SPEED (TACH) = goes to Tach
13 CRUISE ENABLE= not needed
17 DRK GRN/WHT A/C REQUEST SIGNAL = not sure
30 VDT FUEL ENABLE = VATTS
33 DK BLUE ENG COOLING FAN RELAY 2&3 CONTROL = to cooling fan relay 2
34 EVAP PURGE VALVE CONTROL= not needed
36 AIR PUMP RELAY CONTROL= not needed
37 DK GRN CRUISE CONTROL INHIBIT= not needed
43 DK GRN/WHT A/C CLUTCH RELAY RELAY CONTROL=not sure
45 WHT EVAP CANISTER VENT VALVE CONTROL= not needed
46 BRN/WHT MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT CONTROL= MIL ck eng light
50 DK GRN/WHT VEHICLE SPEED OUTPUT CIRCUIT= to speedo
17 DRK GRN/WHT A/C REQUEST SIGNAL=not sure
53 GRA/BLK SPARK RETARD CONTROL=not sure
54 PPL FUEL LEVEL SENSOR SIGNAL= not needed
64 DK GREEN FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR= not needed
Blue Connector
19 PNK IGNITION POS VOLT= to switched 12v
20 ORG BAT POS VOLT=to 12v
23 GRA FUEL SENSOR /FUEL TANK SENDER GROUND== not needed
33 PPL TCC BRAKE SWITCH= to brake switch
34 ORG/BLK PNP WITCH= to park neutral safety switch
42 COOLING FAN RELAY CONTROL= Cooling fan relay
Feel free to correct me or help me figure out the connections I'm not sure about.
My A/C high mount bracket came in. :thumbsup:
http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/members/ch%400s-albums-lsx+swap-picture1025-ac-ls1-bracket.jpg
Out with the old :D
Tomorrow I will test fit the LSX. :dance:
The PO must have taken the car to where Pete had his diff done the trans was on with an impact. I rounded off two bolts. It took me 4 hrs to get 6 bolts out. Then I took a bath in trans fuid. :lol:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=68847
I worked on it all day couldn't get it in. I realize if I'm going to use the batwing oil pan I will have to put it on after the engine is in.The F-body dampener is not going to work. I ordered some C5 accessories.
I picked up a Powerbond balancer today
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=69290
Post #4 is now a parts and cost list.
So far i have made $2705 to offset the cost from sales of my old stuff. I still have a few parts lying around.
I still need a few things.
I may miss some but here is a list of the top of my head.
TB cable
Tuning software
Two O2 sensors
wirring and terminals
IAC sensor
Transmission cooler
Fuel lines and fittings
I might need to get a couple of Dakota Digital boxes
a/c compressor and lines.
Too bad your not it Dallas instead of Houston. That would be a fun weekend trip to make. In fact we'll be there May 20-22 for the LSCC at the TMS.
Too bad your not it Dallas instead of Houston. That would be a fun weekend trip to make. In fact we'll be there May 20-22 for the LSCC at the TMS.
Cool if I have a chance i may come to say hi. Slim chance tho. :)
Midnight85
04-30-2011, 8:36am
It always pisses me off when I think I have a good estimate on what a project is going to cost me, then the little stuff damn near doubles the cost. Am I a poor planner or is this something others run into also?
It always pisses me off when I think I have a good estimate on what a project is going to cost me, then the little stuff damn near doubles the cost. Am I a poor planner or is this something others run into also?
I think its normal. To be honest I hate to plan it out and write in all down.You could end up talking yourself out of an oil change that way.
I don't sweat the little things in the end you really can't plan for the unforeseen.
The way I saw it my engine was going to be taken apart and taken to the machine shop and my transmission was toast needing a rebuild.
