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Old 02-21-2012, 06:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default This thread is for gardeners only!

It's early in the season, but I already have my vegetable seeds and have laid out my garden. To remind folks, my garden is in raised planters:





That's not all of them; I have 7-4'x8' planters and 3-4'x12 planters, about 370 s.f. in all. I can grow sweet corn, beans, okra, tomatoes, zucchini, Winter squash, peppers, greens (turnip, kale, and collards), soybeans, asparagus, etc. I also have a mini-orchard with apples, pears, plums, peaches, pomegranate, blackberrues, raspberries, and blueberries (lots of blueberries--12 plants).

This year I bought a loquat tree and a pineapple guava shrub. Loquats aren't grown much here (Southeast), more popular in California and Florida, although they're hardy in Zone 8. Same for the guava. Anyone have experience in growing these? What do you think of loquat fruit? Are guavas truly self-fertile? I've heard conflicting info.

The rule for garden planting here is after Easter Sunday. That's Apr. 8 this year, so I should be growing stuff earlier than usual. When can you plant? Whatcha planting? Have any fruit trees?
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I need to know what to do to get potatoes to grow here.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm not gonna have one this year. Tired of feeding stinkbugs.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cut back the rose bushes last week so they should look like this sometime in April.

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Old 02-21-2012, 06:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Got the tomato plants going inside here. Heirlooms from seed. I will harden them off early April. As far as the rest. I have not decided yet.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lspencer534 View Post
??
Wow, you must live down south to have a garden that far this early.

I have a few apple trees and a huge herb garden and a bed of strawberries, but have not decided what I will plant this year. The Hermitage (home of Andrew Jackson) is about 2 miles from the house and they have a nice heirloom vegetable plant sale each year and I am always trying something new from his garden.

I suppose I have ~3 weeks before I start planting here.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I haven't even ordered vegetable seeds yet, though I do have a lot collected from the last harvest. Can't start too early here, possible to still get frost as laste as first or second week of May. I generally start germinating in March and grow the sprouts on the front porch until it's warm enough to transplant. So about another month. Probably order the seeds this week.

I planted fruit trees last Spring. They're a year old now. It's been a mild Winter, they'll probably be fine this Spring. Two paw-paw trees (cross fertilize) and a Danube cherry tree. Planning to plant more trees this Spring. Probably a few apple trees (already have pear trees) but what I really want to get going is some pecan and hazelnut trees. My grape plants are also a year old now. I'm growing for both red and white wine.

I don't garden from boxes, turned practically the whole back yard (double lot) under starting about 4 or 5 years ago. Then Last Fall I bought 2 empty lots adjoining my property. Will be putting in the new trees there. Need a chainsaw to do whack out some of the trash trees and open up some more Sunshine. That will keep me real busy.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 78SA View Post
I need to know what to do to get potatoes to grow here.
1
Buy seed potatoes from a nursery or catalog. Started potato plants are rarely, if ever, sold in nurseries.

2
Choose a site that gets full sun and has light, well-drained soil that's high in phosphorus and potassium and very low in nitrogen (which encourages lush foliage growth at the expense of the tubers). If your soil is very heavy, grow your potatoes in raised beds.

3
Dig the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches and remove rocks and other debris that could obstruct the tubers as they grow. Work in plenty of compost to ensure the right soil texture, but avoid adding manure, which can cause a disease called scab.

4
Plant potatoes in USDA zone 6 and colder two to four weeks before the last expected frost and when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees F. In zones 7 and 8, plant anytime from early February to March, choosing varieties that will mature before the hot days of summer. Farther south, plant around the end of September for harvesting in December and January.

5
Plant 2-inch-diameter, "B" size (the most common) seed potatoes whole. If you get larger ones, cut them into pieces with two or three eyes each.

6
Use the deep-planting method for the lowest-maintenance potato patch: Simply plant the seed pieces, cut side down, 12 inches apart and 7 to 8 inches deep. The stems will work their way to the surface, along the way forming spuds on underground stems called stolons.

7
Use the mulching method for the easiest harvesting: Dig a shallow trench and set in the pieces, cut side down, 12 inches apart, and cover them with about 4 inches of soil. Pile a thick blanket of mulch around the stems when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, leaving the foliage exposed. Keep mulching as the plants grow. The potatoes will form inside the layer of mulch.

8
Harvest small, early potatoes as soon as seven to eight weeks after planting. Harvest the main crop about two weeks after the tops have died back and before the first hard frost.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dixievet View Post
Wow, you must live down south to have a garden that far this early.

I have a few apple trees and a huge herb garden and a bed of strawberries, but have not decided what I will plant this year. The Hermitage (home of Andrew Jackson) is about 2 miles from the house and they have a nice heirloom vegetable plant sale each year and I am always trying something new from his garden.