I would have needed,Bearings, cam lifters and a gasket set. With a tranny rebuild this it came close to 3K. So I thought well if I could sell all my stuff for 2k and spend another 2k I could do the LSX swap. :D
And that is how we the insane rationalize insane ideas. :yesnod:
BTW I still have the short block and tranny if i really wanted to i could sell those but I'm not sure about that yet.
It always pisses me off when I think I have a good estimate on what a project is going to cost me, then the little stuff damn near doubles the cost. Am I a poor planner or is this something others run into also?
Yeah, I agree. Also agree w/ Ch@os too. It would be easy to talk yourself out of it if you think about it. I think we tend to put a price on just the big items and not worry about the minor stuff until you have to start buying them and then it becomes obvious how much it costs. I spent nearly $200 in fluids alone w/ tranny, coolant and engine. And another$100 on sealers, engine lube, anti seize, loctite, etc. I also messed up with some of the used parts I tried to get away with. Some things you just need to buy new. And then when your adding hp you get caught up in the problem of upgrading the rest of the drive train. At some point "stock" seems to be just fine.:lol:
Oh yeah, since I live outside the city I'm betting I've paid no less than $300 in gas making trips to the parts store. I seem to have a memory malfunction and can only remember to get one thing at a time.
I finally had time to do some work.
I cleaned up the oil pan and painted the engine bay with POR-15 engine enamel.
That stuff works great. It also goes a long way. So far with a pint I have painted my HSR with 3 coats and the engine bay. I used a foam brush previously to paint with it but the engine bay tore up 4 of them before I switched to a regular paint brush. The paint brush made things very messy. I needed to get into a hard spot so used a 6" brush. Bingo!! the brush worked great, didn't make a mess and didn't hold much paint so it helped spread the paint better. I was about 25% done when I switched to the brush.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=69912
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=69911
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=69910
Ok, I have been waiting on pulley and pin kit all this time. They came in yesterday.
Today I pinned the balancer. I hope to have the engine back in for good within the next few days.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=70330
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=70329
A little more progress, yesterday I put the pan on. Now its ready to drop in.
Also received the Temp sender.
This is an older style sender machined to fit the LS1. This one will go in the Pass head and provide a signal to my temp gauge. The LS1 sender in the drivers side head will feed the ECM.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=70479
I worked on the TPI harness today. Here is what I did. I deleted the what is marked with an X and labeled everything else accordingly. I was very surprised when I pulled what I though was a bulkhead to find a pass through. Now I'm wondering whether I should follow the wires in the dash and take them out of their respective connectors or just leave them where they are.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=70639
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=70640
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=70642
nutz4c4
05-24-2011, 5:38pm
It might be benificial to remove the wires to aid in future troubleshooting...and to eliminate clutter and confusion :shots:
It might be benificial to remove the wires to aid in future troubleshooting...and to eliminate clutter and confusion :shots:
I'm thinking about taking them out of that connector and rolling them up inside the dash. In case I end up needing one or two.
nutz4c4
05-25-2011, 6:21pm
I'm thinking about taking them out of that connector and rolling them up inside the dash. In case I end up needing one or two.
Probably a good idea...Ya just never know
:hurray: looks good. Can't wait to see the final assembly. (Video)
:hurray: looks good. Can't wait to see the final assembly. (Video)
You just reminded me how long its been .. I need to get back to work. :)
It's too hot :eek:
So today I finally tackled the Wiring bulkhead. The plan was pull the wires I didn't need out of the bulkhead and drop them inside the car. Later when I redo the interior I was going to follow them inside and unpin. I had already cut the wires I dint need short to make the process easier.
I took the bulkhead apart separated the wires into keeping and deleting. I then started to pull the out of the wire separator that clips in the bulkhead. That's when I noticed allot of the wires had a twin. I remember thinking when I was cutting the wires I dint need out "why would all the sensor wires run inside when the ECM is in the engine compartment". I decided to get my meeter out and ck them.
I learned a lesson today, I could have kept my TPI harness intact and maybe sold it. Out of the 50 or so wires in the bulkhead that come from the ECM 30 are pairs that run in from the ECM go about 5" then loop back out of the bulkhead back into the engine compartment. When I was done only 4 wires went into the engine compartment that I didn't need. I put heat shrink on the ends and tucked them in the harness.
Here is a picture of some of the wires that loop back. You can see the sticky crap they seal the bulkhead with about half way.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=72293
This place offers good automotive grade wires in 5 foot minimum lengths and factory colors. They also offer high heat tape and loom.
EFI Connection - Item Details (http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/Wire.aspx)
These connectors will work with the LS1 ECM. There will be half as many solder joints by using these.
20ga wires --- 12084913-L Delphi Connection Systems Automotive Connectors (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12084913-L/?qs=DlE0rdXB%2fL1YJpinkVaLNA%3d%3d)
18ga wires --- 12084912-L Delphi Connection Systems Automotive Connectors (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12084912-L/?qs=DlE0rdXB%2fL2byF0%2f83wWTA%3d%3d)
The engine is finally in for good. I had to redo the wiring bulkhead because the engine was too close. The wires all had to be routed out of the top portion of the bulkhead to clear. Now I can start putting it together. :)
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=73532
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=73531
I test fit my manifolds this afternoon. They fit great, I was so happy I for got to take pictures. I did snap a few of them painted with POR-15 Manifold Grey.
I'm still not very sure about the color but I could always have them coated later.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=73595
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=73596
This weekend I installed my exhaust manifolds. They fit great!! the hardest part was figuring out what size the bolts were because I had none. I found an ACE hardware that had grade 8 flange head bolts 8mm X 1.25 X 30 with a 10mm head ..$1.20 each, they only had 8 so I have to wait a week for the other 4.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=74619
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=74621
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=74620
I worked really hard on the PS/Alt bracket today. Believe it or not the PS pressure line will bolt right up after you spend 2 hours tweaking it.:yesnod:
I used the closed end of a 17mm wrench and my bare hands to work it slowly in place. It takes time and patience not to kink it.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=74929
The bracket fit well it took 4 bolts 3 10X1.5 X70 MM flange head bolts I found at ACE hardware for 2.69 and one 10X1.5 X60 MM at the bottom 2.10. To hold the alternator in place I got 2 10X1.5 X100MM bolts and a couple of washers.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=74930
:thumbs: Dude your car is going to be awsome. Keep keeping us posted.
Ok, back to work. It took me a a while but I finally got the converter I needed.
Its a CDS 3500 built for N0S. I don't know if I ever mentioned this before but the long term plan is to spray a 100-150 shot on track days. I'm off this week we have a few things planned but otherwise its vette week.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=79821
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=79820
Vette Jockey
11-21-2011, 5:54pm
:thumbsup:
After 2 days of working on it pretty much non stop I have learned two things. One, Putting in a transmission with out a rack and only 13" off the ground is very hard. Two, I'm not as young as I once was. :)
I got the trans mission in place and I'm headed back to modify the C-beam. Its off by about a half inch. Here are a couple of pictures of the trans and one of the C-beam holes.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=79973
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=79972
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=79971
mike100
11-23-2011, 7:30pm
^^^ so about the width of the adapter plate it seems.
It's in!! Right now the Engine, transmission, C-beam, and rear end are mated and everything looks good. This for me is a mile stone. I need to install the drive shaft but I don't see this will be a problem at all. I only had to elongate the C-beam mounting holes .25 inches.
My goal for this week was to be at this point. This weekend I can finally start working on extending my wiring. I'll take some pictures Saturday we are out of town until then.
Today I learned the C-beam and drive shaft have to be installed together. :)
I took the C-beam out to clean it up. I them put it back and could not install the drive shaft. So then I took the C-beam out and put in the drive shaft and could not install the C-beam. Finally i put the C-beam in place and moved it over until I had enough room to install the drive shaft then bolted the C-beam in place.