I suppose I have ~3 weeks before I start planting here.
Yep, I live in the South, growing zone 8. However, it can be perilous growing fruit and a garden here. All too often we get a frost after stuff is growing/blooming, which kills production. Two years ago we had snow in mid-April.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Torqaholic View Post
I haven't even ordered vegetable seeds yet, though I do have a lot collected from the last harvest. Can't start too early here, possible to still get frost as laste as first or second week of May. I generally start germinating in March and grow the sprouts on the front porch until it's warm enough to transplant. So about another month. Probably order the seeds this week.

I planted fruit trees last Spring. They're a year old now. It's been a mild Winter, they'll probably be fine this Spring. Two paw-paw trees (cross fertilize) and a Danube cherry tree. Planning to plant more trees this Spring. Probably a few apple trees (already have pear trees) but what I really want to get going is some pecan and hazelnut trees. My grape plants are also a year old now. I'm growing for both red and white wine.

I don't garden from boxes, turned practically the whole back yard (double lot) under starting about 4 or 5 years ago. Then Last Fall I bought 2 empty lots adjoining my property. Will be putting in the new trees there. Need a chainsaw to do whack out some of the trash trees and open up some more Sunshine. That will keep me real busy.
You're in a perfect climate for cherry, apple. and pear trees. Here in the South we're hampered by having to use varieties that require few chilling hours (less than 400). Pawpaws do fine as far North as Zone 5. Pecans trees require extensive spraying to get a good crop, although I have 3 and never spray them. I know nothing about hazelnut trees. My walnut tree I planted 5 years ago was 5' tall; it's still 5' tall.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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did you mention gardening...




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Old 02-21-2012, 07:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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did you mention gardening...




So...you're going green?
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lspencer534 View Post
1
Buy seed potatoes from a nursery or catalog. Started potato plants are rarely, if ever, sold in nurseries.

2
Choose a site that gets full sun and has light, well-drained soil that's high in phosphorus and potassium and very low in nitrogen (which encourages lush foliage growth at the expense of the tubers). If your soil is very heavy, grow your potatoes in raised beds.

3
Dig the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches and remove rocks and other debris that could obstruct the tubers as they grow. Work in plenty of compost to ensure the right soil texture, but avoid adding manure, which can cause a disease called scab.

4
Plant potatoes in USDA zone 6 and colder two to four weeks before the last expected frost and when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees F. In zones 7 and 8, plant anytime from early February to March, choosing varieties that will mature before the hot days of summer. Farther south, plant around the end of September for harvesting in December and January.

5
Plant 2-inch-diameter, "B" size (the most common) seed potatoes whole. If you get larger ones, cut them into pieces with two or three eyes each.

6
Use the deep-planting method for the lowest-maintenance potato patch: Simply plant the seed pieces, cut side down, 12 inches apart and 7 to 8 inches deep. The stems will work their way to the surface, along the way forming spuds on underground stems called stolons.

7
Use the mulching method for the easiest harvesting: Dig a shallow trench and set in the pieces, cut side down, 12 inches apart, and cover them with about 4 inches of soil. Pile a thick blanket of mulch around the stems when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, leaving the foliage exposed. Keep mulching as the plants grow. The potatoes will form inside the layer of mulch.

8
Harvest small, early potatoes as soon as seven to eight weeks after planting. Harvest the main crop about two weeks after the tops have died back and before the first hard frost.
That means no taters for me.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That means no taters for me.
If you have clay in your soil, then you're right. You can go to raised planters. but you'd need a lot of area. What kind of soil do you have, anyway?
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I love digging for taters. It's like finding buried treasure!
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I grew a big potato crop a couple years ago. Grubs got about 20% of it. They don't seem to bother anything else so rather than treating for grubs I just buy the potatoes in the store. They don't cost much and I can use the garden space to grow other things. Thinking about trying peas this year for the first time.

Put in 3 rows of strawberries last spring, got a couple throughout the growing season, mostly pinched the flowers off. Hoping to get a lot of them this year.
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:29 AM   #17 (permalink)
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That means no taters for me.
They can be grown in containers.
I haven't tried it yet, but it's on my list.

LINK
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:42 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Nothing doing here in SW U.K. ....Way too cold yet . All i got is young cabbages grown from some plants i let go to seed last year . As you can see , my patch isn't very big and nearly a third of it is raspberries - -but it's more for fun than produce ..

Ain't cabbage flowers pretty ..




Quote:
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I love digging for taters. It's like finding buried treasure!
I know what you mean .. . As a kid i used to help pick them for a local farmer --- back-breaking work and the 112lb sacks were a killer .
I doubt any kids today know what a 1cwt sack looks like ..

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Old 02-22-2012, 08:55 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Several times I tried to grow tomatoes,just before they get ripe,the whole bottom rots.I give up.
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:49 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Several times I tried to grow tomatoes,just before they get ripe,the whole bottom rots.I give up.
I've got some good news for you: Your tomatoes have something called "blossom end rot". It's easy to cure; buy a spray made especially for that, and you'll have healthy tomatoes. The condition is caused by a calcium deficiency. Add calcium to your soil before planting (eggshells or store-bought calcium).
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