The exhaust lines up pretty good. It looks like the Left/drivers will need to be cut down a little. If I could get a hold off some 98 corvette exhaust the first couple of feet I will be in business.
The last picture is the cats I will be using. They will have to be cut down.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=80214
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=80213
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=80212
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/picture.php?albumid=10147&pictureid=69496
I have been working on the wiring most of the day. I mocked it up and to my surprise I only need to extend about 20 wires. :)
I the picture what is circled in red will reach. The bundle in yellow will not.
Ok, back to work :)
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=80529
I'm almost done with the harness.Big props to the wife for letting me turn our workout room into the harness room for the week.I need to extend the wires that were to short and figure out what to do with the 12V commons. I picked up the PCM end of a late model truck harness so I can extend the 19 wires and only have one solder point and hopefully match the colors perfectly. :)
My mess
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=80542
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/LURK.gif
Great write up... Enjoying......
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/LURK.gifWTF :lol:
Great write up... Enjoying......
Thanks bud :)
I found an awesome site C4 Vette wiring diagrams
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/display/tech/Wiring+Diagram+-+L98+Engine+1985-1991+%28GFCV%29#WiringDiagram-L98Engine1985-1991%28GFCV%29-L98enginewiringdiagrams19901991
And posted by LS1MCSS .. a very valuable resource
schematics - LS1TECH (http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1127217-schematics.html)
I decided to take a break from the harness today and go shopping. I went to 3 parts houses an found this.
Dayco hoses E80418 and E80406
Dorman fitting for the steam line 785-400
ATC fuse block 5171571.
I'm going to run a fuse link to the fuse block and put it right behind the battery. I will post pics up when done. I also test fit the lines cutting off about 1.5" and they fit nicely.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=80695
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=80696
The LS1 harness is done. I need to connect 6 12+ ING wires to the fuse block I bought and splice the wires that will be connecting to the C4 harness. I still haven't decided what type of loom I will be using. I plan on leaving the harness as is until I have worked out all the kinks. Note I left the labels on the wires I extended and labeled the end if I made a mistake I will be able to tell when the labels don't match.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=80730
Let's talk about the fuel lines. :D
I ordered a Wix 33737, C5 fuel filter kit from Nook and Tranny(part# KIT-NATFFFLS1) and a an-6 3/8 quick connect for the fuel rail(part #644123) I accidentally ordered 2 but only need one.
I also had 16MM to an-6 fitting that were on my car before. I put on the return and supply hard lines.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=81008
This is how it fit. So I will use a an-6 Coupler then mount the filter where it sits and
measure my lines and order them premade. I might have to alter the heat shield but it fits in the same spot the old filter was.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=81009
The C5 filter has an internal regulator. Only one line goes to the fuel rail. After looking at options as far as Teflon hoses go I decided to make my own.
FYI: you need Teflon hoses otherwise they will leak. Look for PTFE lines when ordering. :cheers:
Today was CK your work day. I consider this to be very important when working on wiring. Using a meter I checked all the wires for continuity and also checked that they were in the right pin location. Some of the wire colors are similar and its easy get them confused. I'm glad I did, I had two wires crossed and deleted a wire I needed. The Red 50 goes to the C4 wiring harness it needs to be connected to PCM/CCM Radio and the speedo wires on the C4 harness. oops :)
BTW Do not Delete the B8 PCM/CCM wire from the C4 harness you will need this.
I have 6 wires left that are ignition 12v:
2 from coil and injectors right and left.these will be connected to NJ1 ans INJ2 wires that fed my injectors before, they are fused.
2 O2 right and left they will go to the new fuse panel with 20 amp fuses.
12V to transmission and MAF will also go to new fuse panel I need to look up the fuse size.
I have 9 wires left from the PCM connectors.
Blue connector:
19 ign 12 volt switched.
20 battery always hot.
42 Cooling fan Control 1 to primary cooling fan relay.
57 battery positive always hot.
58 serial data to OBD 2 port #2
Red connector:
R9 fuel pump relay control to FP relay.
R10 Tach to Tach :)
R33 Cooling fan Control 2 and 3 to secondary cooling fan relay.
R50 VSS output to PCM/CCM and Speedo wires.
Heres the finished product I just need to order a little loom. :)
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=81486
Vette Jockey
12-27-2011, 1:37pm
WOW! Great job :seasix: :popcorns:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/LURK.gif
Vette Jockey
01-24-2012, 7:05pm
:popcorns:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/LURK.gif
:popcorns:
I haven't touched the car in two weeks. I have however been planing and sourcing more parts. The last piece I ordered arrived today. I'm hoping to be able to spend all day on it Sunday.
I ordered
Straight Thermostat Housing for LS1 it allowed the use of a standard T-stat From CSR.
Lokar SS braided throttle cable from Jegs.
PS reservoir from TPI parts.
OBDII and VSS connectors from EFI connection.
C5 exhaust flanges from Vette Works.
Teflon SS black Fuel Line and fittings from ANfittingsdirect.
Denso O2 sensors from Rock Auto.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=82918
I just have to say the guys at the local parts store have been great. I spent a some time looking at the radiator hoses behind the counter. Wow there are hundreds of hoses back there. After coming up empty I looked on the intraweb :)
I realized the stock C4 hose is the right shape and only needs like 5 inches to be perfect. With that in mind I searched for a 20" hose. I found this dayco hose #71981.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/DAC-71981.jpg
Hopefully i can pick one up locally tomorrow.
The stock bottom hose fit just right I cut off the 90 and it works nicely with my new housing.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=83016
I spent 3 days after work looking at racks of hoses and no dice. We cross-referenced the dayco part# ordered an upper hose for a 98-02 Z28 and it fit perfectly. I also realized the heater hose that goes to the coolant reservoir is tapered at the end. I ordered a 91 stock hose I hope it works. If not I will have to fab one up. You guys with 89 or order Vettes are lucky. :)
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=83303
I also put in my new Racetronix 255 pump. This kit is great and complete. It came with everything and some nice SS screws. :)
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=83304
The stock 91 hose from the coolant res to the WP worked great. My heater/radiator hoses are done with the exception of the steam line. I was going to mod the pump but I have decided to put a T in the line going to the radiator from the coolant res.
I have been away for business for a few days but look what I found upon my return. :)
B&M trans cooler hose and fitting and stainless Random Tech front Y with cats designed for the 97-99 C5 should bolt straight up to my manifolds. I hope i dont have to cut them up to fit. Cross your fingers.
I need to get to work.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=83544
After about of week of trial and error I got my fuel lines done. :)
I flipped the fuel filter bracket and it bolted up almost where the stock filter went.I used 2 Aeroquip 90s and a union to connect the return line. I used one Aeroquip straight union for the main line. The fuel line to the rail was only a couple off feet long and runs nicely tucked against the frame rail. I'm going to clamp it in place when I run the trans cooler lines Sunday .. On a side note I was very impressed with the new style Russel quick connect to -6 AN connector. It actually screws in. I may go back and change the 2 on the filter later.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=83949
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=83950
I finished running the Transmission cooler lines yesterday. It fit nicely in between the A/C condenser and the radiator. I positioned it in front of my auxiliary fan.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=84039
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=84040
Vette Jockey
02-20-2012, 3:32pm
I finished running the Transmission cooler lines yesterday. It fit nicely in between the A/C condenser and the radiator. I positioned it in front of my auxiliary fan.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=84039
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=84040
:popcorns:
So I got under the car with my new cats today made made some calculations. Looks like I will end up cutting them like this and it will be a straight shot to the exhaust. Tomorrow, to the fab shop.
http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/members/ch%400s-albums-lsx+swap-picture1328-cats-cut.jpg
I spent the day working on the car. Most of the time I spent trying to make the stock trans dipstick fit. I tried taking of the mounting tab off but in the end I kinked it and it's ruined now. I'm going to order a lokar trans and oil dipstick.
I got all the accessories on now. :)
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=85835
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19886&pictureid=85836
Today I installed the Lokar throttle cable. It was a pain I had to remove the drivers seat.
This first picture is the stock cable and the Lokar notice the black clip on the stock cable. You are going to want to replace the Lokar clip with it so cut your cable and replace it. You will thank me later.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86277
You will notice in this pic I have replaced the clip and added 2 washers. The washer on the outside is a hair bigger. On the inside there is insulation around the cable so i used a washer that was just big enough to fit in the opening.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86279
The cable fits nicely in the F-body bracket.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86278
Vette Jockey
04-05-2012, 12:08pm
:popcorns:
:popcorns:
LOL here ya go:
I know you thought the manifolds were bolted up but they were just mocked up with no gasket. I took them off today and installed the Lokar oil and trans dipsticks and put them back on.
I also drilled some holes in the frame and put clamps on the transmission lines. I am not happy with the Lokar transmission line it does not like to bend. I will need to make some kind of bracket later and put it in a location where it will work better. I removed my old valve covers and replaced them with some powder coated covers. they were painted but were already starting to discolor.
Lets talk about brakes now.. I lucked out and ran into a good deal on some Baer brakes drilled and slotted rotors and ss brake lines. So tomorrow I will take a break.. an do the brakes. :)
Here are some pics.
Old vs new valve covers:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86367
The Lokar dipsticks installed:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86368
The Baer Calipers, Kinetic rotors and Goodridge SS brake lines:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=20121&pictureid=86275
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/picture.php?albumid=12490&pictureid=108172
So I thought I was going to just upgrade my barkes and rotors but its never that simple. :)
I spent most of the day Saturday and every evening after work cleaning my suspension it was filthy. I'm surprised how long it took to clean it all up. I used dawn and a brass brush.
Here is the Old set up. Notice the black gunk just above the rotor. This is what the entire knuckle looked like. YUK!
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86610
Here is one side done.. and don't worry I'm using my old pads for now to take care of the over spray and then going with new pads after a couple hundred miles.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86611
I tapped my WP today. I was going to run a T to the radiator but once done i didn't like the way it looked. I ordered a 1/4 NPT 90 and Tap. I drilled a pilot 1/4 hole then 5/16 ending with 7/16 hole. I then used a 1/4 NPT tap. In the first picture you can see I put a hose in the water neck with a vacuum taped to it. This keeps the shavings from falling into the WP. Tomorrow I will get a hose hooked up and we are one step closer.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86850
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=86851
Vette Jockey
04-18-2012, 12:56pm
:seasix:
nutz4c4
04-24-2012, 3:46pm
After the swap is finished will you have to worry about under hood heat when parked???
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg81/mikemark/Funny%20stuff/TurquoisePopCorn.gif
JK...:cert: Bump
After the swap is finished will you have to worry about under hood heat when parked???
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg81/mikemark/Funny%20stuff/TurquoisePopCorn.gif
JK...:cert: Bump
:lol:
I'm going to put a rotisserie in the garage and turn my car upside down when I park so the heat will dissipate.
nutz4c4
04-28-2012, 6:43am
:lol:
I'm going to put a rotisserie in the garage and turn my car upside down when I park so the heat will dissipate.
Pics are required...:lol:
spent the afternoon buttoning under the hood. All lines are back on. The coil brackets and coils are back on and the right coil bracket has clearance to fit.
Tomorrow I will finally bolt up the exhaust for the last time.
The right coil bracket was touching the fire wall. I took the edge off with a cut off wheel and it fits nicely now.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=87409
My intention was to bolt up the exhaust on Saturday but i got under the car and realized I needed to run the trans harness back before could bolt up the exhaust. As a result the Wiring harness is now in place. ;)
It all lined up very well now I need to wire it up. One cool thing is the Camaro oil sensor and C5 oil temp sensor plugged right in to the C4 harness.
I needed to find a place for my IAT. I also needed to plug the hole in my SLP claw where the AIR is plumed on an LT1. I took a 5/16 drill bit and drilled a hole in a rubber plug the with a round file I worked it until it fit snug. Rubber will tear when you drill it. I also had to flip the MAF on its side it was rubbing the radiator hose.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=87495
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=87496
With that out of the way I worked on my exhaust most of the day unfortunately I will need to take the drivers side cat out and have the cat moved forward a bit it rubs the floorboard.
Pass:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=87494
Drivers:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=87493
I am about to start on the wiring I will be documenting as I go along. Enter at your own risk.
My 91 alternator is a 3 wire set up:
Red is hot 16ga to a fusible link
Brown is the light
pink/blk 12V exciter
The Corvette LS1 is:
S 16ga RED Battery Positive Voltage
F 18ga GRY Generator Field Duty Cycle Signal
L 18ga RED Generator Turn On Signal
Soooo..
Red 91 16ga wire to 16ga RED Battery Positive Voltage on LS1
Brown 91 wire to F 18ga GRY Generator Field Duty Cycle Signal
The pink/blk 91 wire is not used
The wire from the old Camaro plug goes to L 18ga RED Generator Turn On
I trimmed the 91 PCM tray and with the LS1 PCM mocked up I have almost an inch of clearance from the hood. With the inner fender off I put a one inch spark plug box on top for reference. I'm thinking of welding a couple of studs to the cover(it comes off and is metal) to secure it to the tray.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=87875
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=87876
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=87877
I spent most of the day doing the wiring. I wired the LS coils/Injectors to the original L98 INJ1 and INJ2 circuits.The wires from the old L98 harness to the LS PCM have been extended. Th grounds are hooked up and the 12V switched have been wired to a fuse block I screwed in under the drivers side hood latch frame rail. I figured its protected from something randomly dropped in the engine bay and the weather there.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=25266&pictureid=89240
Here is a condensed version of all my notes. As far as the wiring goes its all done except for the OBDII port.
L98 ECM To LS1 PCM
C6 TPI PCM ground-----------------------------B1,B10,R1,R40 LS1 PCM ground
A3 secondary cooling fan DK blue/white ---------R33 cooling fan 2 relay
A9 primary cooling fan Lt blu/blk-----------------B42 cooling fan 1 relay
D7 fuel pump realy drive green/white-----------R9 Fuel pump relay control
B3 diagnostic test terminal White/blk-------------B58 class 2 serial (unpinned from TPI ALDL to LS ALDL)
B5,B11 serial data Tan---------------------------B14 ?UART 800 bus serial? (this may not work)
B6 VATTS DK/Blue -----------------------------R30 Fuel enable
B8 PPM CCM radio DK Grn/white------------------R50 Vehicle speed output
B10 12 V Ignition feed PNK/BLK-------------------B19 ignition pos volt
C1,B17 constant 12V ORG -----------------------B20,B57 constant 12V to PCM
D11 Neutral Safety Switch ORG/BlK---------------B34 PNP switch signal
Purple wire from brake switch--------------------B33 TCC brake switch
B1 black/white SES light -------------------------R46 Malfunction Indicator Lamp
White wire that went to Tach filter-----------------R10 Tach
Save INJ1 and INJ2 from TPI and connect to Pink wires on LS harness Coil/Injector drives 1 and 2
And here sits My LSX ready to run when I get my oil sender adapter. The PCM fit nicely I plan on repining the wires some day and organize them better. I also need to either replace the cheap fuse box with something better or solder it all to a fuselink once I know its working.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=24801&pictureid=89544
Here it is guys I started it up for a few seconds. I know there is an exhaust leak. .Sorry about the video quality.
For some reason my oil gauge is pegged. It's running rich and the Ck eng light is on.
But "Number 5 is alive"
C4 Corvette LSX swap first start - YouTube
nutz4c4
06-22-2012, 4:29am
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg81/mikemark/Funny%20stuff/cowboydance.gif
The last of the wiring is done now. I just need to figure out why the oil gauge is pegged.
On the left the OBDI ALDL on the right the OBDII ALDL.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=25266&pictureid=89980
I only cut one wire out of the OBDI it was meant to go to B3 on the L98 PCM and was the air pressure monitor wire. My VEH does not have air pressure monitor so I used this wire to feed the new OBDII port serial data to pin 2. Pins 4 and 5 I spliced into the OBDI ALDL ground ..they share that now. Pin 16 on the OBDII ALDL went to a 12 V constant.
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT-lSLUgki_0wrF16eGnItZijiVyrVQyHC38dSTEbW4RFtGoqXWONWLTGRz
My fans are now working and the only Code that remains after running the car through one heat cycle is P0425 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Low. That is emissions related and just need to be deleted out of the tune. It is still running a little rich and I suspect it just needs to be tuned better. Now that I have a scan tool I can tell my Tach is working perfectly. The funny thing is my Tach has always read high almost 25%..:lol:
This afternoon I am going to drop it and try to take it for a Spin. :)
I started this thing a month a go and the next week a tuner came over. He said my KPA was at 90+ all the time and it was going in and out of closed loop at idle. I also broke a valve spring at idle while he was tuning it. Thanks to 85miketpi and the guys at the HP tuners I was told to look for a vacuum leak. I was inspecting the back of the intake looking for a crack when I found I had nothing connected to the nipple right under the MAP. :bang:
The Spring was another story I spent a few days trying to figure out what kind of spring was in the car. The best we can figure (everyone I talked to and myself) It looks like the PO/builder used only the outside spring of a dual spring set up in order to avoid changing the seats and seals. Pretty stupid if you ask me. I ordered a new set of duals and have half of them in right now.
Pic of the broken spring
http://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=20121&pictureid=91835
I never addressed the cluster or CCM issue. So the cluster works but my oil is pegged and the temp sender is off (too high) by like 30 degrees.I'm having to rebuild the trans right now and then I will probably go with a 98 sender for the temp and figure out what to do with the oil sender. I'm thinking the wire could be pinched.
The buss feed from the LS1 PCM to the L98 CCM did not work. I will have to go with out ABS and maybe cruise but I don't mind. In hind sight I could have kept the original L98 ECM to feed the CCM easily but I don't regret getting rid of it.
However... this is still a work in progress so who knows.
Its done
LSX vette on the road 1 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=gW0-oOgSvto#t=0s)
LSX Corvette driving - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BI-Ak9CyGnw#t=0s)
Its done
LSX vette on the road 1 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=gW0-oOgSvto#t=0s)
LSX Corvette driving - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BI-Ak9CyGnw#t=0s)
Sounds really good, congrats man!!!!
I need to replace a shift solenoid but here is a little teaser.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6hnkvCMRm_U
I have been having trouble getting the Veh into gear. I have to wiggle it around until i find the gear I need. After speaking with Shiftworks it looks like the problem is the shift lever radius. The 4l60E is about 1/2 inch longer.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/members/ch-0s-318974-albums-temp-12490-picture-img-20130915-00543-153621.jpg
The shifter was fixed I have been driving the car and it is awesome. I can never say the car is completely done but the swap is a success.
Here is a dyno video I put down 391 RWHP.
For reference my buddy's stock A4 ss 4th gen put down 279 In the second video.
91 LSX C4 corvette MS3 Cam LS swap - YouTube
Dynoday 6 28 14 - YouTube
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